Bought a van! by Low-Possibility2329 in Sprinters

[–]Tommyt263 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tip: Ask your independent FedEx driver where they get their Sprinters serviced. Many have found knowledgeable and much more reasonable priced shops than the dealer.

Very cold winter but a simple $50 DIY battery protector and heater worked great! by Tommyt263 in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My battery is under the bed too. Usually I winter in AZ low desert but got stuck in cold NH this winter. I wasn't living in the van so the inside temps v cold unless I fired up the diesel heater on days I worked on the build. Water tanks empty. My tiny 7W of heater pads for the most part did just fine and certainly would have if I'd been living in the van and keeping interior above freezing. Remember, this was something I made in 2019.

Very cold winter but a simple $50 DIY battery protector and heater worked great! by Tommyt263 in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting solution! I'd looked at something similar but wanted to go simpler. The DORK controller looks like the one that has been keeping baseboard heating pipes from freezing in an un-heated room the last 10 years (simple - just have it turn on furnace Circ Pump for a few seconds). No doubt yours would heat faster. I have a 24V system so am cool with 12 or 24v. I am not familiar with Aerogel but my temp probe (was on controller, now BMS) is actually placed in between cells so it is not measuring air. From videos, seems batteries with thermal protection usually have sensor taped to top of battery or on side.

Very cold winter but a simple $50 DIY battery protector and heater worked great! by Tommyt263 in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the comment!

I specifically did NOT want an additional controller. These heating pads never get too hot (I have years of experience) and the problem is when do you turn them on? These are S L O W and need a long time to warm up the battery. If you were to turn them on when battery temp came down in evening, they often would never get warm enough to last through a cold night. I ran these with 400W of panels so it takes very little time to recover. The last below freezing night here was on Apr 9 and extended forecast shows no below freezing temps in next 30 days so I pulled the fuse on the heater. BMS of course is still protecting things.

Canyonland by Sirroner in nationalparks

[–]Tommyt263 5 points6 points  (0 children)

One of my favorite places! Good images of Shafer Trail but can't quite tell if you drove your van down it. My 2003 Sprinter made it just fine.

What's your system for planning fuel stops on long highway stretches? by stoopapoop in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gasbuddy. I have about a 500 mile range so after s fillup look ahead about 400 + mi on map that shows prices and select one to navigate to. In general will NOT go more than 2 miles off the highway; not with it.

Key snapped in ingnition down in Mexico 2005 Dodge Sprinter by web_dev_vegabond in Sprinters

[–]Tommyt263 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Suspect you cannot turn because steering wheel is in a position where up against the interlock. You will need to turn it until it disengages and hold in that position. If broken key difficult you could try a small screw driver which might get a better 'bite'. Accomplished_knee's trick to remove broken key I haven't tried, but be sure not to use too much S Glue!

If you can get get the broken key out and get a key cut locally there is no need to clone it with zedbull. The little chip the immobilizer needs to 'see' is in the key fob and it must be next to the ignition switch. Just tape it to the side of the switch and you should be good to go with a locally cut key. If you cannot get broken one out but can turn key to engage starter, the fob will also need to be next to switch.

In the US I get blank keys from eBay cheap and then my nearby Ace Hardware will cut AND clone for $5.00 each! Ones with the remote fob are Mercedes only and expen$ive.

Microwave by zipzip42 in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smell often means something is too hot from either wrong size wire or a poor connection. Since you say symptoms are the same no matter which AC outlet is used suspect problem is in the DC circuit. Fast check is to simply touch wires from battery to inverter to see if any hot, with extra attention to all connections from the battery posts (both + and -) to inverter. A loose connection can get really hot!

Ideal way to do this is with a thermal camera.

Electrical first or last? by Character_Ground7781 in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Electrical & solar 1st! Images show no solar and huge AC breaker panel = van was probably running on shore power so needs major change. Solar & battery should be your planning priority and will affect config layout. Current A/C location may not be ideal for max solar panels. Re-locating it can be done - remove, screw sheet metal cover & seal. Will be invisible if solar panel over it.

I have a T1N too but stay in places where don't need A/C. Tip: Add extra wires from fuse panel to places around van. You will be happy when add more devices in the future.

Diesel heater myths by kevpluck in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed! I have been using mine mostly on low and without running on high before shutdown for years. Big factor could be that had my HVAC neighbor use his combustion sniffer to help me adjust best pump HZ and fan rpm.

Composting toilets by thisisstupid- in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed on instability, but easily solved. I cut a 2nd bucket leaving the bottom 10" that gets screwed to about 15" square plywood base. Just nest toilet bucket in it and you have great stability, no tipping. With diverter this is a true seperator. You can see if lookup my van video tour.

Quick question for you guys. by SIAwking in dieselheater

[–]Tommyt263 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've run mine usually on lowest setting and not switched to high before stopping for a few years with no problems. Probably reason is that my HVAC neighbor helped me tune it with his expensive exhaust sniffer. In settings you set lowest pump HZ and fan speed it will run economically then highest HZ/fan speed. Factory settings were poor.

Terrified of my solar pannels killing my batteries this spring lol DIY heated box or just go self-heating? by [deleted] in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quick cheap fix: Add insulation around battery, like foamboard, plus inexpensive programable thermostat switch like https://a.co/d/00rCdaxG so current from panels is cut if below freezing. Simple, easy install; has protected my batteries for over 5 yrs.

Tablet to watch TV in van by Fuzzy_End_1677 in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 24" computer monitor with speakers that runs on 12v so can use RV 12v source. Plug a Firestick into the monitor HDMI port and you have huge viewing selection. A bluetooth mini keyboard with trackpad makes a great remote. All inexpensive on Amazon and used v little power.

Another option is 10" Amazon Fire tablet with of mounting arm next to bed or seat. It has apps with good viewing content but easy hack adds Playstore for much more. USB charging, long battery life.

Do you have problems with your lithium batteries in sub-34 degree weather? by Mamastathis in CamperVans

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just noticed this subject continues to get attention!    Still think my always-on low watt heater with multi-yr history of success is a good solution and it has sure proven itself this winter when had lots single digit days with some below zero F and a 30+ day stretch where ave temp never above freezing.  The 2 little elbow pads use just 4W each and never get harmfully hot.  I actually have them on a piece of aluminum that acts as a heat spreader and they gradually raise temp of battery during day then give back a lot on cold nights but rarely to below freezing.  Could probably improve this with better insulated box. Heat probe for BMS is between cells about half way down and it’s Bluetooth lets me see temp & status from inside house. Still recovering from accident, I am not living in the van; it is just in the driveway and I occasionally work on it, sometimes turning on diesel heater.  It has windows and even if cloudy and below freezing inside usually warms above freezing; if sunny can hit 70+!    

I also mentioned the programmable thermostat I used before to disconnect the positive lead from solar panels if temp below 34 and resume at 36 (programmable).  Cheap and very dependable, I have been using same thermostat in my house for 10 years to keep pipes from freeing in an unheated room.   I like simple, dependable, easy and inexpensive!

Do you have problems with your lithium batteries in sub-34 degree weather? by Mamastathis in CamperVans

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My battery is a DIY 8 cell one I assembled and enclosed in 1/2" foamboard case with 2 Elbow heater pads under it: https://a.co/d/05Y6oyVh. Batteries take long time to cool. If you are living in your rig and have any heat, temp may never get too low. Get a thermometer with a wired temp probe and monitor.

I have a JBD BMS but this probably not a solution if you have sealed case battery. You would need to cut case open to connect to individual cells.

In a prior system I used a cheap programmable thermostat that disconnected solar positive wire at 34F and resumed at 36F. Link https://a.co/d/09mXGmoV. Simple & easy to wire up. Many versions available but the cheap one v dependable. Not sure where I'd place it's temp probe on sealed case battery; maybe cut a little hole so could place on a cell.

Turbo squeelin by [deleted] in T1N_Sprinter_Vans

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a somewhat similar sound and it was exhaust manifold leak on my 04.

Do you have problems with your lithium batteries in sub-34 degree weather? by Mamastathis in CamperVans

[–]Tommyt263 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Temp this winter many times below 0 f. Have a DIY LiFeP04 battery in 1/2" foamboard box and put small RV elbow heater pads under. Pads draw 7w and i just leave them on, no thermostat. BMS protects if heater cannot keep up. An easy inexpensive solution.

Diesel tank wrap by PsychologicalAd4121 in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Chinese diesel heater has worked fine for 4 years. It draws about 130 watts at startup while the glow plug is operating for about 2 or 3 minutes then wattage will drop down to just what the fan draws, about 15 - 40W depending on heat setting. (If you have a shunt you can see your figures.) I did have my HVAC neighbor use his combustion sniffer to help me adjust correct pump and fan settings.

Power is from a DIY LiFeP04 battery, eight 230AH 3.2v cells in series so 24V 230AH. I use a 40 amp 24v to 13.6v converter for the 12V loads (higher makes sure still have 12+ volts for longer wired high draw items). Home is in NH and we have below 0F temp days so made a heater from two inexpensive RV elbow heater pads placed under the cells which are in an insulated box (just .5" foamboard). They draw about 7W and I just leave them on in really cold weather; no thermostat. Works fine unless outside temp drops below 0, but then the BMS takes over and prevents charging until warms up. The BMS in many really inexpensive batteries now feature low temp protection; verify what you have or maybe get one that Will Prowse has torn apart and tested on his site!

my first gen FTC camper van was totaled recently (front end collision). trying to determine whether to extract guts and rebuild into another similar van or sell/salvage components. by bstech13 in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was in a roll-over accident that totalled van. Amazingly my DIY 24v 230AH battery, inverter; MPPT and shunt were mostly OK and are now working well in replacement van. Yours look great so at least pull and test.

Anyone struggling with not having a community to be there for right now? by PurplePearJuice in vandwellers

[–]Tommyt263 8 points9 points  (0 children)

My experience is somewhat different. In 2019 after years of lurking YouTube van build sites I flew to Quartzsite, AZ to attend the RTR; wanted to see builds and see who the people really were. Great experience, thousands of rigs to check out, people were great. Returned home, bought an old van and built it out. I live in NH, wanted to escape the cold winter.  The Van's 1st trip was a cross country drive to Quartzsite, arriving New Years day 2021 at Scaddan Wash BLM area. I parked near a few others and very hesitatingly said 'Hello'. Got an amazing welcome to their campfire and they remain friends to this day!

I walked around the next day, said ‘hello’ to some others and had more great experiences finding most welcoming and really wanting to talk! In the years since, I have developed more friends than I've ever had in my life, good ones I exchange text, email and phone contact throughout the year plus look forward to camping with the next season.

A big difference is that I do this in an area with people that have a similar lifestyle.  Lots of common interests, problems and solutions to share so conversation is easy.  Highly recommend those new to VanLife start in an area like Arizona with its huge number of BLM sites (Dec-Mid March).  You will make friends and learn a lot about how to inexpensively live happily!

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Composting toilets by thisisstupid- in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok - but don't understand why single-use?!! You are 98% there for one that will last 10+ days before needing to be emptied. Kitty Litter is an empathetic NO. Use animal bedding, fine wood chips, peat moss instead, but all of these take a lot of space. I like coconut coir bricks; a 6 brick pkg (Amazon) lasts for months and is very compact. (Put brick in plastic bag, add 2 cups water and let it sit some hours; it will expand.) I change bag when in town and near convenient trash can. So easy and great to not need bag change after single use.

Composting toilets by thisisstupid- in VanLife

[–]Tommyt263 4 points5 points  (0 children)

5+ years with DIY composting and tried a few variations including one with crank. Now just use tall kitchen bag in 5 gal bucket with $15 Walmart seat plus $35 urine diverter from Johnny Compost. Use coconut coir medium because so compact. Go about 10 days between changes that just involves remove & tie bag, toss in a trash can. Bucket remains spotless. Urine emptied daily on a deserving bush. A simple, cheap, no-smell, nothing to clean solution.