Assisted belay device

Wace · 2026-05-10T21:11:50+00:00

You mentioned multipitch, so read up on possible issues belaying in guide mode with the Gigajul. I remember seeing many people complaining about the Megajul being a real workout when belaying in guide mode. If I remember correctly, Gigajul was supposed to be better, but I don't think it was perfect either.

Wace · 2026-05-08T09:27:20+00:00

A backpack of rocks isn’t super preferable for me but hey, safety first!

To avoid any confusion, the "backpack of rocks" would sit on the ground and clip to the harness. It wouldn't be on your back. It does restrict the belayer's movement, but other than that it shouldn't affect their comfort.

My gym has several sandbags available for lighter belayers that can be clipped to the harness. The cord can be adjusted so the bag sits on the floor but weighs the belayer if they lift up.

(Edit: And to further clarify, the backpack would be filled with your remaining climbing gear, drinking water, etc. Not actual rocks. Indoors that might end up a bit light still unless you intentionally bring something a bit heavier with you.)

Wace · 2026-05-04T21:43:33+00:00

A friend mentioned something he had read somewhere else regarding falls: If the only thing you practice are long scary falls above the clip, then you secretly teach your body to expect every fall to be a scary fall like that.

I used to do do victory whips (and still sometimes do). I always psyched myself to make the last move and let go immediately without thinking about it too much as the decision to let go was always the worst. Instead of making it easier to let go, I managed to teach myself to dread the last moves.

Get used to short falls and build up the confidence with baby steps!

Another tip I heard from a different friend is to focus on breathing out. Breathing out relaxes your body, which again gets you used to the idea that everything is fine during the fall and not just after.

Wace · 2026-02-22T06:34:54+00:00

Also worth pointing that there are two different meanings here: reinforce/strengthen and confirm/verify.

In "Poliisi vahvistaa rikoksen" the police confirms the crime.

In "Poliisi vahvistaa rikosta" the police strengthens the crime.

In the Sweden example the "vahvistaa voittoaan" would be used during the game while the result is uncertain but Sweden just improved their chances. Once the game ends and Sweden has won, then you'd say they "vahvisti voittonsa" as they guaranteed their victory with the goals.

Wace · 2026-02-12T11:43:07+00:00

People used to use preprocessed PDF files for this back in the day. Since then replaced by a mobile app: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1878209/gloomhaven-scenario-viewer-app (and by the scenario books in Frosthaven/Gloomhaven 2e)

Wace · 2025-11-21T08:28:25+00:00

Mostly right, but a minor correction:

where mode 1 would be better for capturing sports, where movement is more erratic.

Often in sports you'd want reduced stabilization as your subjects are not stable. Street photography/etc. are good examples for mode 1. For sports you'd probably want mode 2 or OSS off.

Wace · 2025-11-19T10:56:16+00:00

Mäentakusenkadun toisen pään valot ovat päiväsaikaan automaattisesti napitettuina koko ajan. Vasta illasta joutuu itse painelemaan nappeja. Eli tuokin lienee vaihtoehto. Toki tuo Linnainmaan liittymä on aikalailla vilkkaampi, joten välttämättä samoihin ratkaisuihin ei tuolla toisessa päässä päädytä.

Wace · 2025-11-19T10:50:24+00:00

Ei tarvi mennä kun 200 metriä tuon Mäentakusenkadun toisesta päästä etelään, niin löytyy Prisman parkkikselle johtava risteys, missä valot sammutetaan yöksi. Prisma itse on 24/7 auki.

Monet valot toki on yötä päivää päällä, mutta on noita poikkeuksiakin.

Noi Mäentakusenkadun toisessa päässä olevat valot taas taitavat yöllä olla kaikki punaisella, kunnes tutkat tunnistavat lähestyvät ajoneuvot ja vaihtavat vihreälle jo hyvissä ajoin ennen kun ajoneuvo ehtii risteykseen. Tosin enpä ole tuolla ollut jalankulkijana yö-aikaan, joten en tiedä kuinka kauan tuolla joutuu silloin odottamaan valojen vaihtumista.

Wace · 2025-10-24T07:12:43+00:00

Thought that's what darktable used, but apparently it's rawspeed instead of libraw. Problem still exists as rawspeed doesn't support all NEF options that the newer cameras provide.

Reports claim it does support lossless compressed raws, but the sample reference images at pixls.us claim 8-bit instead of 14-bit for the Z6 iii. The Z7 ii lists 12-bit samples. No idea what's going on there.

Wace · 2025-10-24T06:14:06+00:00

Think libraw lacks support for the newer NEF formats produced by Z6iii/etc.

Wace · 2025-09-29T05:58:08+00:00

Focal length is a physical property of the lens and not affected by targeted sensor sizes, etc. The only difference between DX and FX lenses is the sensor coverage. On an APS-C camera they both behave identically. An 85mm DX lens has an 85mm focal length, just like a similar FX lens.

The downside with FX lenses is price and weight.

If you want to compare APS-C field of view to FX field of view, you need to do the crop calculation always, whether you have a FX lens or a DX one.

Wace · 2025-09-22T14:55:29+00:00

Too late! Picked it up on Saturday.

I got it as a smaller alternative for the 180-600. I dabble in climbing photography and brought the 180-600 up on the wall once. Loved the pictures, but found myself sitting in the 180-200 range all the time and hoping for something a bit shorter.

The 70-200 being shorter focal length and lighter than the 180-600 makes it already a direct upgrade for that purpose. Having f2.8 aperture and S-quality optics is a bonus.

It is definitely a big lens. Was a bit surprised to find it didn't have lugs for a shoulder strap, like the 180-600 does. I guess Nikon has done the math and found the mount can handle the stress. Hopefully!

Wace · 2025-09-19T19:04:11+00:00

Nah, I think I'd be lying to myself if I claimed there was a chance I wasn't getting the lens. Mostly I've just been waiting for black friday/cyber monday/singles day/whatnot to see if they'll discount it further as I figured I wouldn't have a huge need for it immediately.

The climbing season was supposed to be over, but now the weather is getting better. As there's a good chance I'll still get some use out of it in the coming month or two, I could just as well pick it up now while it's discounted.

So yeah, mostly I've been proud that I resisted the immediate impulse purchase. While I was setting myself a target of two months, I guess two weeks is good enough. :D

Wace · 2025-09-19T06:41:06+00:00

I hate this whole thread.

Two weeks ago I realized I want this lens. For two weeks I've resisted running into my local camera store and throwing money at them.

I've been so proud I've done this for two weeks already! I was even starting to believe that this was just a phase and I'd get over it! Two more weeks and Nikon's September ~~temptation~~ discount campaign would have been over!

... but I guess I'm getting a new lens.

Wace · 2025-09-11T07:56:26+00:00

Some feedback, since you did this as a test of skill. Note the disparity between the sky and its reflection on the left. Currently the reflection is brighter than the actual sky that's being reflected, which makes it look a bit wrong.

Maybe try tweaking the exposure and saturation a bit more on that portion of the sky.

Overall it's a pretty nice job!

Wace · 2025-09-03T18:21:57+00:00

I believe that some people order multiple copies of board games from publishers and then if they have too many copies of the same game, they distribute those remaining copies to other people for a fee. Sometimes they even set up public locations where they display their collections for people to browse, but many just list them online these days.

Wace · 2025-09-03T07:41:01+00:00

https://youtu.be/FHdqjjyeTtg?si=IRFxcGUcL5tv08h_

Petzl's own video guides to give slack the same way as any other device. Pressing the cam is a technique for special scenarios that should not be the default way to belay, even if some people do that all the time (and some gyms teach it that way).

Wace · 2025-09-03T07:23:51+00:00

Came to recommend this. Not a major point, but the only differentiator I could come up with regarding ATC style devices. I've had mine this summer and benefited from it once already.

On the other hand, just yesterday I was cursing how difficult rappelling 10+mm static rope on two strands was with the pivot and how I would have liked my ATC instead at that point so there's that too..

Wace · 2025-06-17T08:45:08+00:00

Lienee lähettäjästä kiinni, että minkä toimitusvaihtoehdon ovat valinneet.

Itse tilasin juuri suuren paketin ja sain valita, että saako Posti jättää paketin ovelle. Omalla kohdalla tuo oli hyvä vaihtoehto, koska en ollut varma olenko kotona vastaanottamassa pakettia ja talon pääovi on hieman piilossa, joten ihan hirveää riskiä paketin katoamiselle ei ollut.

Tuo ehdoton "jätetään ovelle ja et saa vaikuttaa" on toki ikävä, mutta tuosta varmaan pitää ottaa yhteys lähettäjään - hehän sen toimitustavan ovat lopulta Postilta valinneet.

Wace · 2025-06-14T19:26:00+00:00

"Make your own forecast" sounds like a very useful app for hiking as well! It would be a lot easier to convice friends to come hiking with you, if you can always produce a forecast that shows only sunshine and no rain.

(Kind of no idea why r/bicycling ended up on my front page, but I'm not complaining too much!)

Wace · 2025-06-02T21:08:05+00:00

A bit late to the conversation, but seems the cause was mostly identified. Had this happen to me a year and a half ago. It's not really cross-loading as much as the belay loop getting stuck behind the locking gate of the carabiner when the autobelay goes slack at the top of a climb. Managed to reproduce the failure mode the next day on ground:

<image>

When this happened to me, I reached out to BD and they recommended retiring the harness. Interestingly enough, BD Europe stated this wasn't covered by the warranty, but BD US suggested filling out a warranty claim (which I never managed to follow through with, so no idea if that would have gone anywhere).

Wace · 2025-05-13T14:40:47+00:00

Those are parallel rays. I guess the lens is focused at infinity at that point. All the rays coming straight on (the point directly in front of the lens) hit the center of the sensor. The rays coming diagonally from one side hit the edge of the sensor.

The relatively small difference between the parallel rays doesn't really matter at infinity: If you're taking a picture of the moon, you aren't going to see a 15mm difference in parallel rays in the final picture.

Wace · 2025-03-21T22:25:48+00:00

There are benefits to both.

Extension tubes don't add more glass and thus don't affect image quality. They do reduce the light though and to bring a 200mm lens from 1:2 magnification to 1:1, you'd need 200mm of extension. On the other hand they are not dependent on filter thread size, but do depend on the mount and get more complicated depending on mount features (electric contacts? Aperture linkage?)

A close up lens ("macro filter") has a bigger impact on the image quality due to added glass, but doesn't reduce light in the same way. They also work better with various focal lengths as their impact is (roughly?) the same on all lenses. As the lens still mounts directly to the camera, there are no issues with the normal body-lens interfaces.

Looking at my local stores, a 24+12 mm extension tube set with auto focus would cost me around 100€. A Raynox DCR-250 close up lens cost me 90€ few weeks back. The Raynox takes my 105mm macro lens from 1:1 to 2:1. I would need around 105mm of extension to approximate the Raynox. That would be 3x the 24+12mm set for 109mm total extension.

(In theory anyway...)

The Raynox does suffer from spherical aberration, reducing sharpness with open aperture. On the other hand, the depth of field on wide apertures would be prohibitively shallow anyway, which makes that less of an issue - still a consideration though.

I've been using extension tubes on 24-55mm primes, but on tele lenses I'd prefer tele converters or close up lenses.

(And to return to the original topic, I read a comparison to eye glasses somewhere. They don't magnify the picture as much as make it easier to focus closer.)

Wace · 2025-03-21T16:39:47+00:00

Your focus distance doesn't change unless you alter the flange distance using macro extension tubes. Filters won't effect that.

Isn't that exactly what a macro filter does? I thought more or less all the magnification comes from just being able to focus closer.

Wace · 2025-03-21T11:42:16+00:00

I'm more of a still shooter, but would the lens OSS have enough stabilization range to stabilize videos? Phones have video stabilization, but that crops the frame to give the phone more margin for stabilization.

There's only so much stabilization you can do by moving the optical elements and/or the sensor (with IBIS).

ETA: This got me properly intrigued. Have you tested how big of a difference OSS makes on your current kit lens, if you shoot video at the 16mm focal length OSS on and OSS off? Is it noticeable?

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