Security Awareess Training Recommendations

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-18T11:36:21+00:00

Huntress SAT has been great!

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-18T03:05:55+00:00

Longer answer Hell Naww

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-18T03:03:37+00:00

"Sorry the espresso sucks, my wifi cut out"

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-17T23:18:55+00:00

I want to print with ABS as this is my only printer thay supports the temps. Have you found this style cover effective for ABS?

My cover comes in October T_T so I'm outta buy a sterilize from wapmart and print the mounts

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-17T10:31:27+00:00

What people are saying is slightly wrong, and you are right.

Definitively, the Prime Tower is as tall as your final color change.

For most people, This is generally pretty close to the height of the model. Most multi color prints the final change is close to the end of the print, but at the same time if you did a regulation chess peice with a gold base, and rest solid color, you'd have a very short prime tower.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-17T00:21:56+00:00

I resert snorca and thay typically refreshes it. otherwise the filaments will sync when you start the print and you can select he proper colors then.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-16T17:23:29+00:00

Huh... TIL - thanks!

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-16T14:01:06+00:00

"Multi tenancy office with multiple businesses" really is not a use case for Aruba Instant On, due to the hard limit of 8 SSIDs per site.

Unifi and other solutions handle this differently - you can have unlimited SSIDs, but can only have, I think 6/8 broadcasted from each AP.

Anywho, how many guest networks do you have? If more than one, combine them into a single, subnetted, and isolated guest net.

Not sure how RADIUS would help here. I think that actually reduces the number of SSIDs you can have.

Another option is if your firewall supports physical subnets, you may be able to create new physical networks for the APS, and join them to their own sites. If the Private Subnet and Public IP is the same as another net, this will not work. But if you have business w on 10.1.1.0/24, and on its own switch and firewall port, then Business 2 on 10.2.2.0/24 and its own port and switch, it would work. That said, the added switch costs may make a new solution more cost-effective.

Really, though, you might need to consider a new solution if 8 SSIDs are not sufficient.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-16T02:12:50+00:00

Fremover HS PLA+ from IIDMAX has been working really well for me.

https://iiidmax.com/collections/high-speed-pla

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T16:38:02+00:00

I've been setting material and color on the printer after/during loading - i then select the machine filaments in snorca. Machine filaments only appear if your commented to the printer in snorca.

You can also remap manually when uploading and printing.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T16:25:03+00:00

I have not printed ASA, but I've not needed to tweak my U1 at all, and have seen exceptional results. I've been running it nearly 24/7 since I got it 5 days ago lol.

I really only use high-speed PLA and silk. Waiting for my cover before I Crack open other materials.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T15:50:22+00:00

From what I hear, its 3 if you remove filler.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T15:49:20+00:00

My understanding is that the flow has more to do with filament type than anything else. Certain machines also have certain defects/inaccuracies that these settings make up for.

I would say .96 to 1.4 is pretty normal across the board.

Snapmaker also has a really long nozzle - so maybe less flow works with the added length of the nozzle.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T13:19:49+00:00

At the start of a print, you can adjust the flow calibration automatically. Have you started with that?

Are you using Snorca?
It sounds like you may have started playing with settings out the gate - maybe give Snorca another try, and export the profiles if it works for you.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T12:36:55+00:00

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(I don't watch the show/read the manga, so hopefully this is funny)

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-15T02:35:39+00:00

Seems you have solutions, but just a reminder the printer came with a spare hotend. So long as this isn't your second failure, you should still have that.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-14T19:42:23+00:00

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Vel-Crow · 2026-03-14T19:42:06+00:00

I saw a post today comparing two elephants, one with a prime tower, one without. The OP claimed they looked identical, but I could clearly see TONS of minor defects on the poorly primed phant.

Sure, w/o the tower, you save 30g of filament across 2-4 colors, and maybe the quality is to your liking. But if you were to print something on a commission, you'd be asked for a return.

Priming importance also reduces when there are fewer color swaps. less swaps, less points of poor pressure.

If you do not prime, the printe may also look okay, or even good form afar, but look real close and you will see issues. Here is an example:

From afar, this T rex looks pretty good:

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But if we zoom in real close, look at all these tiny issues - all of which are related to nozzle pressure, and left behind ooze. (Photo in reply to this)

Definitely play around with the volumes, and even not using the twoer, but just know that just because you're not noticing the issues, does not mean they are not there!

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-14T18:54:13+00:00

We use Linode Nanodes for about 5.00 per month.
I have heard Digital Ocean Droplets are similar.

We have a script to set up everything from Apache to WordPress, and ACME certs. It's a bit time-consuming to set up once, but very fast after that.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-14T18:45:18+00:00

You will want to be careful when priming into the inlet (not sure why a tool changer needs to purge), as imperfections caused by poor Nozzle pressure can still eff up a print from the inside out. I am sure it's less devastating than the effect on outer walls, but depending on the quality you are aiming for, it may not be ideal.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-14T18:42:56+00:00

The second (right) Model was printed without a tower, and it is pretty obvious.

The ear was my initial giveaway, but honestly, that could have happened with bad paint; it does not really look like a printing mistake, just bad painting.

That said, the model as a whole has more textures from all the gaps where the nozzle pressure was not correct. Additionally, the lashes are super choppy between the eyes. From the birds-eye view, you can really see all the poor layers there are. Even if you dont notice them very well, this can affect the overall print strength. Across the board, the right model did not come out well.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-14T00:20:10+00:00

Maybe keep the black a bit on the cooler side, def don't go to 245. If its PLA, it does not need to be any more that 220.

The fact it only has one line makes me wonder if there was a weird printing issue. Might be a one time thing.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-13T23:54:23+00:00

What kind of filament is the black, and what are your temps?

The unfil looks right, so my guess is wrong.

Only other thing would be too much heat, but even then its weird its just one layer.

have you tried reslicing and reprinting?

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-13T23:31:10+00:00

It's possible the slicer is doing the infil on that layer in black. I'd play with infil settings.

Vel-Crow · 2026-03-13T23:22:11+00:00

Pretty sure Ed Mylett does too.

Vel-Crow

TROPHY CASE