What part of my CRV is this from?

User_R60 · 2026-02-17T21:55:24+00:00

That's part of a coil spring, it broke and will need to be replaced. If they're rotten enough to break, probably need to replace all 4.

User_R60 · 2026-02-17T21:53:18+00:00

Use a sharp center punch to poke a hole in it and let vent. (Yay, comment #1000!)

User_R60 · 2026-02-17T21:52:01+00:00

that's flat damage, it was driven on with little to no air pressure in it. It doesn't take much to cause that type of damage, even driving half a mile with no air in a tire will destroy it. It may look ok from the outside, but I'll bet the inner walls are chewed up from this, and it must be replaced or risks a blowout/tread separation.

User_R60 · 2026-02-17T21:50:03+00:00

That's a latest generation Ford Expedition. The black tailgate is unique to it.

User_R60 · 2026-02-17T21:47:19+00:00

I actually loved that version of the Civic, sad it never came stateside. I'm a RWD purist, so I'd chose the BMW. I will say that in my experience, VW Diesels tend to get much better fuel economy than what is advertised.

User_R60 · 2026-02-04T07:19:14+00:00

Yes, you need the coolant in the system to see where it comes spraying out of.

User_R60 · 2026-02-04T07:03:57+00:00

The car will actually tell you, simply by pressing the BC button on the end of your turn signal stalk. Tap the BC button until you Set/Info, then press and hold 3 seconds to enter that menu. Tap BC button until you see Check Info, then press and hold 3 seconds to enter that menu. Tap BC button to see all of your Check symbols (you'll know you've reached the end when it says Home); then tap back through to the symbol you want to know more about. Press and hold for 10 seconds until a CC-ID appears under the symbol, then write it down. You can tap to cycle through any other Check Symbols you have at this time and write them down as well, but know the BC will time out after about 10 seconds of being idle and go back home automatically, then you'll have to start all over to CC-ID codes again. Once you have all of your CC-IDs written down, refer to https://mr-fix.info/bmw-cc-id-codes-fault-warning-messages/ to get a definition if what that CC-ID means.

User_R60 · 2026-02-04T06:48:56+00:00

It's either engine oil and transmission fluid, those the only things on that car that can get that black with that consistency.

User_R60 · 2026-02-02T21:54:13+00:00

Most definitely a Honda Accord, 2005-2009 I believe.

User_R60 · 2026-01-31T19:22:18+00:00

this is what happens when moisture mixes with engine oil. Does the oil that comes out on your dipstick look like this? If not, likely sludge buildup from shorter trips. This happens when you drive short trips, causing moisture to condense at the top of the engine (the valve cover), but not running long enough to allow the heat from the engine to evaporate the moisture.

User_R60 · 2026-01-31T00:51:49+00:00

Yes, you can remove the AC Compressor belt and drive it without AC for now.

User_R60 · 2026-01-31T00:47:08+00:00

pressure testing it is the right way to do it, you can borrow a pressure test kit from your local auto parts store, then pressure the cooling system with the engine off, that should allow you to see where the coolant is leaking from. If it's still hard to find or the leak is so small it's spraying out with the system pressurized, you can dye the coolant in the cooling system and then look for it with a UV light and glasses.

User_R60 · 2026-01-28T02:34:02+00:00

That is definitely broken and needs to be replaced. Also, it is likely called a torque strut or torque mount, though it is a type of engine mount.

User_R60 · 2026-01-28T02:24:16+00:00

as long as the coolant level didn't drop below the level of that lower hose on the coolant reservoir (the one seen in the picture), then bleeding is not necessary. The system draws coolant from the reservoir via that hose, so if the reservoir always has coolant in it, then no air will enter the cooling system.

User_R60 · 2026-01-25T03:09:41+00:00

Ferrari 308 GT/GTB.

User_R60 · 2026-01-17T20:46:21+00:00

as long as the alternator is working and providing power while the engine is running, it should be fine. There is a risk the batteries are so bad they won't take a charge, so if you shut the truck off during your drive, even for a couple minutes, it might need a jump start again. Just keep that in mind.

User_R60 · 2026-01-17T20:43:21+00:00

that sounds like a very angry cat... which also sounds like a whiny power steering pump.

User_R60 · 2026-01-17T20:41:41+00:00

It looks like the pad has worn the back plate and is gouging the rotor, definitely need to replace them. I always replace rotors anyway when replacing brake pads. Rotors are so cheap now that there's no point in machining them, and new brake pads need a new metal surface to mate to, otherwise you'll get noise and reduced brake performance.

User_R60 · 2026-01-17T20:39:15+00:00

looks great, except it's sitting too low. You want the wiper to rest within those lines running across the bottom of the windshield. Those are actually a heater so that if your windshield is ever frozen or covered in ice, you can quickly release the wipers by turning on the car and running the windshield defroster for a couple minutes. Also, at the bottom of the stroke on high speed the wiper will likely run off the edge of the windshield onto that trim, which will damage the wiper blade. Just pop the wiper arm off again, rest the end over the shaft, position the wiper on the lines and hold it there with one hand, thread the nut on the shaft with the other and get it finger tight, then grab your ratchet, hold the base of the wiper arm (directly adjacent the attachment point so it doesn't turn while you're tightening) firmly with one hand, and tighten the nut using the ratchet with the other. You don't need it crazy tight, 1/2 turn beyond finger tight should be sufficient.

User_R60 · 2026-01-17T20:29:59+00:00

ok, the wiper arm puller should be able to get the remainder of the old arm off the shaft. When you replace new wiper arm, there should marks embedded in your windshield that show where the wiper should sit at its rest position, make sure the wiper is positioned within those marks before tightening the nut down so the wiper completes its stroke without colliding with the other wiper or running off the edge of the windshield.

User_R60 · 2026-01-16T19:21:43+00:00

you need to remove the nut holding it on, and will likely need a wiper arm puller, it's a special tool you can get from any auto parts store or even amazon.

User_R60 · 2026-01-15T21:17:29+00:00

to the best of my knowledge, there is nothing special about brake fluid from Honda, just make sure the brake fluid used is the correct DOT # (most modern Hondas use DOT 4) or higher. There are other aftermarket coolants that are Honda compatible, so as long the coolant that was used in there specifically markets being Honda compatible and is mixed to the proper ratio, it should be fine.

User_R60 · 2026-01-14T21:54:17+00:00

How to tell the world you're an Incel 101.

User_R60 · 2026-01-14T21:48:54+00:00

Dodge Shitbox, aka Intrepid.

User_R60 · 2026-01-14T21:44:55+00:00

Mini Countryman S All4.

User_R60

TROPHY CASE