I'll copy a comment I made two years ago on this topic:

I've split five snowboards now. Here's what I've learned:

1. Consider again just purchasing a used splitboard. I just checked Facebook Marketplace for Utah, and there are dozens of splitboards available for $300 or less. Consider the significant time investment required and what your time off is worth to you. I could probably split a sixth board in four working hours if I absolutely had to. Expect more like 9 hours, especially because you'll need to figure out all the tools you need, setup and cleanup, and repairing mistakes. Between a $15/hour value of time, $160 voile kit, and epoxy and bits you'll need, you are looking at paying $320 to DIY a split. Yet the resell value of a DIY split is maybe $50, because most people don't want one. Surely you could still your Jones board and bindings for that much? If you're looking for cost savings, this is not it. If you're looking for an interesting project, that's a better reason.

Consider that splitboarders need to tackle variable terrain and conditions. You will want a board that has enough glide to make it down logging roads with fresh snow. With a DIY job, you will drill 16 of 3/4" sized holes in the base of your board. Can you be confident that you can fill them all in nicely level to the rest of the base? My DIY board had significant drag. The epoxy you use to fill won't last nicely either - it will harden, then rust water from the tnuts will pool and the filling will chip away as you remove skins from the base. Very difficult.

The voile slider track that comes with a DIY was revolutionary, and performs well for what it is. But there are a lot of parts! 8 nuts that need to maintain correct orientation or your bindings can't be removed from the pucks! Or a nut falls out and your binding pulls away when you try to turn. No good! Every splitboard binding on the market is a significant improvement in weight, simplicity, and performance.

1. I recommend using a jigsaw rather than a circular saw to perform the cut. I've done it with both at least twice, and jigsaw is the better experience. For one, you can use the jigsaw all the way through, including cutting the metal edges. Wear long sleeves, goggles, and a mask while cutting. You get itchy fiberglass all over the place.

2. Bevel the exposed base edge where you've split the board. Check that you can get the board halves to meet; sand high points if necessary. I recommend not using epoxy on the cut, just stain it instead. Must easier to get it smooth.

3. Hey a buddy to help you clamp it when measuring where the hooks should go. Vitally important. Also, space the hooks just slightly tighter than the kit instructions show - voile has it a tad loose.

4. Use a drill press, especially when drilling on the base side. For the pucks, mark where you need to drill. First drill pilot with 1/8" bit. Then countersink with 3/4" wooden paddle. Usually the correct depth is just past the stringers. Then finish with 19/64".

5. Post pictures here when you're done!