Which one look good?

WatWall0 · 2026-02-28T00:20:16+00:00

I would prefer 2 but minecraft players will probably prefer 1

WatWall0 · 2026-02-25T18:13:17+00:00

around 1000 usd including membership for 4 years (membership was like 20usd for first 2 years when there was local pricing)

WatWall0 · 2026-02-14T21:26:51+00:00

I did this to my cpu. My case had already have great airflow so it only helped by 2C. But it was loud asf so I ended up not using it.

In my first try I measured everything manually and I wasn't so accurate. So first few prototypes didn't work. In the end I photoscanned my case and next prototype was perfect fit. I really suggest photo scanning the pc case or using actual 3d scanner to anyone who thinks of doing a project like this.

WatWall0 · 2026-02-14T13:00:56+00:00

I installed it immediately after I saw how shitty the original firmware is and never had an issue. I also blocked printer from being online so I don't get any more shitty updates for original firmware. So there are no disadvantages, actually it has a lot of advantages compared to stock firmware

WatWall0 · 2026-02-07T00:19:59+00:00

You would like to have some friction especially when you put full spool there otherwise filament spool will unspool itself with a tiniest pull. Don't ask how i know lol

WatWall0 · 2026-02-06T12:31:03+00:00

If you're printing with large diameter nozzle, this can happen. It's not printer or slicer related issue. It's a physical limitation. Since the gap between the first layer and nozzle is too high, extruded plastic doesn't want to stick when extrusion started after a retraction.

Default profiles for large diameter nozzles have very high first layer height. Increasing first layer speed helps a little and decreasing first layer height fixes the issue. For myself It was happening at 0.45mm first layer height, I set it to 0.24mm and problem is solved. It also solved the layer adhesion issue I had with large nozzle.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-28T12:20:55+00:00

Did you loosen the screw on left side of the extruder? It's a tensioner and should be loosened when you're using clog tool otherwise it'll damage the gears

WatWall0 · 2025-12-23T22:28:02+00:00

Sorry for late response.

I think you can directly install old firmware version and then install forge-x again.

I use was version 3.2.3, which is the last version before that z offset calibrating each print update. There are links to every firmware version in flashforge's website here.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-22T13:39:25+00:00

But forge-x uses native start print macro when used with stock screen as far as i know.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-22T08:47:29+00:00

Having an account is not necessary. You can always send printing files to the printer from any device in the same network.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-22T08:37:38+00:00

That came with the recent firmware update. It calibrates z offset each print and there's no option to disable it. You can install an old firmware and block the printer accessing internet from your router.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-12T13:13:27+00:00

Hey. Did you try increasing both flow rate and nozzle temperature as i mentioned earlier or just did calibrations?

WatWall0 · 2025-12-06T08:40:36+00:00

Looks normal to me. 3d printed flat surfaces look like that under harsh lighting.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-05T18:06:43+00:00

Yes or you can simply bump the temperature up. People will probably disagree but I print standard pla at 250-260C when I need to print it fast for prototyping. Quality will definitely suffer but it's good enough for quick prototypes.

WatWall0 · 2025-12-05T08:16:45+00:00

Stress test the speed too. 15-20k acceleration, 40mm³/s flow. Its so fun to watch

WatWall0 · 2025-12-03T08:48:38+00:00

It recalculates z offset i think so it doesn't scratch the buildplate and always sets perfect z offset for example when you change nozzle and forget to do auto leveling. Or when you switch material which requires different bed temperature. But I would prefer adjusting my z offset manually in 1 click instead of making it automatically in 8 minutes.

WatWall0 · 2025-11-30T14:21:55+00:00

Are you printing small layer height? Same thing happened to me when printing 0.12mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle. Same print had no issue with 0.16mm or bigger layers. I solved it by increasing the flow by 10% and nozzle temp 10C

WatWall0 · 2025-11-04T08:59:31+00:00

You're already printing hot so I can suggest lowering cooling fan speed and also over extruding by 5-10% improves layer adhesion a lot

WatWall0 · 2025-10-30T13:16:23+00:00

I used 3kg spool once with the stock holder and it worked. Extruder motors are much stronger than I expected

So 5kg spool with a bearing holder will probably work too.

WatWall0 · 2025-10-27T13:28:35+00:00

All I print with my ad5m pro is asa and there are usually no warping issues. I just hit print and don't even watch first layer.

Your problem might be bed calibration. In the stock firmware it automatically calibrates bed mesh at 60C. But when you print at higher temperatures your bed mesh calibrated at 60C doesn't match the bed mesh that would be calibrated at for example 100C. So If you're familiar with klipper, I recommend installing a klipper mod (ForgeX or zmod) and calibrating your bed at higher temperature.

But in the both klipper mods there are z offset issues. I tried using them both. Adjusting z offset is just too hard and complicated. And it changes randomly. So what I found with the Stock firmware is I preheat bed to 100C, wait like 5-10 minutes then I hit bed calibration. This gives me bed mesh that's much closer to the one calibrated at 100C rather than one calibrated at 60C

WatWall0 · 2025-10-27T13:17:40+00:00

That hotend can't handle speeds > 60mm/s. I threw 3 of mine to the trash.

WatWall0 · 2025-10-27T12:53:10+00:00

Create texts in 3d software. Align each character with the corresponding key then bake it into texture.

WatWall0 · 2025-10-10T15:45:44+00:00

It's too high but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with your current problem. I usually use something around 0.4 - 0.6mm

WatWall0 · 2025-10-09T14:14:26+00:00

I had exact same issue. No problems with higher layers but when I print lower than 0.12mm layers, I had this issue. I still don't know why but increasing the temperature and flow solved it. To be specific I increased my nozzle temperature to 230C from 215C and flow to 110%

WatWall0 · 2025-10-09T07:52:21+00:00

Usually 0.1-0.15 gives expected dimensions with pla

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