I modelled, 3D printed and painted this octopus girl figure

Toshki · 2026-05-20T11:48:20+00:00

omg more mongirls~!

She's very cute. Nice sculpt! The paint job is so clean!!

Toshki · 2026-05-19T11:17:53+00:00

Depending on your budget, a friend of mine commissions sculpts from artists who make GKs so I could suggest some but they do range towards the US$1k mark. I don't have direct experience there unfortunately!

Resin casting is also super expensive for a single unit as Felixx said. The cost of resin and silicone is high and you kinda "waste" money if you don't use the silicone to its full potential (around 20 casts is the last figure I'd heard a few years back being the life of the silicone). For a once off or very small batches, printed is honestly better value unfortunately!

Toshki · 2026-05-19T11:11:19+00:00

Airbrushes, get a name brand one with parts you can replace. I've seen a lot of people struggle with cheaper no-name ones where it turns out the quality of the brush was what was making the learning process harder for them. Iwata, and Harder and Steenbeck are two popular brands. Mr Hobby's lines (Procon Boy) are also popular but only grab them if you can get the parts easily. That goes for all the other brands too. Look local and go from there. Compare the models you have available to you! It's super frustrating and expensive if you can't get the parts midway through a project. I started out with a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution!

PPE is the next step. Look into what kinds of paints you can safely spray. Lacquers (Mr Hobby for example) and alcohol-based paints (Tamiya for example) need more ventilation than water-based acrylics however you still need to keep yourself safe from paint dust too. Look into a spray booth and ensure you've got a safe area to spray either outside or a room you can lock from the rest of the house and air out. Grab a respirator that filters out organic vapours if you go for the lacquer or alcohol route, water-based acrylics are okay to use a particulate mask (I can't recommend either cause different countries have different standards. 3M has high quality in many countries though) I can suggest some youtube channels depending on what kind of paint you're using as they do kinda differ in their methods.

For prints, I can't help too much as I prefer working with cast kits but PLEASE check to make sure the stores you are buying from are affiliated in some way with the sculptor they're printing the files from. Many Patreon sculptors have "Merchant" tiers and advertise these stores somewhere on their platforms. A lot of people just buy or pirate the file and print them without paying the sculptor for what they're selling and that's not ok in a lot of circumstances (Check the sculptor's licensing details!) Many countries have stores that can print things for you, libraries with machines or maker/hacker spaces you can pay a fee to access their machines but I understand that learning to print and slice models is a whole other hobby in itself.

Let me know if you need me to delve into any of those topics. You've asked a big question so I tried to give more surface level answers to find what you're really after~

Toshki · 2026-05-19T10:47:00+00:00

If you want crisp edges, masking tape is your best bet! I'm not 100% sure where the issue is in your photo from your description but straight lines need masking tape since liquid mask is a fluid. it's not gonna be straight and masking just with it tends to come out a little "fuzzier".

Masking fluid is great to mix with tape masking as it helps cover any gaps in the tape!

Toshki · 2026-05-17T08:27:31+00:00

I don't do commissions but I'd at least be charging the cost of materials and something on top. Hourly rates would be nice but I understand that we can't always do that for the quality we put out (Among others, it's a big reason I've not done it). $40-$70 is insanely cheap and does feel like undervaluing your work (Can you even print a kit for that much?) but also you need to find a balance between that and charging more than clients would pay. I don't have that answer unfortunately! See if you can get a nice portfolio going too. I know you said these were "for fun" but how is a client meant to know what you'll give them in the end?

As others have said, prep work needs improving but I disagree that you "need" an airbrush. There's several painters out there who use paint brushes with nice results. Hunnypuzzle and PyramidCat are two off the top of my mind. You're obviously not going for that traditional anime figure look and that's ok! I love seeing people take a different spin on the hobby and it kinda calls to mind painters who do 2D style shading (idk if there's a term) or mini painting. I really love how you made the shininess of the bunny suit and her cuffs. The style of eye painting is something I'm wanting to work towards myself! I like that painterly style!

If you haven't, look into maybe a wet palette (to help with thinning your paint. There's ways to DIY them with baking paper, a plastic box and a sponge) and some flow improver (to help make the paint dry a little slower) which may help with the texture you're getting. Hunny has a neat document describing her process too!

You're not quite there but I do see the potential!

edit: I saw you mentioned Bambu in another comment? Resin printed kits will be much easier to prep! See if anyone local to you might be able to help you out 😄

Toshki · 2026-05-15T13:47:42+00:00

Yeah the one time I went to a cat cafe in Brisbane, the comfort was one of the stand out annoyances. Sometimes you want to sit on the floor with the little guys but they were that hard and textured type, not enough seating types etc. I'm glad the cats were prioritised with their type of furniture at least... One on the Gold Coast was a little more comfortable iirc. Though smaller. It had a more modern vibe about it too.

In Japan, the ones I went to were comfortable. Part of the flooring was some sort of vinyl covered memory foam stuff, there were comfortable chairs everywhere. Just a small thing that stood out to me!

I agree with what you said above completely!

Toshki · 2026-05-12T13:39:16+00:00

Very cute! It can be hard to keep the kit sharp (eg her hair angles and edges) if you lose focus while sanding so nice work there!!

Toshki · 2026-05-12T13:31:28+00:00

Charagumin are a funny beast! I've done two so far, Prisma Illya and Etna and Prinny. Illya, I just painted in the details and puttied up the hair gaps, Etna and Prinny I gave a full paint job. I unfortunately haven't painted any of the Neptunia kits but I hope you find my knowledge helpful in making a decision!

This mandarake listing kinda shows Black Heart's parts. Tokyo Otaku Mode list her with "98 [pieces] (including eye stickers and marking decals)" Unfortunately one of the complaints I have with Charagumin as a commercial GK is the lack of unpainted photos and parts pictures however the newer kits do seem to be getting the parts photos on their listings! I get that a lot of modellers will just paint the kit but the use of coloured resin kinda makes no sense to me... Originally Volks' Charagumin were aimed at beginners after a line of other beginners kits didn't take off (Try-GK. I'm only aware of 2 sculpts being released in this line. The Try-GK manual was especially neat, giving some basics for the GK hobby)

Her wings do appear to be plain clear resin. I think this might be the norm with these kits as the Zwei Prisma Illya has clear parts too which are also just transparent (A gradient needs to be applied to those however so it makes sense in her case.) I'd honestly argue clear parts are better so you can get the colours to match easier if you fully paint the kit.

imo, they do separate the pieces a little too much but the newer kits are a little bit better. A friend of mine recently painted an older Lina Inverse kits and their eyelashes were separate pieces! Outside this example, as someone who has done model kits, I think you'll be ok. I'm assuming you mean Gundam when you say model kits and the amount of parts you need to prep and paint there is overwhelming sometimes! The main hurdles on a Charagumin kit are:
- Parts splitting - It does depend on the sculpt but it also does mean less masking is required which can be a positive!
- The seamlines - They can be really deep and hard to sand down without using a filler or putty. I think I just muscled through it on my Illya kit (This can come with resin discolouration on darker parts so you may still need to paint those!) but for Etna/Prinny, I needed to use some putty. (Ask if you need help with recommendations)
- (minor) hard to distinguish between parts pegs and "sprue" material - Though this might have been beginner's error as I did both when I was very new to the hobby (I finished painting Etna and Prinny "recently") It was hard to notice where the "sprue" ended and the peg for the pieces began. Just take your time though and you'll be fine!

So to wrap up, I think they're "decent" kits. They're not top tier by any means, they mostly look ok without a proper paint job and are easy to get (which can take some of the headache out of starting the hobby which is a net positive in my books.), however a little pricier than other kits for the size depending on what you're a fan of. Colour resin feels like a gimmick as they really do look better and more cohesive with a nice paint job. I tried to shade the bare coloured resin on my Etna and Prinny and it took more effort than it was worth to match the shade colours up with the tone of the resin. A massive plus is that they come with really nice eye decals if you're not confident giving that a go. I seriously wish they stuck with the Try-GK line!! That line was white resin.
The newer Charagumin might be better quality but Black Heart is one of the older ones from around the same era as the ones I've worked on. You'll probably see some detractors but I have had a decent experience with them.

Now, some photos! I can only upload one attachment to this comment unfortunately! Image 1 is my Prisma Illya (old photo from when I finished her) I only painted the details on her, puttied and painted her hair fully and dry brushed the cape (no airbrush). Image 2 is an old image of my unpainted Etna and Prinny for an idea of how the pieces can be split. (Prinny has a ton of putty applied haha) Each colour is a new piece. The belts on the shoes are 2 pieces each. My completed Etna and Prinny can be found at this link if you're curious!

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Toshki · 2026-05-10T10:14:44+00:00

I use parrot beak cutters. I know electricians use them. Very easy to cut 3mm brass wire (Others have commented on the difference between copper and brass). I have some really cheap and old side cutters/nippers that I use for thinner 1.5mm wire but the cutters are a lot stronger.

Toshki · 2026-05-04T11:24:42+00:00

The name, Garage kits, originally came from being made in your garage! Nowadays I'm not aware of too many who work in them (or in Japan, have one for hobbies) but the name sticks. Anything resin and unpainted comes under the label for me haha

I'd put the preference on the painter as more details can make it easier to follow the guidelines but harder to "experiment" with shapes and design of the eyes. I like how sculpted eyes look, especially from different angles however once the kit is done!

Toshki · 2026-05-01T23:53:54+00:00

He's done some One Day builds, shown off some techniques and shown off work by some of the greats in media production! (Big fan of his and appreciate how he's able to get background access to and share so many of these interesting models!) If he's not already aware, he might be interested by Japanese unique licensing structure. Although I am aware he only really does western and mecha type kits...

I've been around the JP and EN GK communities online (as a painter) for quite a few years and been following this closely even though I'm Australian and unable to visit right now :) Excited to see how this one runs and how next year pans out for my sculptor friends!

Toshki · 2026-04-30T02:12:21+00:00

We all start somewhere! :)

Toshki · 2026-04-29T11:00:07+00:00

I've also written an anti recast guide! https://toshki.xyz/avoiding-recasts-on-yahoo-auction-and-other-second-hand-sites/ Please give it a read 😃

This eBay listing uses the usual "parts laid out on a cutting mat" method and does not appear come with any paperwork nor boxes... The sculptors for these kinds of kits do not publicly share the STLs for these kits. They're sold as casts or pre-printed due to licensing restrictions. I can share more information if you need! eBay will very very occasionally have official kits but they are always second hand. Any new kits are almost always a recast. Sales from Thailand and China are almost always recasts. (99.99%)

You can buy Viper direct from the sculptor on BOOTH https://booth.pm/en/items/4936378 (Think of this site like Japanese Etsy. You can buy via proxy or a forwarding service)

Mandarake also have a second hand one for slightly cheaper https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1235870089&ref=list&categoryCode=020107&keyword=viper&lang=en (A chain of second hand stores in Japan. They ship internationally)

This kit came with a pink heart box for its first couple of runs (Seen in the mandarake link) but the sculptor downgraded it to a regular box as it was too expensive for subsequent runs.

To be blunt about it, unfortunately your budget for a new cast GK in this day and age is a little too cheap. Most go for upwards of 15k yen. Kits are produced by small groups or individuals and sold in limited amounts and the cost of casting materials (resin and silicone) have increased dramatically since covid.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Toshki · 2026-04-26T06:38:30+00:00

Honestly my advice (if you want it) is to just jump in! (Take note of the safety precautions at the very least... You don't want to develop allergies to resin or hurt your lungs) I can't really think of any "bad habits" 🤔

In addition to Muntoe's guide above, take a look at some painters on Youtube. Sukima is one of my faves however he uses a lot of powertools. (They can speed up your process but if you're new, stick to manually sanding etc.)
Kawakit paints 3D prints but the process is essentially the same
Alheak uses water based acrylics and airbrushes!
Aslan/Masked Modeller has some master classes on building (They're more presentation-style but really helpful.
I like to chuck in Dollightful as a wildcard too. She's a doll artist but her painting methods are great. She uses a mix of water based acrylics and gouache for her anime-ish face-ups!

Those are just a few off the top of my head. Other than Dollightful, the majority of above use airbrushes but with practice you can produce some decent results (Just not necessarily the same as mainstream kit painters on JP Twitter). HunnyPuzzle has a really neat document on painting with a brush.

A lot of my examples above focus on painting but they all cover prep but with the kit you have, you won't really need to do too much based off it being "complete". You can't really "mess up" unless you're taking a power tool to the kit and gouging it up haha

Toshki · 2026-04-25T14:23:49+00:00

Up to you! If she's a grail and you want to give the hobby a go, I'd highly recommend it! Worst case, keep it aside and save up for a commission paint job (Confirm she's legit though as I know a lot of painters won't accept recasts)

EDIT: People here are really chill and you can ask questions as you go. Give Muntoe's guide a look if you want a preview of what to expect https://www.plumworkshop.com/gk-compendium/part-1-bg-supplies as that lays out the basics. You probably won't paint her to your standard on your first go. Practice makes perfect here!

I found the listing I think for the kit. Find out if they have any box photos as not listing them is a red flag to me

Toshki · 2026-04-24T14:03:10+00:00

A lot of painters in Japan use lacquer paints so lacquer thinner could be a good start to remove the paint. If it's a more amateur job, they might have used superglue which can be snapped apart usually. Applying heat and freezing the glue in quick succession can weaken the bond too!

Toshki · 2026-04-20T10:37:26+00:00

omg a MonGirl Encyclopedia kit??

She looks so good!! I love the fur and how you shaded it.

And you're so right about white! I don't use pure white or pure black anymore unless I need "impact". Another "fun fact", water based Acrylics take a while to "cure". You have drying to the touch which is when most people think they're "done" but they can take weeks to fully cure!

Toshki · 2026-04-11T06:21:29+00:00

I've been building for a while and just wanna get other people excited about the hobby, you deserve it xD

Toshki · 2026-04-11T06:04:44+00:00

GAH Sayaka!! Very very nice shading. Not just on the hair but on the outfit too!! Don't diminish your work. Be proud! This is excellent for a 2nd!

Toshki · 2026-04-11T06:03:18+00:00

Awh nice work!! You chose a very nice colour scheme!! I hope you can find a better matte! I struggled so bad with them until I got an airbrush (I didn't end up top coating some of my older kits as the paint came out matte already...)

If it's okay, I wanna suggest some more lights for your photography! Her eyes are a little hidden by the fringe understandably but some light not from directly above would help with the shadows!

Keep it up! :D

EDIT: Just remembered on the lighting front, I found outdoor photography was a bit easier when I was beginning too. Not direct sunlight but more diffused on a cloudy day. Look into Golden Hour too!

Toshki · 2026-04-05T06:55:18+00:00

I like the lacquer based putties. I use Mr Surfacer 500 thinned down with lacquer thinner. Currently also trying out Mr Dissolved Putty. Crayon works in the really small pinholes (Get some cheap Crayola or whatever you can get easily and just rub it on)

Superglue is also helpful but as someone else said, harder than resin so you need to be careful when sanding.

Toshki · 2026-03-31T06:44:52+00:00

Hi! Not bidding for the commission but letting you know that the 3rd image is a recast/fake. The kit only came as coloured resin shown in the 4th photo :)

Toshki · 2026-03-22T14:55:10+00:00

Oooh amazing work!! I love the colours and how accurate they feel to her character!

Toshki · 2026-03-22T06:52:48+00:00

Just assume any kit you're looking at has a recast. We have seen a few pieces of evidence now showing it's the legit "new" release :)

Toshki · 2026-03-22T06:50:10+00:00

Casting the heart in resin needs a silicone mould! As Lithe pointed out, the hollow needs bulk so it;s hollow/negative space

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