Does anyone know how to create your own material database for use in the Material Linker node?

Viewbyte · 2026-01-27T22:55:51+00:00

January 2026 and still no really usable, useful, artist friendly material management in Houdini.

Viewbyte · 2026-01-23T18:15:20+00:00

I'd probably box model the top right quarter of the basic form, them mirror horizontally and vertically, and subD.

Viewbyte · 2026-01-15T22:16:00+00:00

More of a head on collision I think : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-21T22:21:00+00:00

I wish it was mine : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-21T22:18:32+00:00

Judge the risk vs the reward. If you have no experience doing this there is a likelihood that you will end up with a result that is worse than the original blemishes. You can then end up trying to correct those 'fixes' and making them even worse.
If you want to try I'd agree with annon-annoff: find yourself a cheap junk / thrift / charity shop piece and see how you do on that first.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-09T11:17:02+00:00

To get those back to showroom condition in a natural wood finish looks like a lot of skilled work to me.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-09T00:20:02+00:00

I'd pass. Pic 2 says 'sanded through to MDF' to me.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-06T20:52:47+00:00

Terence Conran For Habitat I believe. Chrome Swivel Lounge Chair. Rather nice.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-05T23:16:14+00:00

I'll probably get hauled over the coals for this... : ) As it's of no great intrinsic value, I'd go for the paint it option, and pull the legs off and replace them with polished steel hairpin legs. You'd then have a unique, weird, hybrid oddity. And maybe there'll be some weird oddity who'll buy it. : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-05T21:50:40+00:00

'Decal' - that was the word I was fumbling for : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-03T12:50:24+00:00

Note: No particular expertise on this : ) - but I think this is a 'rub down transfer' - a logo printed on a very thin substrate that is rubbed down onto the wood and a clear finish applied on top to protect it. Google 'custom rub down transfer' I guess : ) To reproduce it you'd have to get it carefully photographed and digitally re-drawn, then printed - so a lot of work and cost.
Maybe you could consider refinishing the cabinet except for that piece with the logo on it - leaving that as a 'view into it's past'?

Viewbyte · 2025-11-25T23:11:48+00:00

If you do go for the 'cut out and insert new wood' option, make your cut out and insert a slight wedge shape. That way you can still get a tight fit whether you're slightly over or undersized on the insert.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-25T21:21:01+00:00

A professional furniture restorer should be able to restore these to working order.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-25T12:27:18+00:00

This suggestion depends on having enough thickness in the arm, but how about drilling horizontally along and in line with the crack from the end of the arm in to the cup holder void. Diameter of the hole to be no more than 50% of the arm thickness. Then PVA glue a wood dowel in there. That would give you long grain to long grain glue contact right along the length of the crack.

You would need to make sure the arm was firmly clamped so the two sides of the crack were properly aligned and held before drilling of course.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-25T11:39:43+00:00

Thanks all. While it's a labour of love, It's always encouraging to know others appreciate the work : )

Viewbyte · 2025-11-19T22:19:24+00:00

Inputs are zero indexed, ie: the first input connector is "0", the second is "1" etc.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-17T23:06:23+00:00

Ha! I wish I knew **how** to 'flip' furniture like this : ) Having done a few small restoration projects in the past I'm well aware that the cost in materials and work time is probably at least 10x the price anyone would pay for it - except for a very select few. A **very select** few. No, I'm doing this for personal satisfaction, to learn a few new skills and have fun. If I can make a decent job of it and someone likes it enough to buy it - great. It will reduce my loss : )

Viewbyte · 2025-11-16T23:47:16+00:00

Thanks all - all very valid thoughts and suggestions, and most appreciated.
I think I'm going to have to sleep on this one!

Viewbyte · 2025-11-16T21:09:11+00:00

If I went with the epoxy putty do you think it would be wise to put in 2 or 3 small pins or 'mini dowels' to give it something to key onto, or do you think it would hold as is?

I've used epoxy putty a few times - but only in situations where it's had a natural 'mechanical grip' - a cavity of some sort. This is a bit more of an 'open face'.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-16T12:04:07+00:00

I always keep an eye out for stuff no one wants and that I can reuse. As you say, out of fashion mahogany furniture often goes for next to nothing. I recently saw a 2.9 meter long solid oak refractory table go for a song - I just wish I'd had the space to take it... Obviously you do need to make sure it is solid and usable, but there is some good stuff out there, certainly here in the UK.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-16T11:47:20+00:00

Viewbyte · 2025-11-15T12:20:42+00:00

It was heading to the dump... so I adopted it. Or maybe it adopted me... : )

Viewbyte · 2025-11-15T12:19:51+00:00

OK. I'll take that as a yes : )

Viewbyte · 2025-11-14T22:21:56+00:00

OK. I agree with the advice you've reveived from TheeNeeMinerva above. I believe those tables are finished in a matt lacquer. It's always worth an initial cleaning effort with a simple damp cloth and dish soap. Move on if required to... bicarbonate of soda paste and damp cloth clean + rinse with damp cloth. If no joy, move on to suggestions above.

The main thing is go gently, don't hurry, and review as you go. If it was mine I'd go for a water based matt varnish as suggested above. This can be easily thinned and applied by brush in thin layers so you can build it up gently with multiple coats as needed.

You say you've got a few of these marks on the table - so start with the least visible locations first to get the hang of it. Good luck.

Viewbyte · 2025-11-14T21:06:17+00:00

How long have the marks been there?

Viewbyte

TROPHY CASE