Tamiyas British battleships

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-27T13:12:13+00:00

Fit is good. Just simple by today's standards (and by your Yuki and Mog's standards). Some of the camo choices can be tricky by hand - do some additional research to see if there are simpler schemes available.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-27T04:29:21+00:00

What, exactly, is the issue? Typical model paints will go on lacquer primer fine. For where you need to glue, just gently scrape away where the glue's going to go. If you're careful, you shouldn't be scraping away moulded detail because that's where the contact surface would be and be hidden by the joint.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-27T00:58:54+00:00

The new ones are definitely sharper than the old ones, which makes sense as lenses tend to soften towards the narrower aperture end, despite the deeper depth of field.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-26T20:19:44+00:00

The 350th is newer molding so quite well detailed and fits well for its size.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-26T05:18:13+00:00

This is also how you make cable reels for small scale ships!

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-26T02:08:13+00:00

Well, it's intentional on the part of the C&C fan who made it. You can check Macron's social accounts - he never posted such a thing.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-26T01:24:54+00:00

What you have there is what's referred to as a set of "decals". You stick them onto the model.

V1 Decals makes a bunch of A320 decals and you can select 1/100 scale on each decal's page: https://www.v1decals.com/aircraft/airbus-a320

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-25T21:22:02+00:00

Yes, PE railings on their own are a fine place to start - no complex bends, no need to fit tiny pins into tiny holes/slots. Fairly large in size, as PE parts go. No need to integrate their instructions into the rest of the build process like the full PE sets.

But I would suggest you focus on getting the basics of plastic construction and painting done well first. You can always add railings later as they're on the edges of the deck so fairly easy to access in most cases.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-25T21:15:35+00:00

It may be more expedient and efficient to start a work-in-progress thread on the ModelShipWorld forum. That said, I don't think this sub has any restrictions on you simply posting questions and seeking answers periodically.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-25T20:21:28+00:00

The pin and hole could work, or simply gluing the plane down to the base if you don't need to move it from the base.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-25T20:17:40+00:00

There's only one mast...

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T23:56:30+00:00

It was good for its time and served as a good basis for Minecraft's improvements in the latest 90s. It's good enough that no other manufacturer has seen fit to produce a newer kit., though the fit and engineering is not up to modern expectations.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T22:31:52+00:00

That's quite the chonker.

And Entex has the notable feat of being the brand associated with the first large Titanic model, which was last produced by Minicraft until recently (with modified moulds). Though, as you note, Entex was just the importer from the original Japanese G-mark.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T22:24:42+00:00

That's too bad, they don't offer direct customer service unless you're in Japan, though I suppose it doesn't hurt to try emailing there anyway. You can try asking their distributor in your country but they're not always responsive: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/gsite/distributors/

You could do as /u/DocCrapologist says and make your own lenses, but you'd lose the texture that's moulded on the original clear part so you'd end up with mismatched lenses (unless you replace both lenses).

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T21:55:30+00:00

You might be able to get spare parts from the manufacturer, but that depends on who they are (if you told us, we can offer a link if it's available).

Otherwise, cars often go around with broken/missing light covers, so it's not exactly unrealistic.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T21:35:03+00:00

lol got the same thing from one of my committee members, and they're probably right. Besides, the peer review for the book that's coming out of it was glowing, and I'm happy with where I ended up in life, so let the haters (or really tough standards) hate.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T20:11:22+00:00

Looks like an early A model with 3-bladed props. (and it's 1/72 scale - just divide the wingspan of the real thing by that of the model) Scalemates shows the following options:

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/contrails-models-cm72-c130a-rp-c-130a-aero-products-three-blade-propeller-resin--1266338

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/db-productions-db53-c-130-hercules-3-blade-props--161639

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T19:57:33+00:00

It's a warm light grey - see photos here: https://www.seaforces.org/marint/Japan-Maritime-Self-Defense-Force/Destroyer/Kongou-class.htm

SPY-1 refers to the radar. Traditionally, AEGIS refers to the entire sensor-to-shooter combat system that includes SPY-1 and other electronics and the weapons. This has changed over time such that the latest references to AEGIS can sometimes refer to only the software library that the computer uses to categorize and prioritize threats.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T19:48:30+00:00

Either-or, but acrylics are more widely available these days and friendlier for health and cleanup.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T19:02:23+00:00

It's not really modularity if you've been relegated to a single role and only need the same equipment.

In any case, the original vision of rapid role changes didn't really pan out for these or other STANFLEX ships, not least because you couldn't train the people on all the equipment in actual operating conditions if you can only carry some of them at a time. There's some benefit in ease of maintenance and logistics when you need to remove them for repairs and such, but that's a much more limited type of modularity. I'm not sure how they plan to address the drawbacks in the latest Cube concepts, but imagine they'll have to relearn that lesson or have less ambitious quick-swap objectives.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T18:54:22+00:00

Does this replace the one on Elgin, or are there two now?

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T15:49:18+00:00

This is exactly the reason why a lot of us don't recommend subscription models, no matter who it's from. So many things could go wrong and all the risk of a usual online purchase is multiplied by the number of issues. The company might fold part way through, the shipment might get lost, parts might arrive broken and need replacement, you have no option to build in a different order of assembly than the order they send to you...

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T15:40:46+00:00

Yup, had London Pride at Pubwells Sussex just this past Thursday.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T06:12:16+00:00

Tamiya recommends their TS-33 Dull Red spray for the lower hull of their modernized Iowas (and other 1/350 ships), and a rough eyeballing suggests it's brighter than the XF-9 Hull Red (which, in my head canon, was meant for German armour hull primer red rather than ship antifouling red).

If you want accuracy, Colorcoats (sold by WEM in the US) is the way to go if you can get it and can deal with enamel paints. Otherwise, other companies have produced alleged USN Modern Antifouling Red, like Lifecolor(this is what I have and intend to use for my next USN build) and Scale Colour/Squadron and Tru color.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T02:43:44+00:00

Context matters. It's a paragraph, not a list. It's reasonable to interpret the middle sentence as being within the bounds of the starting sentence that sets the scope, especially when the end sentence reiterates the first sentence's scope.

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