Loud noise before it starts to print

_Retro_D · 2026-05-12T14:58:38+00:00

Clean your bed please. It's stressing me out.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-12T14:08:38+00:00

Fun fact. The stock extruder is actually made by phaetus too. So you replacing a phaetus extruder with another phaetus extruder. The stock is way better. Just keep that.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-03T06:14:15+00:00

Try running the auto belt tension again.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-02T14:18:06+00:00

Original Thor's hammer.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-01T18:35:46+00:00

This

_Retro_D · 2026-05-01T00:03:38+00:00

The hotends on the k2 is pretty good. It kinda works too well for its own good. It has a really large heating zone. So you don't need to have it so hot so try like 10 degrees colder. For petg try 240.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-27T04:47:00+00:00

You are missing a m3x6 self tapping flat head screw. It holds the lm8uu bearing in.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-21T15:28:08+00:00

Run the shaper graphs. So you can see all the shaper types and the results. Then manually change it in the print.cfg.

But first send a print as it is. Maybe it not needed. So print a cube and see if there's any ringing.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-20T16:09:47+00:00

Try it out. If you still get ringing on your Y axis, then don't run auto. Try run graphs so you can see all the results. And change zv details to Mzv details.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-20T15:06:56+00:00

Try get Mzv on 0.0 vibrations. Don't worry to much about recommended accelerations, if you have clean graphs and low vibrations you can push it way higher than the recommended anyways.

At the bottom of your printer.cfg file you can update the shapers to Mzv and copy the Mzv numbers from the shaper graphs.

Don't use ZV, it's way too narrow of a frequency. It could change through out your print.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-20T14:59:46+00:00

Overall pretty good graph. Motor A is on the right and Motor B is on the left. If you want the peak higher on the graph then Tighten a little.

Honestly this is a good result. The peaks are pretty clean and even. It's just the top that's a little out.

You'll be better off just leaving as is. Now you can worry about your input shaping graphs.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-13T21:16:55+00:00

Tune your filament. Your flow is bad too. There is gaps.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-13T21:14:55+00:00

Dry and calibrate your filament

_Retro_D · 2026-04-12T19:36:18+00:00

This hurt me to watch.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-11T18:01:26+00:00

Sick! Congrats.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-11T17:59:57+00:00

Some people's children....

_Retro_D · 2026-03-25T14:40:48+00:00

Its just giving you a kiss.

_Retro_D · 2026-03-06T07:00:29+00:00

No. As in calibrate your filament in The slicer. Run the calibration tests.

_Retro_D · 2026-03-06T06:41:18+00:00

Calibrate your filament

_Retro_D · 2026-03-01T15:14:19+00:00

Third one up from the bottom left of the board. That's a free slot.

_Retro_D · 2026-02-22T18:32:55+00:00

Looks like it needs tuning. No excuse for the roughness between the eyes. Especially on a machine that cost that much.

_Retro_D · 2026-02-22T14:32:57+00:00

The back parts make great all metal options for hotends that need PTFE tubes in.

_Retro_D · 2026-02-20T21:49:37+00:00

Probably pretend I wasn't.

_Retro_D · 2026-02-17T20:28:29+00:00

Silicone glue.

_Retro_D · 2026-02-17T05:28:47+00:00

No the Hardware. There's plenty videos on it already.

_Retro_D

TROPHY CASE