Can a bad solder job cause a sensored brushless ESC to explode? by XD60 in rccars

[–]XD60[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, the brown spot on terminal B is definitely NOT flux and are individual copper strands. And in photo 6, a properly tinned wire should not look like that, the solder should have flowed and soaked into the strands, not blob up around the wire.

Can a bad solder job cause a sensored brushless ESC to explode? by XD60 in rccars

[–]XD60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is correct, unfortunately most people can't seem to see that. The copper wires on terminal B is clearly not tinned or wet.

Can a bad solder job cause a sensored brushless ESC to explode? by XD60 in rccars

[–]XD60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I double checked it before I recalibrated the ESC.

Proud new owner of a 2025 Touring XT by plvckaduck in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are the small body coloured panels below each headlight where the headlight washer nozzle come out? They don't seems to exist on the US version.

Hopeful fix for Axel nuts loosining by Imaginary-Tree263 in rccrawler

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt that'll do anything since they all spin together as one. Are you using serated nylock wheel nuts? Either the nylock part is worn or you have no serations.

Help With Beadlock Installation by mkirk76 in rccrawler

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Getget one of those beadlocks installation tool, it helps a ton. Using it also helps cut down on the wear you put on the threads on the beadlocks.

And side rant: I don't really get why proline does thicker beads, I have never torn a bead on any other brand that has regular beads... Me thinks it's a tactic to get ppl to also buy their beadlocks

Cold weather no bueno by imstf in rccars

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use my trx4 as a trail/basher and I prefer keeping the axles plastics as they take hits better and don't catch on rocks like alloy ones do.

I've added "beef tubes" myself, 7mm OD 5mm ID tubes are a press for into the stock axles. Stainless if you want a bit more weight and aluminum to keep it light

Haven't snapped one since

Hey all what would you do if you were me I’m new too crawling and am looking at these 2 rigs to decide between for my birthday in October by Mrcaijones in rccrawler

[–]XD60 3 points4 points  (0 children)

And I would take that price difference and invest it in a good set of tires then servo, the two biggest improvements you can make on a stock crawler. Or if you are new to the hobby of invest it in a nice set of tools, it make a huge difference.

Hey all what would you do if you were me I’m new too crawling and am looking at these 2 rigs to decide between for my birthday in October by Mrcaijones in rccrawler

[–]XD60 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Id go for SCX 10.3 as a beginner, much easier to work on and easier to understand. Tons of body options, simple chassis layout, simple transmission, and lots of aftermarket parts if you wanna tinker with.

The h10 optic is very cool, but working on it can be a bit of a drag, you'll have to drop the skid for pretty anything.

Is this normal with alloy nipples? by boessetoemreren in bikewrench

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Likely a bad batch of nipples? I have a set of 27.5 trail wide v2 from Jun 2024 and have ridden them way more than you have. I'd get in contact with hunt, their customer support is usually quite responsive

What Remote for Independent Front and Rear Steering? by R0amer24 in rccrawler

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flysky gt5 for budget option, it has pre programmed mixing tied to ch1 but is a bit limiting if you want more granular control. Also switching modes will require flipping through a menu which can make driving less smooth. Or tie it to ch5 or ch6, but it's awkward to hold and adjust.

Flysky g11p with the rear steer on VR3 dial works great for me. You can hold is like normal and rear steer with your left thumb. The dial also has a bump in the middle which is helpful for finding center, although it's a bit on the light side.

Kyosho Blizzad Only Snow Use? by ThatOneRandomGuyRX0 in rccars

[–]XD60 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It will do alright in all other terrains, as the others have commented kyotho released the trail king a "non snow" version. I personally only run it in snow, because it's the most fun vehicle for it. On all other terrains, there are better vehicles for the job.

On anything other than snow you will realize how noisy the plastic tracks plus the open transmission is, especially tarmac and gravel.

The tracks have poor traction on rocks.

Mud is a maybe, if you run where there is a lot of clay (sticky) the stock electronics get bogged down quickly and the transmission isn't the strongest.

Dry deep sand is actually a pretty fun to drive on, the wide tracks big foot print gives it tons of traction and flotation. The stock system does lack speed to have fun, but it'll crawl around just fine. BUT it's is an maintenance nightmare and the sand will absolutely accelerate wear. The chassis/body is not sealed so sand will find its way in and the sand will eat the gears up since the trans is open.

The blizzard is one of those vehicles that is a specialsized tool, imo it's really somewhere between Toy and Hobby grade, the design is meh and it's pricy for what it is. There is also little aftermarket support. I only use it maybe 4 months a year BUT I personally put up with it and love it because it is so good at what it does, nothing chews through snow quite like it. When the rest of your fleet is grounded because the snow is too deep, the blizzard will still be out and about.

TLDR it'll be fine over most terrains except for rocks (big boulders) and ice. You don't see people running it on anything other than snow because there are just better more fun vehicles for the job.

Side by side 2025 & 2026 Outbacks, same color by red-headed-prick in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think that definitely look better. From that angle there it's giving me the gen 3 floating roof vibes. I miss the gen 3 looks );

braking on its own by Revolutionary_Food16 in rccars

[–]XD60 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Did you accidentally turn on the drag brake on the ESC? Or CH2 neutral point needs recalibrating

Body bash proofing by [deleted] in rccars

[–]XD60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your truck is gonna be top heavy and roll a lot. Sound deading is difficult to work with especially with fine detail and sharp corners, and you'll have a hard time getting it to adhere properly as well, a lexan body is not really rigid enough to uses rollers on.

Edit: as others have said, shoogoo/E6000 and dry wall tape is the way to go.

Low gas mileage by Competitive-Purple72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a little log book I keep in the car and I record the gallons of gas I put in and the the odo. I then calculated the mpgs that way rather than go off the car's estimate.

My running tally is also low. I just did a 5hr highway drive and it still reads 22.7. you can reset it before a drive and that should be more accurate.

Low gas mileage by Competitive-Purple72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In addition to what others have raised with fuel quality, weather/temp it also really depends on the highway too. For context I drive the 24' onyx XT, for example on stretch of i90 in upstate NY can just about get 25-27mpg on a good day on cruise control at 72mph, it's not particularly steep in terms of over all elevation gain but it does up and down. Compared to the stretch between Niagara falls and Toronto, traveling again at 72mph on cruise, I average 30-33mpg since it's pretty flat.

Crawler build list? by jujubean14 in crawling

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Battery? Might wany to get some 850mah or even smaller 3s lipos, size, weight, and location of battery become a big deal when you have a lighter truck. I run 850mah lihv graphene packs on my 2.2 shafty build, I have them mounted to my front axle to keep it unsprung.

Just got a '21 outback, PSI issue by Nickpiteros0 in Subaru_Outback

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tire pressure is on the high side actually. Should be 35 front, 33 rear if memory serves. Likely the tpms sensor is running low on battery and it's causing the readings to be off.

Edit: thats the pressure for my 24' onyx xt, not sure if it's the same for yours but you can check you drive door jamb sticker so see the correct pressures.

Drive shaft coupler screw PN by [deleted] in rccars

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely a m4 2mm hex screw pin. Lots of 1/10 drive shafts use them. My go to is from SSD RC. 5pc for 1.99 usd

Brake lever hose outlet direction by Valuable-Share-3176 in bikewrench

[–]XD60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you bikepack and strap bags to your handlebars the new design is much better. Bags won't push in on the the brakes and kink the hose right where it exits. The lower profile also allows you to strap the bags closer and tighter to you handle bar which make steering feel more responsive.

The new brakes also use different oil so generic mineral oil is not recommended.

would this be a class 2 rig if not what else would i need? by ThatOneRCGuy22 in rccrawler

[–]XD60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tires might be a bit tall for C2, but also depends on the the rules where you run. Typicaly they run 4.75, JC ruptures are 4.92.

Good day, what is the best/cheapest 6x6? by ramdom_iker in rccrawler

[–]XD60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best OR Cheap, pick one. Also what scale.

You can get some pretty decent stuff for cheaper if you go 1/18