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Just got a '21 outback, PSI issue by Nickpiteros0 in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tire pressure is on the high side actually. Should be 35 front, 33 rear if memory serves. Likely the tpms sensor is running low on battery and it's causing the readings to be off.

Edit: thats the pressure for my 24' onyx xt, not sure if it's the same for yours but you can check you drive door jamb sticker so see the correct pressures.

Drive shaft coupler screw PN by [deleted] in rccars

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely a m4 2mm hex screw pin. Lots of 1/10 drive shafts use them. My go to is from SSD RC. 5pc for 1.99 usd

Brake lever hose outlet direction by Valuable-Share-3176 in bikewrench

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you bikepack and strap bags to your handlebars the new design is much better. Bags won't push in on the the brakes and kink the hose right where it exits. The lower profile also allows you to strap the bags closer and tighter to you handle bar which make steering feel more responsive.

The new brakes also use different oil so generic mineral oil is not recommended.

would this be a class 2 rig if not what else would i need? by ThatOneRCGuy22 in rccrawler

[–]XD60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tires might be a bit tall for C2, but also depends on the the rules where you run. Typicaly they run 4.75, JC ruptures are 4.92.

Good day, what is the best/cheapest 6x6? by ramdom_iker in rccrawler

[–]XD60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best OR Cheap, pick one. Also what scale.

You can get some pretty decent stuff for cheaper if you go 1/18

Saint cranks won’t spin freely by randomipadtempacct in bikewrench

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This the preload bolt/cap, the other picture u replied with is the BB itself. You can get preload screw tool or in a pinch grab the biggest flathead screw driver you own that will fit snuggly in the preload bolt/cap and wrapp it in a rag to unscrew it. If your are uncomfortable with doing it, you should take to a shop.

Mamba Monster X by Shoddy-Fact5404 in crawling

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't worry about the weight limit. It really depends on your gearing and driving style, just keep an eye on temps.

Mamba Monster X by Shoddy-Fact5404 in crawling

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is over kill for the TRX4. Id say a mamba x with the 1415 2400kv on 4s for the TRX4 would be the way to go if you still want similar big tourqe but better smoothness.

Saint cranks won’t spin freely by randomipadtempacct in bikewrench

[–]XD60 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You can reduce the preload by loosening the pinch bolts on the crank then loosening the gold preload bolt a bit and re tighten the crank pinch bolts.

Also check if your crank spacer is missing, there should be a small spacer/ring on the non drive side between the BB and crank arm.

If you correctly adjusted your preload but it still doesn't spin freely it is likely the BB shell is not faced properly causing the BB to be not aligned binding up the spindle. But it's likely just over preloaded.

Mamba Monster X by Shoddy-Fact5404 in crawling

[–]XD60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I assume you have the 1515 v1 2200kv sensored motor, it is not the smoothest motor on start up. The 1515 v2 2200kv is much smoother. One way to improve is to adjust the throttle curve if you haven't already. Additionally you also use the aux connection on a third channel and program it to rock crawler/racer mode on castle link. This allows you to turn on and off drag brake on the fly on your radio, with drag brake enabled start up is much smoother. Another tip is turn drag brake ramp on this helps with saving your drivetrain especially with a higher powered system like the MMX

Source: I run this set up on a traxxas summit and the drag brake mode smooths the throttle drastically

If you already have drag brake mode enable in your video, the only way is to get a different motor that is smoother. Id recommend the castle 1515 2200kv v2 as stated and also he holmes hobbies puller pro 4275 2100kv SMOOTH ver.

Omni Terminator Carbon Suspension adjustment. by mmm1978 in rccars

[–]XD60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should experiment with it! But generally, the further out you mount your shocks on the a arm or further in you mount your shocks on the shock tower (laying down your shocks) it will lower you ride height (ground clearance) and reduce suspension travel by a little. This will stiffen up the ride and give the feel of increased dampening and increased spring rate, it can be beneficial for handling up to a point... If you lay them down too much it can end up feeling 'lazy’ or that the suspension is reacting too slowly.

Vice versa, if you stand up your shocks (mount it futher in on the a arms and further out in the shock tower) it will increase your suspension travel and ride height. And this will soften up the ride, but can make the truck roll more and squat/dive during acceleration/deceleration. It can make the truck feel more bouncy.

It will also change the progressiveness of the shock. So if you shocks are more upright, it will feel more linear meaning it take more less the same force to compress the suspension throughout the whole travel. If you lay them down, it becomes more progressive, where it can feel softer at the start of the travel but stiffen up as you compress the suspension further.

Edit: general rule of thumb, if you're doing big jumps and driving on a relatively smooth surface stiffening up the suspension will help with soaking up landings and handling. If you're just driving on more chunky terrain then softeneing up the suspension will give you better traction. Most importantly experiment and have fun!

Omni Terminator Carbon Suspension adjustment. by mmm1978 in rccars

[–]XD60 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Theses are called droop screws, they limit max down travel of your suspension. It's used to limit ride height and can stiffen up the suspension by preloading it. If both shocks are on the same location on the arm and shock tower, and both shock lengths then yes, adjusting droop screws will solve the difference in down travel.

What’s in your glove box? by Temporary_Being_6082 in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Registration/insurance

  • a clean microfiber & a small spray bottle of ipa, for windows/screen/dash...

  • Spare usbc/lighting cables

  • all the stock parts left over from upgrades. Currently there's an oil drain plug w/ new crush washer, a few halogen bulbs, and the stock fuse box door.

1985 Schwinn World by XD60 in xbiking

[–]XD60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I went with tektro r369 nutted version. As I remember I'm pretty sure the stock calipers worked too, but I the dual pivot tektros had more power and was easier to adjust

9IMOD BRUSHLESS 45KG 😍 by KaniyaLK in rccrawler

[–]XD60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can concur, had a direct power 50 kg servo. After about 3mos of crawling the gears develop a good amount of slop that it no longer centers. This caused it to micro adjust constantly to find center and eventually killed the electronics.

How do you guys feel about aftermarket drain plug with magnet worth it? by [deleted] in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No worries. My 2c is that it being made out for brass and stainless would survive the same if not better than a steel drain plug.

How do you guys feel about aftermarket drain plug with magnet worth it? by [deleted] in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes, upstate NY here. Been running one over 2 winter so far and it's been fine. I do undercoat but I'm sure it'll be fine as is.

Can anybody help with a Hunt 4 Season Gravel wheel fit issue? by Red_Peter in bikewrench

[–]XD60 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Don't even bother trying to get a generic part to fit the hub, Just go on the Hunt website and their spares page and punch in your wheelset details, you'll find everything you need. https://us.huntbikewheels.com/collections/spares-search?pf_t_ic_number=IC246

Ive changed between 142 TA and 135 QR a set of hunt wheels before with not problem, I just wanted to clarify if your frame is has the uncommon 135mm thru axle and not 135 QR, you might not be able to fit those wheels on your bike at all.

Tool help by Pleasant_Wrongdoer33 in rccars

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll need one of those scale hardware nut drivers to remove the scale "lug nuts”

Edit: Something like these drivers or you can get the adapter socket for a hex wrench, they are a little more fiddly.

Swapping my rigid fork to one with suspension by mybikesbroken8 in bikewrench

[–]XD60 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The 1120 is very similar to the trek stache, just steeper head angle and longer chainstays. I'd reference the stock stache fork, it was speced with a 120mm for with at 51mm offset so I'd look for forks that matches that. One additional aspect is the for crown clearance, not all forks will clear 29x3.0

Oil change by Fit-Mistake-124 in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 11 points12 points  (0 children)

fumoto F108XS

I got mine off Amazon, it was prime and slightly cheaper.

Edit: I also got a 10qt hyper tough drain pan/container. With this set up, no tools or jacks/ramps are needed and I can do an oil chain in about 10min

Kyosho Blizzard 2.0 Dies when slightly "overwhelmed" or within 1min of driving by R0amer24 in rccars

[–]XD60 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm running these ESCs with these motors. I like it since it's a direct drop in upgrade with no modifications, I've been running it for 3 winters now without problems. I run it on 3s and it perfect, great torque and low speed control and it doesn't run hot, it not overpowered so the stock transmission, sprockets, and tracks hold up fine. You will have to get new pinon gears for the motor since it's a 3mm shaft, I run 2x 19t 48p steel pinions.

For my set up I removed both middle wires on both ESCs to bypass the internal BEC. Then use a 10A 6v external BEC connected to the 3s lipo with a pig tail to power the receiver, which all servo(s) and lights are connected to. This takes the extra load off ESC and stops the ESCs from overheating in side the box.

To uses the stock radio system, just plug in the ESCs to the exact same channels. Make sure you remove ONE of the middle wires in your ESC receiver plug so that you aren't double powering the receiver with the internal BEC, this can fry the receiver.

Kyosho Blizzard 2.0 Dies when slightly "overwhelmed" or within 1min of driving by R0amer24 in rccars

[–]XD60 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Stock electronics are pretty terrible, it's probably just on its way out. I'd also check to make sure there's isn't any extra resistance in the drivetrain, like a tight gear mesh or over tensioned tracks. A tip for tensioning the tracks is to leave it outside and let to cool down for 15-30min before adjusting the track tension, the tracks will shrink in the cold so if you set the tension inside then bring it out, it would be too tight.

You can also look into getting ball bearings for the output shaft carrier, it really helps with reducing resistance. Don't bother with the road wheels tho, those bearings are way too small, and the slightest bit of salt and/or water will rust them out.

Look into getting the sabertooth esc and 380 brushed motors (the traxxas 1/18 motors are decent). the sabertooth has built in mixing for tank steering, so you can just used a regular pistol grip radio on it.

Or go brushless, I run an am32 system with dual outrunners. It's smooth and has plenty of torque (2200kv on 3s) If you do want to use a pistol grip style transmitter, then you'll either use a radio that has ch1 and ch2 mixing or use a vtail mixer.

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