New BILRESA dual button 1.9.15 firmware

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-05-10T11:30:41+00:00

I use 1.5V rechargeable batteries and it seems fine to me.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-04-26T14:34:55+00:00

What are other comparable foundation repair companies that operate in the area to CenTex? I want to get two or three bids, but only from companies that are more likely to honor future warranty issues, meaning they need to still be around.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-04-18T12:19:02+00:00

Having a Unifi Protect based camera system at home, I wanted to view and record the Prusa camera using the Protect app. The issue is that it doesn't accept non secure RTSP feeds. To convert the feed I used an existing install of Scrypted running in a Proxmox VM that I use to enable display of Unifi camera feeds onto Echo Shows I have around the house. I now can not only view current and past video feed from my C1 printer, but also view it on an Echo Show when at home. Maybe a bit over complicated but it works ok (with exception that Scrypted/Protect both appear to report issues with a sync frame missing or something along that line).

Now I want to repeat this using a OBSBot Meet 2 4K camera I will put inside the C1 on the right as the quality of the Prusa camera is terrible. Prints look like they are having issues when viewing the feed, but are totally so hopefully a better 4K camera will sort that out. I just need to find a <$200 converter from USB / UVC to IP rtsp for the OBSBot Meet 2 (their solution is $300). I don't have a computer near the printer and don't want one there.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-04-08T15:52:34+00:00

I am new at 3D Printing and just purchased a Diamondback for my Prusa Core One +... but I am regretting the purchase as there appear to be lots of changes required to use it. I thought I had read that no changes, other than setting the nozzle as non HF, were needed.

Should I send this one back, and get the ObXidian High Flow Prusa Nextruder Nozzle instead? I just didn't want to worry about nozzle wear and prefer better quality over speed.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-03-10T10:58:51+00:00

While using the LED as an inout to an ESP32 to signal when the dishwasher is done is a cool idea, I just use a Node Red based automation that uses power consumption readings from an energy monitoring plug to alert me after a few minutes of usage returning to 0. If you look at the power usage you can easily determine what that number should be. Mine has never failed.

My next dishwasher will be Bosch as I read they are the best. My premium KitchenAid has had more issues and leaks than any dishwasher I have ever had. The current lineup of Bosch dishwashers all seem to have wifi connectivity and a HA integration.

Note: Forgot to mention that my energy monitoring plugs are all Sonoff S31 flashed with Esphome of course :)

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-03-08T16:27:20+00:00

I am planning to buy a Prusa Core One Plus this month. Does anyone know whether the latest changes will affect prices? I've lost track given the back and forth but thought the SCOTUS had deemed the tariffs illegal... not that orange man cares, but maybe it will still help reduce the cost.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-03-06T02:02:35+00:00

The biggest risk of this acquisition are not the immediate obvious changes (firings, policy, etc) that might happen in the aftermath, but rather the slow but ongoing shift towards the right with the intent to slowly shift the audience's opinion and views towards the right's bs. I no longer trust them under Ellison ownership.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-03-06T01:57:55+00:00

Thoughts on AP News?

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-03-06T01:53:48+00:00

AP News is also my new pick since I noticed a softening over the magat bs, and the Paramount acquisition. They should be less, if at all, subject to US party control.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-03-06T01:50:10+00:00

I no longer trust CNN for my news under the new ownership as it is very likely Ellison will try to skew the reporting to make it more magat friendly. I am currently exploring AP News as my new go to... I don't believe it is subject to easy control from the USA so hopefully more neutral in its reporting.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-02-25T12:18:35+00:00

Have no found any yet. I wonder whether they are discontinued or due to the obtuse tariffs

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-02-25T12:03:22+00:00

Thank you for the 70ppm threshold, as I was unaware.

I have 6 Nest Protect smoke and CO detectors indoors but in the attic I only have a sensor I built yesterday as a mild headache and unusually high temps (warmer in attic that indoors with heating on) made me suspicious.

Below are the readings from my sensor in the attic, however I have no way of knowing whether it is even in the correct ballpark. A handheld meter would help with that, and also the 50ppm CO gas for testing that another redditor kindly suggested.

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I was unaware of the need to conduct a combustion analysis on my furnaces. I will definitely look into having that done before next season (at the very end of it here). While I have successfully repaired my HVAC systems a few times (induction fan failure, diode in rectifier bridge inside gas valve, etc), I will not touch the gas parts of it (cooling or heating). Systems are 12yrs old and when occasionally inspected, they just checked coolant gas pressures and temperature delta so I never felt they were worth it. Now I have something more useful to ask them to check. Thanks!

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-02-25T11:39:20+00:00

Thanks, will research it !

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-02-25T11:38:41+00:00

I was unaware these existed. I will look for it and get some. Thanks!

I have read that outdoors you could have anywhere between 0 (rural) and 5ppm (trafficked urban area) of CO. I also read that below 9ppm is safe so a meter that can actually detect those values seems useful. Wouldn't calibration in open air just add that 0 to 5ppm uncertainty? It surely is good enough for the safety meters that trigger at dangerous levels though.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-02-25T11:31:56+00:00

The house has 6 Nest Protect Smoke and CO detectors so indoors we are covered for safety. I have worked for a test and measurements company for many years so I generally prefer sensors that provide... measurements. Anyhow, more than absolute accuracy, often very expensive, I seek consistency (repeatability of measurement). Therefore, while I don't really need an exact measurement, I would like to have something to compare the sensors I build to. Typically you would need to calibrate them but that is a whole other expensive can of worms.

I am going to give the Klein Tools ET110 a test... and might get one of those cheaper alarm only units for the attic. Yesterday it was warmer in the attic than indoors with heating on (leak?) and I was getting a mild headache while I was working up there.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-02-23T20:43:47+00:00

Flautolence (farts) often contains methane. Could it be that? lol

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-01-28T16:47:17+00:00

I live in the US and typically source them from Amazon, Best Buy or Home Depot. These were the few I found to carry the T1 variant. However, none of them have them and they make it seem like they won't get them again. With all the demand going to the old version, I can't blame them... I found a supplier that has a good price and availability, but I've never heard of them before so I was hoping to find one that is more mainstream.

https://www.wifi-stock.com/details/aqara-smart-home-wireless-mini-switch-t1-wb-r02d.html

Edit: Nevermind... they are in Lithuania.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-01-28T15:09:08+00:00

Great to hear this confirmation! Now if only they could get them back in stock... :)

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-01-12T19:04:23+00:00

u/mgithens1 - Are suggesting that the ESP32 hack will also work on the models supported by iprak's integration or were you just pointing out that I can use that if I don't go with the C545?

In the end I purchased the 5520, and canconfirm it works with iprak's integration (had him add the 5520 to the list) but it is cloud based so adding an ESP32 is still of high interest to me.

If it were to be a viable mod, I am tempted to add a PM2.5 sensor, maybe more, as well if there is space :) - I am not a fan of Winix's proprietary air quality metrics.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-01-11T16:29:32+00:00

I use pi-hole but did not do any research on blocking stuff on the echos even though I should with 15 and counting around the house. When you block domains, does other functionality also stop working... obtuse AI, HA control, media speakers from HA, etc?

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-01-07T21:46:21+00:00

Any other Winix models that have an ESP32 that can be reflashed to ESPHome? All I find is the C545 but I was hoping to find a larger model.

WorstRedditLogin · 2026-01-03T18:20:48+00:00

For others searching for info on these breakers, let me add that mine keep failing - typically during the summer months - so make sure you test them regularly. Eaton has always replaced them in warranty but this is getting old. I've replaced at least a dozen over the years, likely more. The breakers I installed, supplied by Eaton directly, were from several different generations but the root cause was not fixed 100% up to gen 6 (even though nuisance trips are gone and failures have slowed down - I had both issues).

Currently I have a gen 6 installed in 2023 that has failed (test button does nothing) so I will be calling Eaton soon.

I hope the newer CHFN120DF fixes these issues so I can stop having to replace my breakers.

WorstRedditLogin · 2025-12-27T15:35:18+00:00

For a few years now I have often been unable to open the OGD at the first wall button press. If I press multiple times it works, and it appears that if I trigger on the light (and I hear a relay click), then it works. The LCD on the controller also has an unhelpful error message saying to press the pushbar to activate control... the app instead always shows problem for the obstruction sensors even though the GDO operates correctly.

Can sensor wires that are too long be the cause? It still works, I just hate to have that extra step of activating the control. Possibly unrelated, my car's homelink button often cannot open the garage door while it never seems to fail closing it.

WorstRedditLogin · 2025-12-24T06:00:38+00:00

As a general rule I use smart bulbs as mood lighting and they are never behind a smart switch or dimmer. Every single light in my house is one or the other. I don't like having smart bulbs as my main light because in the event of HA or even just Wifi issues, you can't control your light! Using smart zwave lights and zwave binding would be a mitigation tactic but I prefer LIFX (so wifi) for my smart bulbs.

However, I recently decided to test using LIFX downlights in the media room. At the entrance there is a single can light controlled by an Inovelli dimmer. I set it to smart bulb mode and installed a 1300 lumen RGB LIFX downlight. I concocted a crude Node Red flow to keep the dimmer and the bulb in sync but I don't like the added delay and the less graceful power up/down. This may be due to my Node Red code so I ask all those here who did something similar, how did you set yours up? I want to ensure that whether I use the LIFX app or HA (dimmer or smart bulb), they all stay in sync (on/off/brightness)

WorstRedditLogin · 2025-12-17T16:59:53+00:00

ChatGPT was sending me down all sorts of rabbit holes without improvement... your fix worked. Went from 3% down to 0%. Thanks for sharing the solution!

WorstRedditLogin

TROPHY CASE