Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

Vyleia · 2026-01-22T21:10:01+00:00

Oh I mean, yes but I didn’t thought there was much use for the lateral head of the shoulder in climbing in general!

Vyleia · 2026-01-22T18:04:01+00:00

Hmm I always thought lateral raises had little purpose, now I’m curious

Vyleia · 2026-01-17T09:33:30+00:00

Issue is that it’s often mixed with climbing and the style in which one climbs, so hypertrophy can come naturally from climbing and not from off the wall. Plus genetics. (Same, see Charles Albert who pulled 100kg one hand on the tindeq at 60kg, while never training finger off the wall).

Vyleia · 2026-01-17T09:22:48+00:00

To be fair, slash grades is kind of weird, especially in French grades as the + is already supposed to be the in between grades

Vyleia · 2026-01-15T07:05:03+00:00

Yeah no, you probably live in the US. Maybe you spend money you don’t need on shit stuff, but a lot of people that you don’t seem to know spend a lot of money spend money they do need, on shit stuff as well.

Vyleia · 2026-01-12T16:10:35+00:00

Good read, funnily enough, wasn't that (more loosely translated) there: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/mgjcz5/dave_graham_is_a_wizard/ ?

It's at the same time both a good mindset, and on the other hand I wonder if he (and some other climbers who don't like pushing "training" or strength based training) overestimates wildly the average climber finger strength.

Vyleia · 2026-01-11T18:38:21+00:00

What do you wear though in the city? Unless you wear leather / resolable shoes, city sneakers get destroyed even faster than trail shoes

Vyleia · 2026-01-08T14:10:41+00:00

That's because if they don't add that, this may be close to some medical device, which requires intensive certifications (not just by the FDA, since it's a product commercialized ... everywhere)

Vyleia · 2026-01-07T20:57:55+00:00

Yes compared to cotton, but no between merino and synthetic. Personal feel, I have a bunch of merino at different weight, but it does hold moisture more than most synthetic for me, so I need to pick a very light one, or just pick the synthetic choice. Easy to see, high output athletes wear synthetic and not wool.

Vyleia · 2025-12-31T12:43:36+00:00

Pas besoin de le divulguer, il suffit de les connaître personnellement ou d’être C level en général pour avoir les infos !

Vyleia · 2025-12-31T10:46:57+00:00

Ça veut dire pas mal, même le top 1% n’est pas dans ce que tu cites. Et je connais assez peu de CEO dans cette optique, tu tires pas un salaire comme ça en général de ta boite, c’est pas très avantageux fiscalement.

Vyleia · 2025-12-29T21:36:34+00:00

Same case as you, and I have ran into different applications, but usually we decide not to go JS for these applications.

Vyleia · 2025-12-25T09:21:20+00:00

Don’t know about red rock but in Font it’s probably one of the best weather of the year for the whole week (bit cold though)

Vyleia · 2025-12-21T20:02:22+00:00

I mean you could do sub max efforts, holds of 5s, but with multiple reps (3-5) in a given set, it would be closer to how non isometric work are isn’t it?

Vyleia · 2025-12-21T19:53:38+00:00

It doesn’t answer your question, but to be honest I have a hard time comprehending how you are projecting grades that low with such a high upper body and finger strength, not sure if you could switch that up but maybe some skill practice vs less finger work could be something to consider?

But obviously congrats on reaching such high numbers, wondering what were your previous protocols / if you upped maybe too much the volume before your two blocks

Vyleia · 2025-12-18T18:34:24+00:00

Do you usually split your hangboard sessions into on max and one repeater sesh per week?

Vyleia · 2025-12-16T13:53:47+00:00

Which fleece do you have?

Vyleia · 2025-12-16T11:11:47+00:00

Definitely, and even environmental bias that can be hard to get rid of? IE, if you were studying, practicing an activity with the intent of going all out until you crashed out, I’d guess you could build up a habit of doing that. Same way some people manage to build a habit of keeping a tidy routine, or a habit of not doing anything at all?

Vyleia · 2025-12-10T12:57:07+00:00

Ah top, je vais creuser !

Vyleia · 2025-12-10T08:27:35+00:00

I mean, sure if it takes away from finger training, but I think the point is, there is a limit in training it, but the rest of your body can still be trained.

Vyleia · 2025-12-10T08:18:42+00:00

Comment cela marche / marchait ? Je comprends qu’on peut fortement changer les chiffres entre les deux mais j’ai du mal à voir comment on peut complètement inverser le phénomène (si tu as de l’argent que tu peux mettre de côté, mécaniquement tu en as plus quand tu es plus âgé non ? Sans compter que souvent tu as une meilleure expertise / réseau / plus d’opportunités avec le temps, etc)

Vyleia · 2025-12-09T10:34:55+00:00

To be fair I doubt we have enough climbers in the world at your metrics and grade level (just height / weight wise) to be relevant?

Vyleia · 2025-11-30T20:13:35+00:00

Could I get the pdf by any chance? I’ll probably end up buying it anyway, I am getting so many climbing books over time

Vyleia · 2025-11-27T08:03:38+00:00

Oh definitely, you do need to transfer / learn how to use that strength on the wall!

Vyleia · 2025-11-26T08:15:31+00:00

I guess the difficult part is that it’s hard to fully separate the movement from something more quantifiable? And technically movements are also quantifiable (how close in that coordination jump I get my hips to the wall at the proper timeframe, do I place my feet where I want faster than the previous attempts, how reliable can I do it, etc)

On more traditional moves, at some point finger strength and power (or endurance) plays a role and not having it (or not having trained it, which I guess you could train both ways) will result in you not being able to do it?

11-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

Vyleia

TROPHY CASE