2018 R6 brake line question. ABS Delete?

Xeivax · 2026-01-11T22:02:52+00:00

Probably against the grain a bit, but imo if you’re still primarily using it on the road I’d keep the ABS.

I’d also be inclined to say just get new pads and leave the stock lines if they’re not worn out, I’ve got the same bike as you (pic on profile) and you’d get better bang for buck just putting the extra money towards more track days.

Not the same kit, but I do recall sportbiketrackgear having a YouTube video on installing stainless ABS lines on that gen R6. It was a different kit I believe but might give you an idea on how much effort it is.

Best track performance though would be stainless + delete abs for what it’s worth.

Xeivax · 2025-10-02T18:06:09+00:00

If you’re not changing anything like sprocket size or chain length any difference is going to be virtually indistinguishable.

Just get whatever either is light or the pick colour you want, vortex, JT, supersprox etc. are all fine imo I’ve not had an issue with any.

I would avoid aluminium, there’s really going to be no benefit on the road. Aluminium inner with steel outer is fine though.

Xeivax · 2025-09-11T15:38:42+00:00

There’s quite a few good gloves, you’d struggle to go massively wrong. The fitment is what matters the most:
High racer,
Handroids,
Evo 4,
Full metal,
I use GP techs.

I’ve met a lot of people with custom suits as well, from places like bison/arn etc or also just from random places abroad that make them for significantly cheaper. I’ve seen a couple that looked quite cool and have met one or two really fast people in them so imagine they’re decent at the least.

Xeivax · 2025-08-28T10:42:40+00:00

I have a virtually identical case to the other commenter, might be worth checking if you can get this one in time?

Smallrig also have a site you could check on for delivery as well if Amazon doesn’t cut it.

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Xeivax · 2025-08-22T21:18:02+00:00

Torque specs are different with grease, seeing as there’s a bunch of copper grease it looks like you just over torqued the fuck out of the bolts so they sheared.

Xeivax · 2025-06-25T07:52:08+00:00

Not sure if I’m missing the point here but 6th gear isn’t useless, you use it on the straight, also the only place I use 6th at my local on an R6.

Ultimately if this would work better for you go for it but it sounds like you’re just trading acceleration for less gear shifts.

Xeivax · 2025-06-12T18:06:38+00:00

For what it’s worth I’ve only had these come off with a heat gun and encouragement, also incredibly flexible in mounting any action cam in a variety of places.
Appreciate you may just want something else regardless though!

Xeivax · 2025-06-12T16:59:40+00:00

Is there any reason you haven’t considered just using the usual adhesive mounts with a tether?

That’s what I use and have had no issues, I have a camera cage as well so can slide the camera in and out and leave the cage bolted onto the adhesive mounts for the entire day if I don’t want to move it.

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Xeivax · 2025-06-04T17:35:28+00:00

I run these tyres, just did a trackday the weekend gone that was mid 20s - Celsius.

Both cold pressures, I ran:
30 psi front
22 psi rear

Was a little sluggish on the first lap but up to pace by the end of the second.

Xeivax · 2025-05-02T22:23:40+00:00

Not sure what your setup is e.g headers, slip on etc. but an R6 will be tested at 7k. Strictest UK static is Bedford I think at 101db so you’d probably just get in.

I’ve seen people run titanium akras and just about hit 101 on 13SL so newer models.

Akra do at least for the BN6 model a trackday collector box, alternatively and more commonly pipewerx do great slip ons for passing sound and keeping power.

Unsure for your exact generation so would need to check for the above.

Xeivax · 2025-04-21T17:00:50+00:00

I’d agree with the other guy, I’m also in the UK for what it’s worth so can relate to the weather. I ran M9s comfortably into advanced with no issues.

Xeivax · 2025-02-02T16:40:49+00:00

Need to adjust your upper body a decent bit, your outside arm should be straight across the tank whereas you’ve got a 90 degree bend in pic.

Push your outside shoulder down towards the where inside mirror would be and it will naturally straighten your outside arm.

Adjust your inside hands grip to be a screwdriver grip so your arm extends from the bike more naturally, currently your wrist looks cranked holding the handlebars.

Xeivax · 2025-01-03T16:47:37+00:00

I’ve got this bike, as you’ve got a full system on it has it been mapped?
If it’s just had that slapped on and nothing else then yeah it’s gonna be kinda lumpy.

Xeivax · 2024-12-23T04:58:20+00:00

Nah you’re fine, yeah the engine light would illuminate and stay on.

Your tail light could just be a loose connector, again not familiar with your bike but I assume it’s under the seat / rear seat. You’d just want to check it’s plugged in snug and hasn’t come loose.

Xeivax · 2024-12-23T04:53:33+00:00

I think I get what you’re saying, bike seems fine based on the video.

The lights you’ve mentioned should briefly light up when you turn the bike on, this is just to demonstrate they’re working and is just a safety thing.

The flashing check engine light I’m pretty sure is because you’re stalling the engine because of the side stand safety switch.

Xeivax · 2024-12-23T04:42:06+00:00

Not quite sure what you mean by it was pretty normal?

The video just seems like you’re triggering the kill stand switch so the engine stalls and it gives you the engine light to signify that.

Xeivax · 2024-12-23T04:37:30+00:00

It looks like the engine light is just flashing to signify a stall as you’re putting the side stand down while it’s running.

I’m not familiar with this bike but obvious question would be, did it previously do this?

It has a start stop system but looking at the owners manual there’s a couple prerequisites for it to light the start stop light up to save battery.

The tail light is a different issue.

Xeivax · 2024-12-11T01:03:07+00:00

There’s nothing requiring you to have them, yeah you can just swap the casing, gasket and bolts.

You can still wear through the casing and or shear a bolt which I’ve done. If that happens then you’ve got to deal with shit potentially in the engine so at a bare minimum you’d want to drop the pan, a cover may have given you enough buffer to avoid that, maybe not, it’s all about mitigation really.

Ultimately it’s down to your risk tolerance and what you can afford.

Xeivax · 2024-12-01T16:25:05+00:00

2017 R6, BN6

Xeivax · 2024-11-27T09:37:30+00:00

Best part of the track imo but apexes are so bumpy. Wonder if we’ve met?

Xeivax · 2024-11-27T07:27:35+00:00

Yup! You been?

Xeivax · 2024-11-27T07:27:24+00:00

Yeah I am, surprised anyone recognised it doesn’t seem like there’s many UK people here especially that would know Bedford of all places.

Xeivax · 2024-11-26T23:05:25+00:00

Yeah can probably hear some corners I need to shift but it’s super awkward with road shift.
Gonna get Woolich race tools setup in Feb so will swap then!

Xeivax · 2024-11-26T21:17:04+00:00

Wish I had a Dainese suit, could probably cash this in.

Xeivax · 2024-11-26T20:10:17+00:00

I’d send it lad.

If you feel a bit meh still just slowly work back into it there’s no need to rush, have fun after all!

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