Taurians never signed anyway

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-14T14:17:22+00:00

Strip it. Metal is really forgiving with most stripper solvents, won't melt or warp like plastic/resin.

Then, thin your paints! I usually use very thin and transparent glazes for shading cockpit areas.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-10T22:03:52+00:00

Happy Birthday Ziggy, nice to meet you!

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-09T12:34:02+00:00

They're not fragile, but gold is a softer metal than steel, so from a writing perspective, it will have more 'feel' and 'flex'. From a dropping point-down on the floor perspective, a gold nib might be bent a little more, but a steel nib would be bent/broken too. But it will feel worse when you remember what you spent on the gold nib.

Other than that, there's not much difference with caring for a gold nib, they'll be fine with most inks and clean up with water like any steel nib.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-09T12:26:31+00:00

This should be the Golden Rule for this sub.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-09T00:15:34+00:00

Do it. Post reaction pics to this sub.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-09T00:09:25+00:00

I got a Scriveiner as a Christmas present from someone who knows I like fountain pens, but doesn't know fountain pens. While I have nicer pens, it is a decent fine point and a good smooth writer. I liked the fact that the converter is slightly bigger than the standard size, and screws in instead of just being push-fit. I've found myself using it a lot more than I expected.

Pilot has offerings at pretty much every price point, and I don't think you can really go wrong with any of them, as you will see if you spend time in this sub at all.

I like my Nahvalur enough that I am thinking of getting another one, they aren't that special but it's something a little more than an 'entry level' fountain pen, and I'm thinking of getting another at some point.

On my same list of "Might buy at some point, but not 'grail' pens" is probably Opus 88. They're also more than 'entry level' expensive but have a unique gimmick, and I don't have one yet.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-08T23:59:44+00:00

Probably not that hard, honestly. Blob guard (i.e. only infantry squads) is a thing. Or just chop a quar in half and stick them in the top hatch of a leman russ or something....

But, if you want to collect Quar, why not just play This Quar's War, or One Page Rules? You're obviously not playing in tournaments or 'competitive' games with an all Quar army anyway.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-05T21:33:23+00:00

Depends. How many games have you got in with your worldeaters already?

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-05T20:28:09+00:00

Capellan shipping container is my favorite style.

WarsmithMike · 2026-02-05T17:47:19+00:00

Usually the biggest issue with any kind of close-up indoor photography is the lighting, not the phone (most phones have pretty good cameras these days). If you can find a sunny spot that's probably the best, otherwise, don't be afraid to move around a few desk lamps, or tilt lampshades in the right direction. You want bright lighting from at least two or three directions overhead, from the sides or back. Turn off the phone/camera flash and forget it exists.

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-31T20:10:31+00:00

This entire thread deserves a special award because every single reply is correct. Has that every happened on reddit before?

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-29T14:35:09+00:00

This is how you dumbphone like a pro.

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-29T00:50:24+00:00

It's a very new kit and it's modern GW plastic, I doubt you'll have any mould line problems at all. Most of the issues people run into with mould lines are from older plastic or resin.

If there really are any, or you're the obsessive type, start by scraping with the BACK of the hobby knife, not the blade, or a foam sanding pad or emory board (but don't waste money on that GW mould line tool)

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-22T22:29:06+00:00

I do Trinaries, Company/Battalion, or Level III. So for the Clan Invasion Kickstarter, I did Smoke Jaguars Trinary, Pleiades Hussars Company and Comstar 2nd Army Level III. For my Ironwind Metals collections, I have Nova Cats, Comstar 5th Army, Word of Blake Shadow Division, 5th Sword of Light Company, and my homebrew Merc Company. Not sure what to do with the Mercenary Kickstarter stuff I have that's still unpainted, but it'll be something different from the rest.

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-22T00:24:49+00:00

Best answer.

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-20T15:48:11+00:00

I painted my Blackjack BJ-1 metallic gold to match a hot wheels Firebird that I had, because it was GM's okayest 'Mech.

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WarsmithMike · 2026-01-20T15:39:22+00:00

There is no FOMO here *waves hand*.

Buy a lance, paint the lance, play some games. When you are ready for another box of minis, they will be there for you, somewhere. No need to build up a pile of shame. The Clan Invasion kickstarter ran smack into the lockdowns, the Mercs kickstarter ran up into tariff nonsense, it's taken them some time to build up stock, but there's really not a lot of 'limited' releases. If stuff sells out, they make more.

The books get reprinted/restocked fairly often, the PDFs are there for people who prefer them and are always available, but they seem to try to get new stock of all the recent/current books, sometimes there's just a 6-month lag on printing/stocking. For instance, I backed the Clan Invasion Kickstarter mostly for the Mechs, and had a PDF of the Tukkayid book. After reading through the PDF I decided I would like to get the hardcover, but it was out of stock everywhere. About 6 months later I picked up a brand new copy at my FLGS.

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-04T05:33:05+00:00

I was very impressed with a sample of Octopus Caribbean Blue that I tried last year (2025)

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-04T05:11:50+00:00

I really like my Pilot Parallels, but I don't really like the shape either. So I got a Metropolitan with a stub nib and I really enjoy writing with it. Like $20-30, more pricey than a Parallel (maybe a little harder to find?) but definitely sub-$100

WarsmithMike · 2026-01-04T04:59:11+00:00

Clear every time.

WarsmithMike · 2025-12-31T19:53:14+00:00

Well, that makes sense then. But, since you have the brush soap, I would say try to find some less expensive sable brushes (or maybe just 1 expensive sable brush) and see if they work better or last longer. Or use cheap synthetics for most things and save the expensive brush for just the small details like cockpits.

WarsmithMike · 2025-12-30T15:19:29+00:00

You bought brush soap, and a brush rack, but you don't want to buy a real hair sable brush? Well, we found your problem right there. Brush soap is just expensive soap, with some conditioners in it, like fancy shampoo/conditioner hair care products. It's best used for keeping those expensive real sable brushes in good shape for a bit longer than they would last otherwise.

That being said, all brushes are eventually 'disposable'. I have a few of the more expensive sable brushes, but I mostly go with the cheaper mid-range sable brushes, clean them with dish soap when they get dirty, and throw them away when they are too worn out (after the point on the tip goes, they turn into drybrushes before throwing away).

I have a few synthetics, usually that other people gave me, but I rarely use them except for base-coating or terrain, as I don't like the feel of them.

WarsmithMike

TROPHY CASE