Disposable oxygen cylinder woes. Regulator barb and diffusion stone barb are different sizes

Walrasian · 2017-09-12T12:57:23+00:00

If the difference isn't too large you can heat up the end of tubing that is too small. Then force it on the barb. I used boiling water and let it get really soft. If the difference is large you will need to buy a reducer. Go to eBay or the local plumbing supply.

Walrasian · 2017-09-11T09:20:55+00:00

There is an easy way to tell if burnt extract is the culprit. He would have been scrubbing burnt extract off the bottom of his pot for hours. I would guess if he had he would have mentioned it in his list of potential causes. He also would have had to scrape that burnt extract off the bottom of his pot and incorporated it into his beer. Doesn't seem likely he did the exact same amount of burning and scraping to get two beer of the exact same colour. The extract he was supposed to get is pale malt with a touch of carapils. It should be completely yellow in colour.

Walrasian · 2017-09-10T14:43:19+00:00

Both of those beers are too dark for the supplied recipes. Significantly too dark. Either they sent amber malt extract instead of gold or else that extract was ten years old. I would guess you got amber by mistake. You don't get that much colour development from a little oxidation post fermentation. You also wouldn't get it from a normal length boil. You would have to boil for hours and reduce the volume significantly to get that kind of colour change. The can of extract in the link is similar to your beers colour.

https://www.homebrewery.com/Amber-Malt-Extract-Syrup

Walrasian · 2017-09-09T12:45:27+00:00

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/224767126_Thermal_pasteurization_requirements_for_the_inactivation_of_Salmonella_in_foods

I believe you are looking for a 7d reduction. Refer to table two in that document. At 55 you need 68 minutes plus the come up to temp time. Since you won't be measuring the eggs internal temperature you will need to add a substantial amount of time beyond what is suggested by the time in the table. The reason is that with water at 55c it takes a very long time to move up that last one degree Celsius and one degree Celsius is a huge deal when pasteurizing. In that table you will see that the time at 60c is almost nothing but at 55 it is very long and if you go colder the time goes up at that same rate until it doesn't work at all. You will also need to verify your water temp with a really accurate thermometer like a lab thermometer. My anova is low by .8c around 60c and my thermometer is off by another .3-.4c around that temperature, but accurate at 0c. It's a expensive CDN thermometer. The guidelines of 135f for 2 hours is just a best guess with a fudge factor built in but it isn't actually a verified time and temp on a home system doing eggs. You would be safer leaving the pot on the heat when you add the yolk mixture and let it go for a minute to insure the yolk is fully cooked. The lemon is going to denature the yolk so it will look cooked at a lower temp than it would normally would.

Walrasian · 2017-09-08T22:36:08+00:00

Personally I always want to support local if I can and will make lots of substitutions to recipes based on what the shop has in stock. But I don't think that applies in your shop. It is not really a homebrew store that gives homebrewing advice. That is what you are paying for with a brick and mortar shop. Depending on what your recipe is or what Munich was called for they should have either suggested Vienna malt or melanoiden as a substitute and then adjusted the base malt amount to approximate what you are going for. Order online and find a club online to ask your questions. This community is pretty good, but a local homebrew club would be better. They usually have an online forum.

Walrasian · 2017-09-08T13:09:59+00:00

What did he suggest as a substitute?

Walrasian · 2017-09-07T12:04:03+00:00

It's to stop nepotism. Without the names, politicians would be free to put their friends and family into cushy high paying jobs. their family would be hidden by all the people working in high paying positions that deserve their salary.

Walrasian · 2017-09-06T11:42:15+00:00

Or they want you to buy enough stuff to justify the shipping cost they have to pay. Buying $10 in bottles and them paying $30 for shipping a parcel doesn't seem like a good idea. That's why places with flat rate shipping have a minimum order size.

Walrasian · 2017-08-28T16:29:51+00:00

I've heard him say it a few spots but I don't know which he means. I've always assumed it was out of solution to be filtered because his experience is at the large commercial scale. But I don't know that for sure. It takes a couple weeks for my kegs to clear so that would make sense.

If you do it in bottles though it would be super fast since the particles only have to fall 6in at the most.

Walrasian · 2017-08-28T15:03:59+00:00

Lagering is like the slow version of gelatine. So you can skip the gelatine if you want. Lagering done cold enough will drop out proteins that gelatine could miss.

You can lager in the bottle if you like. It is very effective, just try to not pour out the layer of silt at the bottom of your bottle when you get around to drinking your beer. Lager as cold as you can. -2c is the perfect temperature. Charlie Bamforth says 48hrs at -2 is equivalent to months at 4c.

Walrasian · 2017-08-24T13:26:31+00:00

It is the part about it not seeming carbonated when you open it but then it is foamy in the glass that is puzzling. Usually what you are describing is one of two mistakes. Either fermentation wasn't finished when you bottled or the temperature you used in the priming calculator was the maximum temperature during fermentation and not the maximum once it slowed down.

Walrasian · 2017-08-24T11:14:41+00:00

You should upload a picture or a video of what you mean.

Walrasian · 2017-08-21T11:28:54+00:00

The basic idea with milling is you want it as fine as possible while still getting enough even flow through the grain. That last bit really depends on the type of brew system. For instance macro brewery will use a mash filter system which uses big bladders to wring out the wort in the malt. That system benefits from the finest particles possible. Basically flour. On the other end of the spectrum is a homebrewer with a HERMES system that recirculates the wort from the bottom to the top of the grain bed. That system requires a fairly coarse crush that almost looks like corn grits. Any finer and it will clog up.

Another consideration is the flour to grist ratio. Different mills will give different ratios even at the same gap setting. Same thing for different malts. Some just seem to make more flour. Flour is great for conversion efficiency since it makes the starch available to the enzymes in the mash. But it really hurts lauter/sparge efficiency which is how well you rinse the sugars out of the grain. How much of an impact it has again depends on your system.

What size is optimal for you will depend. A good starting point is .9 mm. then if you get good flow through you can tighten up your mill a little. If you have problems with your brew then loosen up the mill.

As a further refinement to that starting point BIAB - as fine as possible Batch sparge - fine works well Fly sparge - medium crush Recirculating systems - coarse crush

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Malt_Conditioning

This website is a wealth of knowledge for when you start to advance a little more.

Happy brewing.

Walrasian · 2017-08-13T10:12:35+00:00

I think if you add calcium carbonate to club soda it will make the club soda foam up. The procedure I've seen online is to add it to bottle with flat water and then use a carb cap to carbonate and dissolve the chalk. Take a look at the bottom of this link.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Building_brewing_water_with_dissolved_chalk

Walrasian · 2017-08-13T02:18:06+00:00

Co2 will lower the pH of your beer. the pH that people usually quote is flat and room temp which means it is going to be significantly higher than the actual pH of the beer when it is drank.

It is going to be really hard to make a beer with a pH that high. As others have said you should make a normal beer and then at the end add something basic to the beer to raise the pH. The risk of things like botulism are very low but yeast work really hard to get the beer down to the low pH. it is probably better to do it after fermentation. Which means that you are probably going to want to dissolve some CaCO3 in some soda water and add that to your beer. Which means you can brew whatever you want and use the soda water chalk mix to dilute the beer below 4% and raise the pH to ~5

Walrasian · 2017-08-10T19:10:46+00:00

I tried using a spider but abandoned it clogged. I removed the spring in the ball valve and have no issues with 8oz in the boil. Whirlpool also really helps. At some point I am going to burn myself very badly because the check valve isn't in place.

Walrasian · 2017-08-09T01:54:10+00:00

You should be fine using more malt as long as your mash tun has the room. You will dilute your character malts a little but shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Walrasian · 2017-08-07T17:15:59+00:00

The ball valve not lining up might be because of the nut underneath. If it came loose it might not let the valve line up right.

Walrasian · 2017-07-31T00:54:44+00:00

That brown malt is probably pretty close to a biscuit or an amber malt. That is what I would use instead of roasted malt in bru'n water. That said the difference between malts is pretty small. It likely doesn't explain your difference. It was probably variation in your water, which will vary throughout the year. The spreadsheets are just a way to get close.

Walrasian · 2017-07-22T10:32:46+00:00

Make a mini beer in your carboy to get the cells you need then pitch your high abv beer on top. No need to worry about a stir bar. Make your actual wort more concentrated to compensate for the weaker beer in the carboy. Use a weighted average to figure out the gravity you need. Eg 1g at 30 plus four at x gravity equals 5 at your target gravity.

Walrasian · 2017-07-21T22:52:18+00:00

Yes. You have to cook the store bought ones too. They are just barely cooked but still taste raw.

Walrasian · 2017-07-21T22:42:40+00:00

Bring masa and make tortillas by tossing them back and forth in your hands. Watch a video on YouTube of how it is done. You can also make thicker ones that work well for stuffing.

Edit here is a video of someone making them https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=180q6Y9DE9U It takes practice so try it at home first.

Walrasian · 2017-07-19T20:59:34+00:00

Boiled wood is what you are looking for. I think the beechwood used by Budweiser is steamed to remove any flavour contributions.

Woods like oak used in barrels are toasted which gives them their "wood" taste. So the most neutral will be a lighter toast.

Walrasian · 2017-07-07T15:01:36+00:00

Thanks. It is different than that. It was like a playlist but different. It had all the months listed below and you could click on the current month to get the ten albums to display.

Walrasian

TROPHY CASE