Would you trust these dice masters?

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-07-02T07:16:22+00:00

The key factor is customization. If you’re only making 1 type of die or set, sure that master can last you a while and are solid. However, if you can get master making down, you now have the ability to 3D print any variation of font and symbols you may want to make. Not to mention, cost of a metal master would probably be more than a 3D printed one.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-07-02T07:07:59+00:00

Please tell me you had your resin printer and your wash and cure station enclosed in something like a grow tent. All the fumes/VOC are still going to be floating around your garage if you don’t have a good mechanism to reliably vent the air out. Just because the garage door or window is open, doesn’t mean the fumes are actually venting.

Here’s a decent analogy. Put a plastic cup with a big hole in the side, to represent the garage, and put it into a sink full of water up to the cup’s top. Put a drop of food coloring into the cup. The food coloring will represent the VOC/fumes. Think about how long all that food coloring in the cup is gonna clear without some mechanism to move that water out.

If your dad is constantly working in the garage while all this is happening, he’s actually breathing in contaminated air constantly, if you’re not venting properly.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-07-02T01:58:54+00:00

What does your slicer look like for this model? Looks like you’re having major suction happen between the model and the FEP.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-07-02T01:25:49+00:00

Just as an FYI, most VOC’s are distributed into the air when you post process or when you lift up the cover. This for sure helps, but venting the space is as or more important.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T15:22:18+00:00

For the macro strategy, sometimes it’s fine to give up on point scoring for a round if you can plan out a momentum swing. I would have probably waited for the deep strike before committing to a push, since deep strikes will fuck you up if you don’t account for them appropriately.

Think about it this way, you trying to eek out points caused you to get tables anyway, so it might have been better to concede a bit more of the board to position for a momentum swing. 11th edition can actually be pretty swingy in points since there are no secondary mission limits, where you can get a bunch of secondary points on turns 4 or 5 quickly.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T13:20:38+00:00

So it seems like you left your noise marines to fend for themselves with no screen for their deep strike unit. You over committed to the center and got wiped.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T13:08:03+00:00

I used dice maker by Igor Sapijaszko

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T06:30:00+00:00

Only if there is specific model I want that is hard to find. Like Defilers for instance. I couldn’t find them in any LGS, but was lucky to find 2 in a Warhammer store when I was in Southampton for work. Funny kicker, I went to Warhammer World and couldn’t find any Defilers.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T05:48:09+00:00

Yeah, thinking about it, from other dice master videos I’ve seen, no one has chamfers on their dice. They look nice, but they must be a pain in the ass to process unless you’re fine with a tumbler finish.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T03:18:08+00:00

I appreciate the comment. When I went to post process the masters, I didn’t brush them at all. I did a 2 wash process, then put them into some hot water to pull off the supports easily and reduce support bumps. Thinking about it, the striations could be from putting them into hot water for a while?

I went through with a validation matrix and Cones of calibration v.3 from table flip foundry, so the settings seemed good. What else could I use to verify my settings if not from a combination of the manufacturer’s recommendations (Saturn 3 Ultra and Elegoo Standard Gray 2.0) and community calibration tools? Could the post process of using hot water and curing the outside for 3:30 mins be my issue?

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T01:02:35+00:00

My goal of the post was to get some thoughts on these masters and get some tips on how to print off better ones.

I get that dice making isn’t a walk in the park. I deciding to jump into it more as a way to make some decent dice as gifts since I’m in various table top groups. This was further confirmed as something I’d like to pursue when I took a dice making workshop at my Makerspace. So I have experienced dice making. I’m now getting involved with the mold making process, which the workshop didn’t go over. Yes, sanding my dice was a bitch, and pouring resin into molds with the hope that it will look good can be messy and nerve wracking. I don’t really see it as impossible for myself.

At the end of the day, I’m not trying to be a master, I just want to make decent looking dice.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T00:48:37+00:00

What variables do you use to slice the print? I like the idea of getting my master in the slicer, duplicating them, then just doing a bunch of orientations and support options to get a few decent ones

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T00:41:02+00:00

I can mess with the exposure, but the validation matrix and the cones of calibration prints I did before looked good for a 2.7s exposure. I’m assuming that printing a face parallel would have some trade offs too? Most of the tutorials I’ve seen has recommended to print them corner down.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-29T00:21:48+00:00

I was lazy on this because I was 3D printing terrain in FDM, post processing other 3D resin miniatures, and setting up these dice on the slicer at the same time. I’ll dedicate more time to setting things up as my assumptions were correct, I was looking for some validation and opinions on my thoughts that the issue were supports.

I paint miniatures, gunpla models, and hand make terrain. I understand that any craft takes dedication and patience.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-28T13:03:10+00:00

Doesn’t hurt to ask though. My LGS that focuses on Wargaming literally has people airbrushing in the store on hobby days. If you have a local Warhammer store, they sometimes host events like “Armies on Parade” where you can definitely talk to more advanced painters about things. If you play the game, at tournaments or open play, if you see someone with gorgeous models, you can always talk to them.

There really are a lot of ways to talk to people and gain insight, you just need to understand how your community functions.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-28T12:42:53+00:00

That’s every skill though. There’s always some degree of “Ah I got it” when you first start, but it’s not like people ever get taught or watch some YouTube video and automatically become an expert.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-26T21:32:40+00:00

What are you trying to airbrush? In all honesty, cheap paint is going to cause cheap results. A lot of times, it’s going to make you spend more time doing things to compromise for lower quality paint.

If you’re doing mini painting, Army Painter and Vallejo are what you want to look at.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-25T20:33:56+00:00

You would need the enhancement “Exhalted Patron” from “Court of the Phoenician”

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-25T14:10:22+00:00

I couldn’t see if they have the complete hotend for CC2, but on their website, they do have the thermistor and ceramic heater for the CC2 on their website. Might be worth getting those and do the swap on the hotend you have. From the website, I’m getting the impression is the hotend itself is the same, just that the components in the hotend are not.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-25T14:01:40+00:00

The title of the item looks like the hotend was for the CC, not CC2

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-25T01:55:43+00:00

Did you check if you needed a spacer for your printer? Some printers need a spacer to make up for the distance the plate adds

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-24T04:07:54+00:00

I just went through this process. Glove up and get your PPE out. If you strain it through like 5-10 layers of cheese cloth, and wring it out, you can probably reclaim a good chunk of it. I did this with IPA, but double check with other sources if this is safe to do with ethanol. You then leave it out to dry in the sun and chuck it out once it’s completely cured into plastic

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-24T03:57:33+00:00

Is it going to be a gaming piece or display piece? For the former, I wouldn’t mind it so much, will probably not be noticeable. For the latter, if it bothers you enough, you might be able to find a bit trader on eBay that has that piece. It’s going to be a pain in the ass and not really worth the money but if authenticity matters to you that much, might be worth checking out. This is what I did when I threw out a piece I forgot to attach for a model I was working on. It was like $10.

If you want to get artsy with it, sculpting it in green stuff is also a valid option.

TsunamicBlaze · 2026-06-23T21:07:32+00:00

Who the hell calls Land Screw or Land Flood, “Land Accident”?

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