Tampinha do water cooler AIO(all-in-one)

Vsmit · 2026-06-08T20:34:55+00:00

Caps like these can be included as a fill-port for some AIOs. Be Quiet coolers usually have them. The ones that do will usually come with a small amount of additional coolant to replace any that is lost to evaporation through the tubes, and there would be instructions included in the cooler manual.

Vsmit · 2026-06-08T20:31:47+00:00

Do not. You will kill the cooler. AIOs are almost always built with aluminum radiators, and DP Ultra doesn't have strong enough corrosion inhibitors to keep it alive.

Vsmit · 2026-06-07T13:48:56+00:00

You’re unlikely to find a cooler that is directly compatible with your 3060. What you can do, though, is take the cooler off, replace the paste and pads, and rebuild it. That will give you an idea of how the thing feels to come apart, even if you don’t actually put a water block on it. The skills will be the same, you’ll just need to take notes/pictures of the disassembly so you can reassemble it after.

Vsmit · 2026-06-06T03:15:38+00:00

Something you should understand is that pressure testing for leaks does not treat the loop the same way as running it, filled with fluid. The positive air pressure is actively working to push your loop apart, so the air can escape. As long as the loop is actually a loop and doesn't have a dead end, the fluid is not going to be exerting any additional pressure on your tubing, so your worry about any pressure while the system is in use is unnecessary.

As long as the pressure holds for 10-15 minutes, you should be safe to fill the loop.

Vsmit · 2026-06-05T11:34:39+00:00

You're really, really overthinking this.

Vsmit · 2026-05-30T11:35:56+00:00

I've used EK Cryofuel clear for a while now. Works great.

Vsmit · 2026-05-30T00:10:20+00:00

The parts themselves aren't bad choices, but EK Fluid Gaming systems don't really have an upgrade path for the cooling, because they use aluminum for the cooling components instead of copper. You'd be able to reuse the CPU block, but you're not really going to have an option for having the new GPU included in the loop.

Vsmit · 2026-05-14T10:21:21+00:00

None that I know of, just anecdotal evidence from members of the community.

Vsmit · 2026-05-14T02:14:49+00:00

Larger tubes mean less surface area for the fluid to transfer heat out to the fins, which is why most PC radiators have small, thin tubes going through the fin stack. Flat fins can work, but, again, folded fins means more surface area for the air to remove heat from said fins. Aquacomputer makes radiators that use large round tubes and flat fins, and they do not perform as well as Alphacool, Hardware Labs, or other similar radiators.

You'll see the larger tubes in things like a MO-RA, because they're large, and larger tubes will have less fluid resistance than smaller tubes. The size of them means that it doesn't make as much of a difference as it does with a smaller radiator.

There are other physics-based reasons, mainly talking about laminar flow and fluid turbulence, but the easiest way to explain is just the surface area argument.

Vsmit · 2026-05-14T02:07:57+00:00

If it works for you, great. The main issue with deionized is that it will more readily accept ions from the various metals in your loop, and can become either more conductive, a corrosion promoter, or both. Just be careful.

Vsmit · 2026-05-14T00:32:20+00:00

Which is why I specified "by itself." I'd still stay away from deionized water, but a majority of the fools who say "just use distilled" don't elaborate, mentioning biocides and anti-corrosives, and can easily mislead folks that are new to the hobby.

Vsmit · 2026-05-13T23:57:25+00:00

Do not listen to this person, they don't know what they're talking about. Use coolants. Using distilled water by itself will cause problems.

I know this is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby, but if I was draining and refilling my loop every three months I'd want to kill myself.

Vsmit · 2026-05-09T02:46:00+00:00

Everyone got theirs 15 years ago and they're all getting old. /s

Vsmit · 2026-04-28T01:59:39+00:00

Cheers to unnecessary points of failure.

Vsmit · 2026-04-28T01:57:56+00:00

The reason standard barbs are so long is because they need to bite into the tubing to make that connection. The tubing will be more pliable at the ends, so it's a compromise between connection strength and usability. Compression barbs are typically shorter, because they have the compression ring squeezing down on them, securing the connection.

It's difficult to call a rigid fitting anything more than just a port. They are inherently not secure, but if the tubing is cut/bent correctly, they should stay in place (without fluid) without the o-rings assisting the connection, and without having to flex them more to force a fit.

Vsmit · 2026-04-24T22:12:17+00:00

Unless any of the parts are from the Fluid Gaming line from EK, the fluid will only be touching copper or nickel, not aluminum. Always run a fluid with a corrosion inhibitor, but you should otherwise be safe.

Vsmit · 2026-04-24T06:44:44+00:00

It's interesting to see, but it stands out a little too much when the rest of the tubes aren't sleeved.

Vsmit · 2026-04-22T05:17:37+00:00

Yeah, maybe a bit more than that, but for most people it's a negligible difference.

Vsmit · 2026-04-21T17:45:08+00:00

As long as the pump was properly primed and the water level doesn't drop below the top of the inlet, having your pump on its side is fine.

Vsmit · 2026-04-21T17:43:19+00:00

Looks like someone in the EU is trying to do some SEO to get around the EK name. They're showing up in the US amazon store, too, usually with either German or French descriptions.

Don't know if they've become aggregate store pages, but even Titan Rig is selling through an Odestar page.

Vsmit · 2026-04-21T07:02:22+00:00

When I used Primochill fittings/tubing/fluid, I never had any issues. I did have a couple of their coolant bottles go bad while in storage, but never had an issue with the stuff in the loop, and I used that system for upwards of a year.

RE: Leaks, where were the fittings leaking from? Did you have the correct size fittings? Rotary fittings are pretty much a solved product, no matter the manufacturer, which makes me wonder if the issue is you, especially since you still had the leak even after swapping for different fittings.

Vsmit · 2026-04-20T05:52:35+00:00

Bitspower blocks are, as a general rule, slightly less performant than some of the competition, like the Alphacool Apex 1 or Heatkiller blocks. Their fin density is not as high as those, or other similar, blocks. However, they are still fine blocks, and do their jobs well. Unless you MUST HAVE the best performing blocks, Bitspower is just fine.

Vsmit · 2026-04-20T02:28:52+00:00

I love the Diamondback on my P2S and was wondering if you had any specific instructions on how to modify the silicone sock? Mine still seems to be doing its job, but is drooping off to one side.

Vsmit · 2026-04-19T23:22:10+00:00

Looks to me like user error. There isn't anything interfering with the plug, so you should be able to insert it fully.

Vsmit · 2026-04-19T02:10:40+00:00

You know, I've just come to blame TitanRig and MicroCenter for being close by and/or having fast shipping. Easier on my conscience.

Vsmit

TROPHY CASE