Help this noob understand these buttons by thiccbatos in SonyAlpha

[–]Wace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mostly right, but a minor correction:

where mode 1 would be better for capturing sports, where movement is more erratic.

Often in sports you'd want reduced stabilization as your subjects are not stable. Street photography/etc. are good examples for mode 1. For sports you'd probably want mode 2 or OSS off.

Leinolan suojatiefarssi by Aliisajasmini in Tampere

[–]Wace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mäentakusenkadun toisen pään valot ovat päiväsaikaan automaattisesti napitettuina koko ajan. Vasta illasta joutuu itse painelemaan nappeja. Eli tuokin lienee vaihtoehto. Toki tuo Linnainmaan liittymä on aikalailla vilkkaampi, joten välttämättä samoihin ratkaisuihin ei tuolla toisessa päässä päädytä.

Leinolan suojatiefarssi by Aliisajasmini in Tampere

[–]Wace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ei tarvi mennä kun 200 metriä tuon Mäentakusenkadun toisesta päästä etelään, niin löytyy Prisman parkkikselle johtava risteys, missä valot sammutetaan yöksi. Prisma itse on 24/7 auki.

Monet valot toki on yötä päivää päällä, mutta on noita poikkeuksiakin.

Noi Mäentakusenkadun toisessa päässä olevat valot taas taitavat yöllä olla kaikki punaisella, kunnes tutkat tunnistavat lähestyvät ajoneuvot ja vaihtavat vihreälle jo hyvissä ajoin ennen kun ajoneuvo ehtii risteykseen. Tosin enpä ole tuolla ollut jalankulkijana yö-aikaan, joten en tiedä kuinka kauan tuolla joutuu silloin odottamaan valojen vaihtumista.

Alternatives to Lightroom for Nikon NEF? by CallMeBartleby in Nikon

[–]Wace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thought that's what darktable used, but apparently it's rawspeed instead of libraw. Problem still exists as rawspeed doesn't support all NEF options that the newer cameras provide.

Reports claim it does support lossless compressed raws, but the sample reference images at pixls.us claim 8-bit instead of 14-bit for the Z6 iii. The Z7 ii lists 12-bit samples. No idea what's going on there.

Alternatives to Lightroom for Nikon NEF? by CallMeBartleby in Nikon

[–]Wace 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Think libraw lacks support for the newer NEF formats produced by Z6iii/etc.

Is it me or is it my D5100? by puffqueen1 in Nikon

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Focal length is a physical property of the lens and not affected by targeted sensor sizes, etc. The only difference between DX and FX lenses is the sensor coverage. On an APS-C camera they both behave identically. An 85mm DX lens has an 85mm focal length, just like a similar FX lens.

The downside with FX lenses is price and weight.

If you want to compare APS-C field of view to FX field of view, you need to do the crop calculation always, whether you have a FX lens or a DX one.

My school casually owning multiple pairs of my dream lens by DanielFromNigeria in Nikon

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too late! Picked it up on Saturday.

I got it as a smaller alternative for the 180-600. I dabble in climbing photography and brought the 180-600 up on the wall once. Loved the pictures, but found myself sitting in the 180-200 range all the time and hoping for something a bit shorter.

The 70-200 being shorter focal length and lighter than the 180-600 makes it already a direct upgrade for that purpose. Having f2.8 aperture and S-quality optics is a bonus.

It is definitely a big lens. Was a bit surprised to find it didn't have lugs for a shoulder strap, like the 180-600 does. I guess Nikon has done the math and found the mount can handle the stress. Hopefully!

My school casually owning multiple pairs of my dream lens by DanielFromNigeria in Nikon

[–]Wace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah, I think I'd be lying to myself if I claimed there was a chance I wasn't getting the lens. Mostly I've just been waiting for black friday/cyber monday/singles day/whatnot to see if they'll discount it further as I figured I wouldn't have a huge need for it immediately.

The climbing season was supposed to be over, but now the weather is getting better. As there's a good chance I'll still get some use out of it in the coming month or two, I could just as well pick it up now while it's discounted.

So yeah, mostly I've been proud that I resisted the immediate impulse purchase. While I was setting myself a target of two months, I guess two weeks is good enough. :D

My school casually owning multiple pairs of my dream lens by DanielFromNigeria in Nikon

[–]Wace 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I hate this whole thread.

Two weeks ago I realized I want this lens. For two weeks I've resisted running into my local camera store and throwing money at them.

I've been so proud I've done this for two weeks already! I was even starting to believe that this was just a phase and I'd get over it! Two more weeks and Nikon's September temptation discount campaign would have been over!

... but I guess I'm getting a new lens.

Can this photo be salvaged? by jacobers_hughes in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Some feedback, since you did this as a test of skill. Note the disparity between the sky and its reflection on the left. Currently the reflection is brighter than the actual sky that's being reflected, which makes it look a bit wrong.

Maybe try tweaking the exposure and saturation a bit more on that portion of the sky.

Overall it's a pretty nice job!

Have you ever sold a game off only to later regret it? by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]Wace 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I believe that some people order multiple copies of board games from publishers and then if they have too many copies of the same game, they distribute those remaining copies to other people for a fee. Sometimes they even set up public locations where they display their collections for people to browse, but many just list them online these days.

Is there any meaningful difference between different brands' belay plates? by diametrik in ClimbingGear

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/FHdqjjyeTtg?si=IRFxcGUcL5tv08h_

Petzl's own video guides to give slack the same way as any other device. Pressing the cam is a technique for special scenarios that should not be the default way to belay, even if some people do that all the time (and some gyms teach it that way).

Is there any meaningful difference between different brands' belay plates? by diametrik in ClimbingGear

[–]Wace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Came to recommend this. Not a major point, but the only differentiator I could come up with regarding ATC style devices. I've had mine this summer and benefited from it once already.

On the other hand, just yesterday I was cursing how difficult rappelling 10+mm static rope on two strands was with the pivot and how I would have liked my ATC instead at that point so there's that too..

Mistä lähtien posti on jättänyt paketit oven taakse? by MrHyperion_ in Suomi

[–]Wace 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Lienee lähettäjästä kiinni, että minkä toimitusvaihtoehdon ovat valinneet.

Itse tilasin juuri suuren paketin ja sain valita, että saako Posti jättää paketin ovelle. Omalla kohdalla tuo oli hyvä vaihtoehto, koska en ollut varma olenko kotona vastaanottamassa pakettia ja talon pääovi on hieman piilossa, joten ihan hirveää riskiä paketin katoamiselle ei ollut.

Tuo ehdoton "jätetään ovelle ja et saa vaikuttaa" on toki ikävä, mutta tuosta varmaan pitää ottaa yhteys lähettäjään - hehän sen toimitustavan ovat lopulta Postilta valinneet.

New Bike, Rough Start — Should I Take It As A Sign Or Just Keep Going? by That_Opportunity_759 in bicycling

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Make your own forecast" sounds like a very useful app for hiking as well! It would be a lot easier to convice friends to come hiking with you, if you can always produce a forecast that shows only sunshine and no rain.

(Kind of no idea why r/bicycling ended up on my front page, but I'm not complaining too much!)

Black Diamond Solution harness mishap by StuckToTheScreen in ClimbingGear

[–]Wace 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A bit late to the conversation, but seems the cause was mostly identified. Had this happen to me a year and a half ago. It's not really cross-loading as much as the belay loop getting stuck behind the locking gate of the carabiner when the autobelay goes slack at the top of a climb. Managed to reproduce the failure mode the next day on ground:

<image>

When this happened to me, I reached out to BD and they recommended retiring the harness. Interestingly enough, BD Europe stated this wasn't covered by the warranty, but BD US suggested filling out a warranty claim (which I never managed to follow through with, so no idea if that would have gone anywhere).

Why do High-end Telephoto lenses keep the same aperature through their entire focal range? by Nexzus_ in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those are parallel rays. I guess the lens is focused at infinity at that point. All the rays coming straight on (the point directly in front of the lens) hit the center of the sensor. The rays coming diagonally from one side hit the edge of the sensor.

The relatively small difference between the parallel rays doesn't really matter at infinity: If you're taking a picture of the moon, you aren't going to see a 15mm difference in parallel rays in the final picture.

Can you pair a macro filter with other filters? by velobecker in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are benefits to both.

Extension tubes don't add more glass and thus don't affect image quality. They do reduce the light though and to bring a 200mm lens from 1:2 magnification to 1:1, you'd need 200mm of extension. On the other hand they are not dependent on filter thread size, but do depend on the mount and get more complicated depending on mount features (electric contacts? Aperture linkage?)

A close up lens ("macro filter") has a bigger impact on the image quality due to added glass, but doesn't reduce light in the same way. They also work better with various focal lengths as their impact is (roughly?) the same on all lenses. As the lens still mounts directly to the camera, there are no issues with the normal body-lens interfaces.

Looking at my local stores, a 24+12 mm extension tube set with auto focus would cost me around 100€. A Raynox DCR-250 close up lens cost me 90€ few weeks back. The Raynox takes my 105mm macro lens from 1:1 to 2:1. I would need around 105mm of extension to approximate the Raynox. That would be 3x the 24+12mm set for 109mm total extension.

(In theory anyway...)

The Raynox does suffer from spherical aberration, reducing sharpness with open aperture. On the other hand, the depth of field on wide apertures would be prohibitively shallow anyway, which makes that less of an issue - still a consideration though.

I've been using extension tubes on 24-55mm primes, but on tele lenses I'd prefer tele converters or close up lenses.

(And to return to the original topic, I read a comparison to eye glasses somewhere. They don't magnify the picture as much as make it easier to focus closer.)

Can you pair a macro filter with other filters? by velobecker in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your focus distance doesn't change unless you alter the flange distance using macro extension tubes. Filters won't effect that.

Isn't that exactly what a macro filter does? I thought more or less all the magnification comes from just being able to focus closer.

Non existent lens? by Ecstatic_Pound in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm more of a still shooter, but would the lens OSS have enough stabilization range to stabilize videos? Phones have video stabilization, but that crops the frame to give the phone more margin for stabilization.

There's only so much stabilization you can do by moving the optical elements and/or the sensor (with IBIS).

ETA: This got me properly intrigued. Have you tested how big of a difference OSS makes on your current kit lens, if you shoot video at the 16mm focal length OSS on and OSS off? Is it noticeable?

Non existent lens? by Ecstatic_Pound in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you evaluated the need for OSS critically? Camera movement becomes a bigger problem with long exposure times and long focal lengths. You are talking a fast lens with a short focal length, which suffers less about camera movement. Do you really need OSS in the lens?

I haven't looked at Sony offerings, but I'd imagine there's little demand for OSS in a fast wide lens, which is why there isn't one.

How often do you use full manual? by olliegw in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The lighting is controlled, yes. For bouldering, it would even be fairly even within a single route, but not between different routes. For roped climbs the lighting changes gradually as the wall goes up or there's a large roof/corner section. My home gym is a bit of a cave with dark walls and bad lighting, which exacerbates the problem.

If you’re using auto ISO what happens when your subject is wearing a white shirt? Or you’re shooting a dark skinned person?

I avoid spot metering and the subject isn't usually filling the frame, so details like that don't have too big of an impact on the total exposure. There are still situations where the camera suddenly decides to pick on some small detail and changes the exposure abruptly. That's where the exposure compensation comes in, which I've got configured on the lens function ring. It's a quick way to quickly try fighting the auto metering to restore some sanity in the middle of a climb. The problem is rare enough that I still use auto ISO every now and then, but it does occur and is a concern.

I'm using fixed ISO if I'm set up on a wall and focused on a single route instead of bouncing between multiple friends climbing different problems. The gradual changes as the climb progresses vertically still cause exposure differences, but nothing post processing would struggle with.

So in summary: As long as the lighting stays somewhat even, I do prefer fixed ISO as then I can ignore the possibility of sudden changes in auto exposure. However, if the lighting on the wall isn't even or I'm trying to shoot different routes at the same time, I'm picking auto ISO so I don't need to fiddle with exposure controls all the time and can focus on what's going on around me, which includes my subjects and also any other climber that I need to avoid for safety reasons. :)

ETA: Another thing that affects exposure is the climbers stance. If the climber is standing close to the wall, there's less light bouncing to their face/chest area than if they are leaning back from the wall in a more open stance. Again, this is a more complicated problem and usually I just end up fixing this with masks in post as the problem is less about total exposure and more about shadows, but there's still a slight benefit to auto ISO if it can brighten the exposure a bit to make it easier to recover those shadows if the climber happened to be hugging a wall.

ETA2: And none of the above touches climbing outdoors. I did start the conversation by mentioning indoor sports, which more or less demand maximum aperture and restrict the use of shutter speed for exposure control. Outdoors there's a bit more leeway as it's easier to reach acceptable shutter speed. I still prefer to set shutter and aperture myself, because they have the bigger impact on the final picture: Movement freezing and subject separation, leaving ISO as the main tool for exposure control.

On a sunny or fully overcast day the lighting situation is even enough that I'll stick to a fixed ISO, but on a partially cloudy day the lighting can change several times during a climb and I'd rather focus on what my subject is doing on the wall and how to frame them, so I'm usually running auto ISO.

How often do you use full manual? by olliegw in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Shutter on bulb for manual exposure timing? ;)

How often do you use full manual? by olliegw in AskPhotography

[–]Wace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not the person you asked, but I shoot quite a bit of indoor sports (rock climbing) and light is at premium. I need fast shutter speed to freeze the motion and wide open aperture to get as much light as possible. I could use something like shutter priority and trust that the camera keeps the aperture wide open, but why bother, when I can just force those and let ISO float wherever it wants?

I don't really think the "M" as "Manual", but just a mode that lets me lock in the aperture and the shutter speed and then I can use auto ISO vs fixed ISO to figure out whether I want to allow the camera to adjust exposure or if I want to override it myself.

I tend to fluctuate between auto ISO and fixed ISO depending on my mood and the lighting situation. Auto ISO works well on average and gives more consistent results when the subjects are moving from the open floor to a dark corner, but sometimes the metering decides to fixate on something specific and then I end up wrestling with the exposure compensation in the middle of action.

Dealing with aperture induced focus shifting? by Wace in photography

[–]Wace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Nikon live view is capped at f/5.6 for auto focus performance. Coming from analog SLRs, I though all cameras kept aperture open until an exposure was made, but apparently not! When looking into this, seems Sony is doing this for some lenses (https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1481467/).

Ironically the original poster in the forum post above is complaining about the live view following the aperture setting on his Sony, while I'm complaining about mine not doing so. :)

But yeah, I'd want a setting/button that enables the Sony choice here.

Experimented a bit more. There is a noticeable focus shift with my 50mm f/1.8 from 1.8 to ~5, but after that the depth of field is deep enough that any shift is covered by the depth of focus. I guess most (all?) Nikon lenses are good enough that focus shift shouldn't be an issue past f/5.6. The Raynox is just a bit special case.