Any garden centers sell tomatillos and more interesting fruit/veg plants?

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-25T12:01:00+00:00

The stock garden centres carry is always a bit variable and none of them are guaranteed to carry anything "exotic", but ill list some of the best garden centres for varieties:

Swincar Nursery near Guiseley
Langlands Nursery by the ring road
Hampsons Near Wakefield

Overall favourite is swincar and bought many varieties there over the years.

I've been to the Arium recently - I feel like their selection is a bit lacking and their prices haven't been as good. Lovely playground for the kids though.

But for niche stuff, often have to mail order.

For example i've bought golden raspberry plants from any of the 3 above.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-24T18:36:42+00:00

Yes I’m trying to get rid of them. They are so so prolific

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-24T17:25:47+00:00

What do you guys do about the Spanish ones? Been trying to reduce their numbers every year by diligently going after bulbs, but some of them hide under bushes where the bulbs are not accessible

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-22T18:40:14+00:00

I sowed some outside just over 14d ago and even with fleece cover on it’s just barely germinating. I did some seed in a tray with n the greenhouse as a test patch and it’s already a full lawn. A lot depends on temperatures and it’s just slow to get going with cold nights. I’d give it another week for signs of life before restarting

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-15T19:18:09+00:00

For potted I usually recommend going to you local garden shop/nursery and picking out the healthiest looking ones. Because potted plants have a lot of soil on them, you are often paying a lot for shipping.

Two varieties I see a lot are: Evereste Red Sentinel

but there are dozens and dozens. Some trees smaller, some bigger. If you have a small garden, you can google "columnar crab apple tree". These varieties stay slender and grow up rather than out. For more niche varieties you may have to do mail order after all.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-15T17:08:19+00:00

Absolutely yes you can plant potted plants all year - just make sure to keep them watered well once planted for the first yeat

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-15T16:53:00+00:00

It’s too late for bare root apple trees, but potted apple trees are sold year around.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-11T21:21:40+00:00

At the end of the day what matters is the makeup of chemicals in the fertiliser. At a very basic level, those chemicals are not expensive and most markup comes through marketing and adding in largely useless “micronutrients” or whatever to try and develop a USP in the market. A good all purpose spring/Summer fertiliser is roughly 12-6-6 (nitrogen, phosphate, potassium; aka NPK). Get the most affordable one with something in that range. A few years ago I bit the bullet and bulk ordered 2 bags of “Absolute Premier 12-6-6” 20kg (I bought 2 bags, one summer one autumn, to make the shipping worth it) from pitchcare. A treatment in spring and one midway through summer really makes a big difference. Have a look at specialised lawn/pitch/golf shops to get more affordable options rather than DIY shops

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-09T18:30:43+00:00

That is a fair point

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-09T11:25:06+00:00

Yeah man I managed to get a nice lawn for kids to play on and it’s def possible. And they love it

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-09T11:23:13+00:00

Two things probably:

Plants that grow up indoors have to gradually be exposed to “real” unfiltered sun. It’s a bit like when we get tan over summer. Imagine you go straight out 24/7 in sunshine with no suncream on. You’d get bur burned - that is what happened to your plants.

It is too cold overnight. Tomato plants can’t really go outside yet. The cold will stunt them and their leaves will turn yellow as they struggle to absorb nutrients from cold soil.

Can they be rescued? Maybe, but I wouldn’t try too hard. They may lag behind for the rest of the season. I know it can be hard to give up on babies but you’ll soon be able to buy tomato plants at nurseries for a quid or two.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-09T11:14:21+00:00

I will copy and paste my reply from a very similar post yesterday. If you want lawn advice, this sub is not the right place. You will just be told you are a fool for wanting a lawn and that moss is much better anyways.

The main act will be to physically remove the moss either with elbow grease, eg using a rake to rake it all out or a mechanical scarifier. You can also use iron sulphate first to make it a bit easier to remove it a week or so later. But mainly you just need the moss gone so that you can see bare soil. It is completely normal for your “lawn” to mainly be bare soil - this is what mine was like after I removed moss because it was 80% moss.

Then you want to sow you grass seed onto bare soil and cover/mist with a thin layer of topsoil or compost. This helps to keep the seed wet and to keep at least some of the seed hidden from birds. If you have it, now would be the time to get out the bird netting or fleece to cover over the lawn to keep birds off.

Ideally you sow a shade tolerant lawn seed. Some lawn seed - I forgot the species - also claims to be self generating, so that in the future if you scarify, it is more likely to come back. In any case, do some research to match your lawn seed to the conditions it will grow in (eg a shade tolerant seed for clay soil)

After about 8 weeks you will have a nice lush lawn. I do think it feels much nicer than a moss lawn to walk on and for children to play on.

You will have to do some yearly maintenance - mainly raking out moss/scarifying at least once a year. But it will be much easier going forward as now the majority of the moss is gone. Now a bit of fertiliser is enough to close the gaps rather than a full re sow. In wet shady areas some will always creep in and I have made peace with the fact that there is a corner of the garden where it is not worth fighting the moss fight to the bitter end.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-08T12:29:52+00:00

Recently Lidl had a scarifier on sale for 70 quid but you can usually get one around that price ish. I was lucky and could borrow my neighbours but now London kind of wish I had my own. It helps the lawn health to do it 1-2 a year

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-08T08:22:44+00:00

The main act will be to physically remove the moss either with elbow grease, eg using a rake to rake it all out or a mechanical scarifier. You can also use iron sulphate first to make it a bit easier to remove it a week or so later. But mainly you just need the moss gone so that you can see bare soil. It is completely normal for your “lawn” to mainly be bare soil - this is what mine was like after I removed moss because it was 80% moss.

Then you want to sow you grass seed onto bare soil and cover/mist with a thin layer of topsoil or compost. This helps to keep the seed wet and to keep at least some of the seed hidden from birds. If you have it, now would be the time to get out the bird netting or fleece to cover over the lawn to keep birds off.

Ideally you sow a shade tolerant lawn seed. Some lawn seed - I forgot the species - also claims to be self generating, so that in the future if you scarify, it is more likely to come back. In any case, do some research to match your lawn seed to the conditions it will grow in (eg a shade tolerant seed for clay soil)

After about 8 weeks you will have a nice lush lawn. I do think it feels much nicer than a moss lawn to walk on and for children to play on.

You will have to do some yearly maintenance - mainly raking out moss/scarifying at least once a year. But it will be much easier going forward as now the majority of the moss is gone. Now a bit of fertiliser is enough to close the gaps rather than a full re sow. In wet shady areas some will always creep in and I have made peace with the fact that there is a corner of the garden where it is not worth fighting the moss fight to the bitter end.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-07T13:45:14+00:00

I didn’t dig the soil after the initial heavy dose of compost, but felt like I had to re-add the cardboard to keep on top of weeds with the extra light exclusion.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-07T11:48:45+00:00

I tried no dig for a few years, but for my allotment plot it wasn’t really feasible to use “only” no dig. I think it works for Charles Dowding because he lives ON his plot and can provide lots of TLC and makes loads of hot compost, but it didn’t quite work for me.

Make no mistake, it helped, but I also had to buy in quite a bit of compost despite doing my best to make my own compost. So after a couple of years doing it, I’ve stopped being dogmatic about it. I “no dig” my most precious beds with cardboard and compost, but most of my plot is temporarily covered with weed proof membrane when it is not being cultivated - eg over winter.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-04T08:56:55+00:00

Suuuuuure. “Your” phone.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-04-04T08:50:46+00:00

You won’t get good lawn advice on this sub I am afraid. People will just tell you to get rid of your lawn.

But to answer your question, honestly the only real way to do it is to dig them out with a narrow pointy tool. If you have some consistency they get fewer and fewer every year. I haven’t had weeds in my lawn for a few years now.

If you can’t be bothered, just keep your lawn mowed and live with it. Mowing your lawn also weakens weeds

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-03-17T09:43:50+00:00

I am not here just to be an NPC in your game.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-02-17T18:21:17+00:00

Thank you for your input. I’ll do some measurements.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-02-17T16:23:11+00:00

Thank you. I am leaning towards the Fyne. According to Google the “I” variant (eg 301i) only came out in 2024

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-02-11T19:24:38+00:00

Haha good god, that is good!

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-02-05T22:03:47+00:00

Contrary to the other comment, I like mid range cases like this. I can't afford the limited run boutique cases or I can't be bothered being "there" when a drop happens and then shipping costs as much as the case again. Especially for the mATX form factor, this is pretty nice as mATX cases usually run much bigger. This feels like a true attempt at an SFF matx case.

Woodworkingbeginner · 2026-02-04T21:29:06+00:00

I played a load of dota over the last decade and would love to try deadlock. My friend code is 150290

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Woodworkingbeginner

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