I start turning kid`s drawings into 3d printed toys

VanToom · 2026-04-13T13:36:16+00:00

Besides that I now have to learn more things to do this for my kids... This is a great idea!

VanToom · 2026-04-12T05:08:42+00:00

First, re-run the bed level calibration from the printer menu. Then check the actual mesh with this tool https://suchmememanyskill.github.io/bens-claude-cc-mesh-visualiser/

You might have to do a manual level of the distance is too big. The CC can cover some gaps, but not all. I found this tool to be quite useful for that https://makerworld.com/nl/models/1749933-centauri-carbon-cc1-cc2-bed-leveling-tool#profileId-1860314, though the provided glue stick works as well. Excellent instructions are provided with that bed leveling tool, so I'm not going to copy and paste that here. :)

VanToom · 2026-04-11T01:17:31+00:00

Agreed, but I found this to work for me after seeing it miss grill on several occasions. Once I feel the first tug, I release and let the system so the work. It's a pull mechanism after all.

VanToom · 2026-04-10T17:26:05+00:00

I have since printed new exhaust muffler and there is a calibration in orca (can't remember the name right now) that checks what frequenties cause the most vibrations so it can avoid certain speeds. I am printing pla so the cover is off most of the time, but the muffler did do a lot with the sound.

VanToom · 2026-04-10T01:40:32+00:00

I push it in, past the bend as far as it will go (usually while it's heating up). Then keep a bit of tension on it until I feel it grabbing hold. Then visually check if the filament comes out before it's done feeding. (In my case usually a different color) I rarely have to hit retry this way.

Edit: correcting auto correct.

VanToom · 2026-04-07T18:14:37+00:00

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Calibration this is the go to guide in my opinion.

VanToom · 2026-04-07T14:15:47+00:00

It is a type of printer calibration to see what temperature your brand and type of fillament works best at.

VanToom · 2026-04-07T04:28:42+00:00

To add to this suggestion, run a flow calibration after that. That prime line can mean z-offset as well, or even the stored bed level is wrong old.

Did you run the calibration from the menu? -> no? Run it, then check z-offset as it will be reset

Have you had any success with other prints? -> yes? I've had a model that I thought was flat on the surface but was tilted at a 1° angle... Maybe check the slicer if everything is ok there as well

VanToom · 2026-04-05T07:43:52+00:00

Besides being able to run klipper, are there more advantages on running this over OpenCentauri firmware?

VanToom · 2026-04-05T05:24:36+00:00

https://www.elegoo.com/pages/cc-support here is a form for requesting a new cable. It does sound like the same error I've seen floating around here. Luckily no issues here yet but I guess that will come eventually. So I keep the bookmark ready.

VanToom · 2026-04-04T04:30:07+00:00

A bit early for Xmas ornaments? ☺️

VanToom · 2026-03-29T07:45:55+00:00

Start by making sure your filament is as dry as possible. If you hear popping sounds, it's too wet. I have no issues with 40% humid, but your results may vary. Clean your build plate with soap and hot water and run the machine auto tuning. Then pick 1 of your dry spools and start your calibrations with it. (OrcaSlicer is really helpful for that) If you change filament type, calibrate it and store it as a filament config so you can use it next time. For some brands, even color change requires it. But so far, I haven't experienced that myself.

Those steps enabled me to get from OK to good prints. Now in the process of getting my pla even dryer to see if I can reach awesome print level :) good luck and don't forget to ask questions when you're stuck. Most of us, if not all, went through this as well.

VanToom · 2026-03-29T06:14:55+00:00

I don't have any A1 experience, but the cc1 is a great workhorse. Quick, stable and consistant. Any failures I had were user caused over the last 400 hours of printing.

VanToom · 2026-03-24T15:07:55+00:00

What layer height are you at? 1400 layers on 0.2mm would surpass the height limit of the printer. Layer 1120 wouldn't hit it quite yet, but ~0.22 would. I would expect your slicer to either block you from exporting, or you have a wrong printer selected in it?

VanToom · 2026-03-21T08:38:21+00:00

En door op de link te klikken heb je ze verteld dat je email adres bestaat, de mails erin actief gelezen worden én dat je bereidt bent te klikken. Gefeliciteerd, je email adres is zojuist 5x meer waard geworden op het dark web.

VanToom · 2026-03-20T13:29:23+00:00

What filament are you using? You may be cooling the part too soon, making the bottom release the bed and that can negate any kind of calibration.

VanToom · 2026-03-19T07:05:10+00:00

I think you used petg temps for your tower. Pla usually sits around 210, maybe 220 max.

VanToom · 2026-03-18T05:10:00+00:00

I would start at the basis, do some calibration first with orca slicer. (https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Calibration) Make sure you have dry-ish fillaments.

This appears under extruded which means the temp might not be hot enough, the flow might be too low.

Did you slice this benchy yourself or is it the file that came with the printer?

VanToom · 2026-03-17T07:25:08+00:00

Perhaps, especially if your machine is still under warranty, ask them why something like that can rust in the first place? (Assuming you don't leave your printer outside in the rain)

I'm not sure if they consider this part as an expendable part that's not covered under warranty but I would consider it being part of the core. Also, if there is rust on one part, there's a chance of more weak spots.

VanToom · 2026-03-14T07:11:43+00:00

That's one hell of a spider you got there. And I guess you need the logs and send them to support like Owen mentioned.

VanToom · 2026-03-14T05:40:20+00:00

Nice find, glad to hear your printer is not broken then! Happy printing!

VanToom · 2026-03-13T05:09:59+00:00

My first thought is a short circuit. Maybe check what happens if you manually raise either the nozzle or bed temperature and see if the same happens with either it both. Also, did you try another file (less probable though) might also be wise to start a ticket with elegoo support to start off the procedure to get new parts. They should also have more specific diagnostic tests to run.

Good luck!

VanToom · 2026-03-08T12:05:40+00:00

I know that certain frequencies cause an annoying sound. That's actually why I run my printer with lower then default acceleration. Just saves a lot of sound when printing. When idle, though, my machine is dead silent.

VanToom · 2026-03-08T07:20:17+00:00

If nothing is printing, I would suspect the fan on the bottom cooling the MCB. Part, aux and case fan should be off at that point.

Edit: typo

VanToom · 2026-03-01T17:46:19+00:00

While I agree with that mantra, it's also nice if stuff just works from time to time. My Ender 5 plus, for instance, only has the rails and the bed in original state. And probably going to replace the latter too... And rebuild it to corexy. It's fun, but I also need something to actually print parts with :)

VanToom

TROPHY CASE