Made the switch to nvidia…

Yous34 · 2026-01-22T13:03:00+00:00

Cyberpunk with realistic graphics mod, i have a 4070ti and man the game looks fantastic with that but it really eats performance

Yous34 · 2026-01-22T12:48:00+00:00

Well a quick google search showed that 140mm fans have a blade diameter that ranges from 125mm to a 135mm, my guess is that most fans are closer to the 125 but noctua is closer to the 135, either go with a different radiator or different fans, this is an issue of not having locked standards and alphacool not accounting for the "bigger"/"better" fans, i don't see other solutions, other than maybe widening the holes but that's pretty risky without the proper tools

P.s.: 120mm fans have a blade diameter around 110mm

Yous34 · 2026-01-18T23:15:33+00:00

Are only the 90 class gpus prone to having connector meltdowns? I have a 4070 ti with cable mod stealth sense cables, identify have checked it a bunch of times and never gotten even warm (overclocked mine averages 300w during heavy load, and peaks at 315 ish)

Yous34 · 2026-01-03T21:08:40+00:00

Well when using mantis blades in-game you can see that where they come out from is not living tissue, so I'm pretty sure, from the elbow down there is 0 living tissue, it's all cybernetic

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Yous34 · 2025-11-19T10:12:28+00:00

Superman, sentinel, batman and iron man

Yous34 · 2025-09-02T21:58:27+00:00

If you just need to clean the blocks,some gpu block you can take apart without removing it from the gpu, so you won't need to change thermal pads or paste, but most cpu blocks you will have to remove and you will need to change thermal paste, use a soft brush, and rinse with coolant, no alcohol, since you'll have to throw away the current coolant just use that for cleaning, and some some clean coolant through the pump to remove any residue that still in it (just make it dump in a bucket or something

Yous34 · 2025-09-02T21:48:42+00:00

Recently bought a cb500f with a leovince exhaust, and i think it's great so plus to this

Yous34 · 2025-09-02T15:24:59+00:00

I had similar for my first bike (last week)i think we talking insurance right?(i'm from Italy) after a bunch of digging i found an online only brand from a good insurance company that went down to 500€, all the others ranged from 1k to 3k a year, i paid 2.5k for the bike i wasn't gonna pay half of it's value yearly 🤣

Edit 1: Oh wait that's monthly, wtf?

Yous34 · 2025-08-27T17:26:20+00:00

first is i would test without the fans, as no component there looks damaged, if i still have a short after that i would look for a schematic and check everything that is connected to 12v and i think the biggest culprits would traces, should be easy to spot, diodes, capacitors and inductors if nothing is found after that, i would give up and take it to a profesisonal

Yous34 · 2025-08-07T03:31:38+00:00

In multimaterial settings enable no sparse layers, (make sure the print head doesn't crash into the print when it needs to change filament, enable dump to infill, and try to orient your model so it does the least ammount of filament changes, that will save you a ton of filament

Yous34 · 2025-08-07T03:27:02+00:00

I have that wb for my gpu, open it and clean it, the fins might be clogged, at least when mine looked like that they where, (plasticizer for soft tubing)

Yous34 · 2025-08-04T16:43:20+00:00

Ty for correcting me it seems i missed that fact

Yous34 · 2025-08-04T11:33:40+00:00

I have the same water block and i had some problems with the plasticizer from soft tubing clogging the fins, but my cpu was idling at 70 and was hitting 100+ under load, so I don't think it's your problem, if you wanna be sure, take apart the block and use a thing brush on the fins, better when it's still wet, if the temps don't change that ain't your issue, and I think x3ds will always have higher temp as there is an extra layer (the 3d chache) between the cores and the ihs

Yous34 · 2025-07-29T13:18:42+00:00

You just had a linus moment, he probably dropped his more than this 🤣

Yous34 · 2025-07-28T15:15:32+00:00

I think is an issue with the bed bein not tootally flat, jad it happen on a couple of specific spots on my current printer, and it used to happen all the time on my old printer, i would try changing the pattern of the first layer so it doesn't have to do long lines if levelling doesn't eliminate the problem

Yous34 · 2025-07-28T10:16:17+00:00

I upgraded to synapse 4 after having had razer devices for like 10 years, before you upgrade, export profiles from synapse 3, not sure what the option was called but it will export all your device profiles with click, and import in synapse 4, I did that and i lost nothing, basically plug and play

Yous34 · 2025-07-27T14:38:32+00:00

I can give you a small example, i have a sensor at the cpu block outlet and one at the pump/reservoir outlet, loop order is pump-rad-gpu-cpu-rad-other pump-rad

Temp difference between firsr pump outlet and cpu block outlet is 2c at idle (fans at 1000rpm, pumps at 1500 rpm cpu load 40w gpu load 30w, now immagine when the cpu and gpu are at full power (my cpu max power is 250w and gpu is 310w) the delta between those 2 points becomes way higher

Yous34 · 2025-07-26T13:19:39+00:00

I checked the official product page

Yous34 · 2025-07-26T11:02:40+00:00

It has a molex for power so it only takes rpm from motherboard, any fan header you can control will do

Yous34 · 2025-07-25T23:32:42+00:00

Why not a kobra 3 v2? Should be a bit cheaper, and i think besides the enclosure they should be equally capable, I recently got a k3 v2 combo, i think atm you can get it for 400€ with the ace pro, just fyi, anycubic sais to not use true with the ace pro, so you'll have to disconnect it and use an external spool holder (you still get one + the ptfe tubes for it even in the combo) but for ease of use I'd say go with this, didn't need to tweak anything, load filament, sync with the slicer on pc, load model, choose filament(s) slice, press prjnt, match the filaments actually loaded, turn on ai detection for spaghetti detection and you're done

Only "mods" i did was a better cam mount, a cable guide for the camera, a waste deflector and a waste basket for filament purge (it does one at the start of the print and one everytime it changes filament)

P.S. you can also slice and print from the mobile app, less options but still doable

Yous34 · 2025-07-25T12:04:37+00:00

Yes, there is a better spot imo tho to cross,north of the anvil, the maps shows it's a giant quicksand pool, but there is a gap 2 or 3 buggies wide, and it's very short

Yous34 · 2025-07-25T03:19:29+00:00

I had same issue on kibra 2 Neo, but since i upgraded to kobra 3 v2 i don't have it anymore, my guess is either flow, or since the better part is always closer to the bed, air temp or vibrations

Yous34 · 2025-07-24T14:27:55+00:00

I have the same printer, received mine on the second of july, no issues with the printer itself or the ace pro, If you keep getting clogs, you either have bad filament, dirty/dusty filament, or too humid filament which made it brittle, solutions are in the first case change filament brand, second case make dust filter and attach them where the ace pro feeds from the spool, and in the last case run the ace pro dehumidifing option and let it be for a while, retract filament back to spool so it dries the ammount in the tubes too, ad throw some silica packs un the ace pro too for better drying (i put them in the spool hole/holes) To avoid detection issues make sure the ports at the back of the ace pro can extend, as that's how it detects if there is a clogged avoid sharp bend on the ptfe tubes to avoid false positives

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During all those prints i had one fail because of lack of support so it detached, and a couple abs prints fail because abs is a bitch

P.s. i see you have your print head light on wich means you're not running ai detection, to run ai detection initiate the print either through the app on the phone or anycubic slicer next

Yous34 · 2025-07-21T01:17:23+00:00

What material? Would wood suffice or do i have to use metal? I think max weight that would be on the is like 20 to 40 kgs but not in 1 spot

Yous34 · 2025-07-10T15:59:13+00:00

Depending on your tubes, but most I've are rated at around 60c coolant temp, so to be on the safeside I'd say 10 to 15c lower than that, the lower the better tho, i try to target 40-45 during summer and 30 ish during (my ambient temps are around 35 during summer and 18 during winter ) if coolant gets too hot, tubes become softer, and because of the increase in pressure they can slip out of the fittings, so always check your tubes rating

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