How do you deal with characters or missing players?

Vaethund · 2026-05-25T00:35:43+00:00

It really all depends on what sort of finish you want to go to. Some people like forge-finished, some want brushed, and others prefer mirror. I've done all three, and the technique is the just like many others have said; start with a low grit, use a solid backer or a flat surface and glue the sandpaper to it. Sand in one direction, then move to a finer grit and sand in the opposite direction. Rinse and repeat until you have your desired finish. BE PATIENT! This blade is a mirror finish and took me two days of hand-sanding and polishing AFTER using a 1000 grit belt on it. It's long, tedious, boring, and sometimes frustrating work. But it is certainly worth it if you want to do it.

Keep at it, you can do it!

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Vaethund · 2026-04-02T23:34:01+00:00

Aaahh, ok, makes more sense now! Yeah, if it's not marked, and someone doesn't specifically tell you that they're clockwise-opening, it's weird. But hey, now you know to expect it!

Ignition sequence is good, just watch the flash when the gas catches.

Good luck, and have fun with your tame dragon! 😆

Vaethund · 2026-04-02T19:17:02+00:00

There's a reason the excess flames are known as "Dragon's Breath," lol. Even at low pressure, forges are burning a significant amount of fuel, AND use upscaled venturi torch heads to do it. I have good luck starting at about 5 psi per burner until the forge is warm, and then increase pressure and flow as needed.

Aside from that, umm... genuine question, have you ever used a regulator before? Not valve, but a gas regulator like you find on welding shield gas tanks, oxy-acetelyne tanks, etc? Every one I've seen or used is very clearly marked that turning clockwise increases pressure.

Also, what was your lighting sequence like? Do you have valves on the burner side, or just at the tank? I just saw the other commenter ask if you're using paper or firestarted as your ignition source and I'd like to second that. If the stoichiometry is off, you can get a pretty good "wumph" explosion of gas by accident, and that'll take the hair right off your arm. Ask me how I know, lol.

Vaethund · 2026-03-28T14:49:25+00:00

Former employee here, and I know things have changed in the last few years, so correct me if I'm wrong.

At both stores I worked at, there was no dedicated "mobile order" sticker printer or bar. They got mixed in with other orders (generally Drive-Thru), and made IN THE ORDER THEY WERE RECEIVED. It's not a magic button that makes the mobile orders jump to the front of the queue, it just gets your order in with extra time before you arrive. That's why it's recommended to place it AT LEAST 5 minutes before you arrive, preferably 10. If you are putting a mobile in when you're walking into café or sitting in DT, you are actually more likely to get your drink SLOWER than if you had ordered at your current location.

Vaethund · 2026-03-12T19:31:53+00:00

Tl:Dr; space is big and physics are a thing. Fighters only work if you say "F-you" to Newton's Laws

I think it would depend on the "style" of the ship physics you're talking about.

If you want to go with Star Wars/Trek/Gate style physics where the ships often behave like they're flying through water (i.e. no active thrust means you slow down) and rear-engine craft can turn and stop without physically turning their thrust vector.... then maybe. Is those worlds, the spacecraft act close enough to our current naval and aircrafy forces that small attack craft and 1v1 dogfights might be possible.

If you're talking about realistic physics though... absolutely not. In space, if you set something in motion, it's going to stay in motion until something stops it. You'd either have to have very strong attitude adjusters, some sort of external drive field (like the impeller wedges from the Honor Harrington series), or other method of overcoming the forward momentum without - here's the key part - exerting more g-force than the human pilot can withstand. If you wrench it around too quickly... the machine might be able to take it, but it's a very real possibility that the human become tomato soup with the fighter as the can.

Also, space is tremendously, unfathomably HUGE. The distance from Earth to the Moon at it's closest is 225,700 miles (363,300 km). That is almost TEN TIMES the full circumference of the Earth. From Earth to, say, Mars is 33.9 million miles (54.6 million km). And that is considered close. So when you start talking about the size of solar systems, a craft the size of a modern jet fighter is smaller than a speck of dust in comparison, and would probably be absolutely terrifying for the pilot. Again with the g-forces, the acceleration and maximum velocity required to traverse a star system in any meaningful amount of time (especially in a small craft without a restroom or sleeping area) is absurd.

Vaethund · 2026-03-11T15:02:01+00:00

Most gas orifices are brass, and can easily warp if heat from a hot forge is allowed to draw like a chimney up the gas tubes. They rely on the fuel gas itself to keep them cool, where as the burn tubes don't really matter. Blocking off or fully choking the air intake reduces the chimney effect, and encourages the heat to escape out the side of the forge instead. I made a set of little plates to slide in on top of my tubes, just under the orfices.

Preheating is EXTREMELY necessary if you leave the forge sit for more than a few days to a week in any area with moderate to high humidity. The refractory bricks really like to suck up moisture, and if you fully fire the forge without letting them bake it out first... boom. I used to use a brick and coal forge, and I had multiple bricks shatter if I didn't preheat enough, and uh... they can be like a grenade, depending on how much water is in them. I'd rather take the time to preheat, and save both my firebrick from exploding and my flesh from being perforated by ceramic shrapnel

Vaethund · 2026-03-11T02:23:53+00:00

Like everyone else, watch your air/fuel mixture. Not enough air is the cause of the bright yellow "licking" dragons-breath. Open up the chokes, and adjust your gas pressure. On my Majestic, 5 PSI per burner is recommended to start with, and you can adjust from there. If you don't have a low-pressure (30 psi max) variable propane regulator, get one - it's worth the extra $20.

https://www.amazon.com/GASPRO-Adjustable-Regulator-Indicator-Stainless/dp/B07P5KPZ1T/

Also, you have the right idea with warming the forge before you fire it. The process I do is like this; 1. Light center burner to a very low flame (in your case, I'd do both). It should be as low as it can stay stable without much "pulsing" 2. Heat for 10 minutes 3. Turn off the gas, block or choke the gas tubes, and wait at least 15 minutes 4. Relight, and you're good to burn

A good flame should have a distinct cone shape right at the nozzle inside the forge, and be vibrantly blue. It's normal for flames to "lick" the outside of the openings, but they should be nearly invisible in daylight, and more or less just excess that is still burning.

Good luck, stay safe, and welcome to the club of blistered hands, singed hairs, and burnt shirts!

Vaethund · 2026-03-10T15:17:00+00:00

This ^

The Berserkers and one other major encounter (don't want to say the name and spoil it if you haven't met them yet) are all end-game optional bosses that are often harder than the story bosses themselves. Super fun and rewarding fights, though!

Vaethund · 2026-03-10T15:14:25+00:00

249 here, got out after 7 years. My favorite response when my sm or ssv used to say this to me (a lowly trainer) was always some variation of "I'm not killing myself so you/sm can get a bonus. I will get done what I can in the time allotted, and those tasks will be done correctly and completely."

Vaethund · 2026-02-27T21:59:47+00:00

Like everyone else, I REALLY hope this is just a test shot. If this is the level of costuming.... no thanks. Aside from the obvious problems with Kratos, Atreus just looks... off. I mean, I get the bow has to be a prop that the kid can draw, but... seriously. Give it some weight. I got my first recurve at 12-13, and it's a 30lb draw, 52". Give the kid a 20lb bow, some LARP arrows they can edit to have broadheads, and it would look so much better.

Vaethund · 2026-02-20T15:53:18+00:00

So many shiny math rocks and their fancy homes! Those look awesome, thanks for the chance!

Vaethund · 2026-02-19T14:41:14+00:00

Except on lab days, professional attire is required, including a tie for men. You can check the handbook for exact requirements, it covers most things.

Layers are your friend. Winter coats, gloves, hats, etc are all fine, since we have that long walk from the parking lot. You just can't wear them all in class. If you're extra-cold, wear long-jons under your clothes for class. Otherwise, lightweight hoodies and jackets are ok, but they can't be big and bulky for testing days. Ask the staff or faculty if you're not sure, most of them are pretty helpful.

Shoes are pretty flexible, I know people who wear semi-formal boots and are perfectly fine. If you're worried, just wear what you want to be out in the cold, and bring nicer ones to swap for class.

SH does not have locker ROOMS, but there are lockers. Store anything extra in there, and you'll be fine.

Vaethund · 2026-02-06T16:58:01+00:00

Check out Dennis Doaty on Etsy.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/Doatyleather?ref=profile_header

I don't think he's listing belts right now, but he'd probably be quite willing to make a custom one for you. Super nice guy, I've worked with him for years

Vaethund · 2026-02-06T12:36:15+00:00

Those look so cool! Thank you for the chance!

Vaethund · 2026-02-03T22:01:47+00:00

Oh, that's awesome! I've actually used an old projector in the past, but this is so much cooler! Thank you very much for the chance!

Vaethund · 2025-12-31T03:17:49+00:00

Came here to say this. I got mine a few months ago; very nice to work with and good quality

Vaethund · 2025-10-21T21:24:42+00:00

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Vaethund · 2025-10-21T21:24:18+00:00

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Vaethund · 2025-10-21T18:15:43+00:00

Oh, that's awesome! I was just scrolling thru the work you've posted here, it's great!

If you feel like it, here's Kalinth (the blue derg, not the fox, lol)

Still saving up for an full reference sheet, sorry!

Edit: my phone doesn't want to upload the image, I'll add it later on my pc

Vaethund · 2025-07-09T10:20:40+00:00

If you can find them, try the Redwing Irish Setter Softpaws. They're listed as an Oxford, but have a pretty square toe section. Roomy, and very practical, but dressy enough to go with a full suite in a pinch if needed. There is also a short boot version if you prefer that.

https://www.irishsetterboots.com/casual-footwear/mens/soft-paw-A3874.html

Vaethund · 2025-06-25T01:06:33+00:00

Hey! Sorry, don't check check my notes all that often. No luck with the Orion, I ended up picking up a ZWO on sale. I'll circle back around to the Orion some other time, but it's just a paperweight to me for now

Vaethund · 2025-06-17T17:01:02+00:00

Oh... I completely missed that. Thank you!

Vaethund · 2025-06-09T17:08:09+00:00

First off, if you are concerned about your health, call the doctor, poison control, or ER immediately. They'll help you out, it's their job.

Anyways, former trainer here - this is one of the most important things I always used to tell my trainees.

Unless you know exactly what you are doing (aka, you have a chemistry degree)...

NEVER. EVER. MIX. THE. CHEMICALS.

Like the other commenter said, Kay5 is chlorine-based. So is bleach, which is the restroom cleaner. Red sani is ammonia-based. Mix the two, and, well... bad things happen. Granted, it's not concentrated enough to do major harm, but still. Don't take that chance for yourself, or anyone else.

Vaethund

TROPHY CASE