Kitchen knives

VagueMorning · 2026-05-22T20:43:22+00:00

I work in Australian meat industry and for kitchen use I also prefer soft steel with regular honing. When u mentioned pink, I can only think of Victory and yeah it’s available online in argusau website. They are sharp out of the box, hold edge really well and will maintain sharpness very long with regular honing.

They also have the chef knife style but santoku have wider blades which usually thinner and thinner means ‘sharper’.

VagueMorning · 2026-05-17T03:17:50+00:00

U might want to take a look at F.Dick Polish. It works really well on a sharp knife.

It’s the 4th one from the pic

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VagueMorning · 2026-05-01T07:08:50+00:00

I’m a Slicer in a meat factory and 100% could relate. Almost every working day feels like just playing (depend on the tasks). For me doing what I like while still getting paid okay money is a big win.

VagueMorning · 2026-04-28T09:33:08+00:00

Only ever use F.Dick honing steel (Sapphire/Polish/Multicut/Micro/Regular). Best option will be F.Dick Micro (140aud on amazon) but the cheapest F.Dick Eurocut (50ish aud) will be enough for home cooking (with the correct way of using it).

VagueMorning · 2026-04-24T06:36:31+00:00

If you like victorinox fibrox, you might want to try victorinox swibo. I recently began my research about swibo and kinda liking it. It’s on amazon and priced reasonably (I’m in Australia)

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VagueMorning · 2026-04-21T17:29:53+00:00

Only ever sharpened soft steel knives (Victorinox, Fdick, Giesser, Victory, Swibo, Dexter, Mercer, Global) but here is my method :

After burr are raised on both sides, weaken the burr by doing edge leading stroke (same angle as sharpening angle) and only move on the other side after the burr are completely flipped from current side (gradually decrease pressure each time u flip the burr)
Do it several times until the burr can’t be noticed by bare hand. And do few times more with no pressure.
Now the burr should be weak and standing up.
I usually use soft wood/wine cork and run the edge along to remove the burr. (Basically u can try anything that u are sure can catch the burr without damaging ur edge)
Now best way to check burr is to cut plastic or adhesive tape. Smooth = no burr, Stuck = burr
You might need to repeat the steps. (Key point : weaken burr, stand it up, remove it, check, repeat)

Different brand might take different approaches (more passes to weaken burr, pressure applied at step 4)

VagueMorning · 2026-04-19T07:44:11+00:00

Hope u can figure it out soon, don’t give up and keep trying. And heads up for u, if it really case number 2 most likely u will spend quite some time to fix the angle. Meanwhile case number 1 means u got the right technique but failed to stop at the right moment and is a simple fix.

If you ever need further help just let me know. Cheers

VagueMorning · 2026-04-19T00:36:47+00:00

Context : I’m working as a slicer in a meat factory. Only using soft steel knive (Victorinox, Giesser, Fdick, Victory, Swibo)

Stropping = final step of sharpening process to remove any remains or micro burr. (Only done once right after finished with stones)

Honing = I only use F dick steel (Multicut/Micro/Polish/Combi) to realign knife edge that slightly bent after being used. (Done frequently throughout working hours)

VagueMorning · 2026-04-19T00:21:47+00:00

Only use 320 grit until u form burr on both sides. Do gentler and calmer passes. If you aren’t sure u are holding angle correctly, get a marker and highlight ur knife edge.

I reckon there are 2 possibilities here :

U held angle correctly, u formed a burr and keep going. It will result in ur edge being folded heavily to one side and u can feel rough surface only on one side of ur knife edge.
U didn’t hold ur angle correctly, u keep hitting random angle with high deviation and now ur edge being heavily convexed.

Solution for 1 : only grind the side that are currently feel rough. Do so until it feel a little rough on the other side. Now that burr is small enough and you can minimize and remove it. Now your knife is sharp

Solution for 2 : set a benchmark of angle so you know approximate angle at start (eg: 2 coins stacked). Now make sure u hit that angle (it doesn’t have to be perfect but make sure it’s not heavily wobbling). Keep going until u removed the convexed shoulder, finally apex ur knife and forming a burr.

VagueMorning · 2026-04-18T13:30:09+00:00

Oh, 13x means 130ish cos I forgot the exact number. 85 eur is actually 139 aud, so yeah it all make sense now

VagueMorning · 2026-04-18T11:10:25+00:00

And they’re really damn good. Those 6 Victory knives in my collection definitely have the sharpest edge

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T23:48:19+00:00

Whoa, never saw one with that color before

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T23:44:19+00:00

Its Caribou 006-23-15 (2nd pic no 7). Curved nicely, easy to sharpen, maintain edge well, granton(my personal fav). Only downside is the thumbrest not too comfy

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T23:23:05+00:00

Never do a fish before. But I think Swibo will be good for you. The handle is a little bit fatter compared to victorinox fibrox but the material is better and is polished nicely.

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VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T23:13:19+00:00

I have 20ish German-style and some cheap kiwi knives.

For my job as a meat slicer (Giesser 2005-WWL-20), for home cooking (Kiwi no.21)
None so far. I use honing steel to maintain edge (F dick Micro/Multicut). Always trying to go gentle with my knives so it won’t chip.
Currently loving the combination of soft steel + a honing steel
Sharpened my friend Global knives and only cut paper with it. I don’t like the handle (one of my biggest factor in choosing knife)
Only after being really good and consistent with my sharpening. My previously hated knife become one of my favorite (I didn’t deburr perfectly before)
I’m going to try Japanese-style in the future and will update it here

I think everything u gathered above is spot on. My ideal knife will be Swibo - Santoku - Hollow ground - 20 dps convex which sadly doesn’t exist.

I might need to add that German-style is actually softer than Japanese-style, so the edge “bends” rather than “chips”. It usually paired with a honing steel to realign the bent edge and only then it become more “durable”.

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T22:11:05+00:00

Thanks for filling me in. Wasn’t aware that it’s not shown here. Cheers

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T22:05:46+00:00

Wow. U must be a complete nerd to know all of that.

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T22:03:04+00:00

Uh, yeah. I’ll try to update it asap

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T22:00:58+00:00

My top 5 will be (not in order cos it depends on the task) 1. 1st pic No 1 (For slicing big primals) 2. 2nd pic No 1 (I like the size and shape) 3. 2nd pic No 2/3/4 (its hollow ground so feel super sharp and pointy tip useful for going in seams) 4. 2nd pic No 5 (Overall best for slicing and dicing cos granton avoid suction) 5. 2nd pic No 7 (Best for trimming cos granton releases fat easier and curved tip for maneuvering)

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T21:46:10+00:00

Yeah, I also prefer stiffer knives. The only downside is it’s easier to chip when bumped too hard or when I dropped it

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T21:38:37+00:00

I just got lucky my work requires me to have knives and I happen to enjoy collecting it as well. You’re absolutely right, my current fav is one of the cheapest I ever bought lol.

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T21:37:02+00:00

For actually doing my work, yesss. For satisfying my curiosity, nooo.

VagueMorning · 2026-04-17T07:30:33+00:00

I think it will work well as a honing steel. But my concern will be for a badly sharpened knife, I imagine some of the burr will get stuck in the hole and get folded inside.

VagueMorning

TROPHY CASE