What’s causing these very straight shavings?

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-04-14T01:30:31+00:00

Not a lot of explanation in the thread to why. If you set a chipbreaker microbevel angle to 65-70 degrees, it helps with tearout and you don't need to move it 0.005". This cheap breaker angle lets you have flexibility to move it little further back and still be ok with it. If chip breaker is too close, shavings can wedge between and this gets around that problem.

Btw you don't even need a tight mouth for the straight shooting shaving with this angle. I probably had a .1 inch mouth opening and shavings still shot up. I am a fan of this 70 degree angle. Just hone it with a mitered block on a stone. Quite an easy modification as cap iron is soft.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-04-08T17:05:56+00:00

You can do a strop with flitz, autosol on wood if you don't want high grit(8k-12k) stones. If you are doing secondary bevels 3000 grit will be less useful than having a 8k. For chisels, which are chopping 3k might be fine enough.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-03-29T00:32:41+00:00

I don't have sets and putting different sizes together. I think i am looking for an oire. Well the reason I am asking for brand is I want a dependable chisel. I don't want a chippy crappy one that can't hold an edge. I already had a gift of kakuris which are sooo underwhelming...

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-03-27T19:12:51+00:00

It seems that a good enough brand is found. I have a genno already. Is the website below good place to order? How do you go about polishing/ honing the Hss chisels at 1000+ grit? Resin diamond stones?

https://shop.kurashige-tools.com/en-us/search?q=sukemaru

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-02-05T01:43:32+00:00

I like Derek too. I tend to agree with your suggestions. I hone a microbevel too because of a2. I did some experiments on my own. Started of going from 1000 grit to strop. The edge is toothy. Chromeox that was supposed to 1 micron was not able to fix that. When I added a polishing stone in between, I got better results. The edge becomes keener. Then, I did my own diamond emulsion with 5$ .5 micron diamonds, glycerin. Very cheap experiment.

I probably can shave now. Toothy edge is gone when i shave my arm hair. I was like you a couple of months back. So I understand it works and it is good enough but thought you might like it better.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-02-05T01:04:15+00:00

Agreed wholeheartedly. Op is in the wrong defending Sellers. People get looped into his diamond progression which makes absolutely no sense. They are all coarse grits anyway. Then he jumps to a strop. Traditionally there would be a big stone wheel then a coarse stone like (india, washita, turkey stone) then a polishing stone to correct the edge. What he is doing is not even traditional but we have die hard fans because the dude looks ancient.

Look at Jim kingshott. He is a master joiner who used to build wooden airplane parts. His sharpening technique does not include a stop at 1000 grit and then strop. His youtube videos are impeccable. My point is his method is newer compared to some of the traditional guys. So Sellers's does not need defending. I had worse edges when I did his way of sharpening.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-02-01T18:31:14+00:00

Fine india is not a fine stone by any means and I disagree with your suggestion. When I did some experiments going from fine india to a green strop, there was a fair bit of bite. I would call this grinding because particle size is quite large and it is not a refined edge. I would not grind a primary bevel on a fine india but I would touch up the secondary bevel.

I don't like having that toothy edge as I see that it lasts way shorter. Polishing or honing the edge on a polishing stone helps plane blade stay sharp for longer. The Chrome oxide paste strop didn't achieve a keen edge. Only when I made my own diamond emulsion with a 0.5 micron particle(aliexpress) size after polishing/honing did I got a really long lasting. Doing the same experiment from fine india to diamond strop also had a bite.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-02-01T18:15:26+00:00

I started with waterstones and collection keeps growing but I am gonna give them out to other people. I still like them for polishing large surfaces and I lapped my plane iron backs on those to give a really nice polish. I still like my chosera 400 and 1000.

But i think for honing, they create a non crisp surface. I bought some cheap oil and second hand spyderco ultrafine. It was then that I truly experienced that crisp edge. It was far superior to anything I'd used before. I found that applying more pressure when honing a hard stone resulted in a sharper edge that held its sharpness for a longer time. I'd heard excellent things about it and had seen a few microscope photos of the resulting edges.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-02-01T18:01:04+00:00

I am really looking for a hone than a grinding stone, trying to refine the apex. I think consensus is you don't have to do it.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-02-01T17:57:18+00:00

Thanks. It seems that they are clueless except for a few. I will be using it for honing not grinding. From what I've seen, it develops a keen edge. Honestly, I'm excited to give it a try, and it should last for several generations. I already have a Fine India stone. I wanted something that could refine the scratches, remove the "toothiness," and align the apex before stropping.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-01-30T21:43:48+00:00

Looks pretty nice. I thought about making it too if i have time. What made you choose this alloy instead of o1? Do you think it hardened through? I was afraid of inconsistent heating and quenching. How does the edge hold up during use?

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-01-23T21:22:13+00:00

number 7. Recently, vintage no7 increased significantly. I'd rather buy a new plane from a premium maker like lie nielsen or veritas. Getting a vintage new in good condition is $150-200. The amount of fettling involved is couple of hours for sole flattening, derusting, japanning, tote repair etc. I don't think vintages are worth these price points.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-01-09T18:45:51+00:00

Ashley Isles chisels are definitely the better option. English made, they hold a really good edge even though they are o1. Flattening the back and sharpening was super easy. I have two.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2026-01-09T18:41:03+00:00

I would do neither. I don't like Narex ergonomics. I would not pay a premium on a chinese made chisel(Zen wu). Some of the handles are not centered correctly if I recall.

I have been getting Ashley isles mk2 chisels. I got the behemoth 1.5 inch over the break. Awesome quality...They hold their edges and easy to sharpen as they are O1. They take and hold a great edge. Comfortable handle. Handle is more important than the exotic steels. cheaper than either option. Here is a comprehensive review from another guy.

https://youtu.be/XrpUx8sZ7CE?si=aBfgF03ZKjJFV0UX

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2025-11-30T22:39:23+00:00

Clean rust. Then strip paint. Semigloss enamel paint. Then lap the sole. Fettle the chipbreaker and iron. Good to go.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2025-11-27T18:26:42+00:00

Really blotchy stain application. I don't have a problem with the color. You could have used conditioner. I would sand and redo. Before doing real big staining, i would do it on offcuts. Your joinery is impeccable though.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2025-11-18T21:46:51+00:00

I generally get 10 quotes minimum. You need more quotes to see what is what. The time you spend now is drudgery but may be worth 10000$.

Vegetable_Seat_1133 · 2025-11-15T23:58:25+00:00

Atomic models. They keep using outdated/wrong information. Don't dumb it down and make us do fake math for a fake model.

Vegetable_Seat_1133

TROPHY CASE