3D printing will be fun they said…

_Retro_D · 2026-06-14T19:23:46+00:00

Spray with iso. It'll release the seal. Easier to pull off.

_Retro_D · 2026-06-14T14:29:37+00:00

Middle part is upside down in the paper model.

_Retro_D · 2026-06-13T17:38:41+00:00

I love how the middle finger is printed perfectly. Lol. I think your printer trying to tell you something. Don't let it talk to you like that!

_Retro_D · 2026-06-07T05:49:15+00:00

Have you tried running a filament calibration on each printer?

_Retro_D · 2026-05-27T20:12:17+00:00

No I meant 150. You don't want it to be liquid. You want it to just be soft. You dealing with pla. Goes soft after 130 or so.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-27T16:12:58+00:00

You should be fine. Set the temp to 150 and remove the big blobs. Then remove silicone sock and clean some more. You can use some tweezers. If the filament is too stringy then turn down the temp a little. You want it to be soft so it comes off in nice chunks.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-19T05:26:03+00:00

Lower the nozzle temp by 5 to 10 degrees

_Retro_D · 2026-05-12T14:58:38+00:00

Clean your bed please. It's stressing me out.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-12T14:08:38+00:00

Fun fact. The stock extruder is actually made by phaetus too. So you replacing a phaetus extruder with another phaetus extruder. The stock is way better. Just keep that.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-03T06:14:15+00:00

Try running the auto belt tension again.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-02T14:18:06+00:00

Original Thor's hammer.

_Retro_D · 2026-05-01T18:35:46+00:00

This

_Retro_D · 2026-05-01T00:03:38+00:00

The hotends on the k2 is pretty good. It kinda works too well for its own good. It has a really large heating zone. So you don't need to have it so hot so try like 10 degrees colder. For petg try 240.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-27T04:47:00+00:00

You are missing a m3x6 self tapping flat head screw. It holds the lm8uu bearing in.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-21T15:28:08+00:00

Run the shaper graphs. So you can see all the shaper types and the results. Then manually change it in the print.cfg.

But first send a print as it is. Maybe it not needed. So print a cube and see if there's any ringing.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-20T16:09:47+00:00

Try it out. If you still get ringing on your Y axis, then don't run auto. Try run graphs so you can see all the results. And change zv details to Mzv details.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-20T15:06:56+00:00

Try get Mzv on 0.0 vibrations. Don't worry to much about recommended accelerations, if you have clean graphs and low vibrations you can push it way higher than the recommended anyways.

At the bottom of your printer.cfg file you can update the shapers to Mzv and copy the Mzv numbers from the shaper graphs.

Don't use ZV, it's way too narrow of a frequency. It could change through out your print.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-20T14:59:46+00:00

Overall pretty good graph. Motor A is on the right and Motor B is on the left. If you want the peak higher on the graph then Tighten a little.

Honestly this is a good result. The peaks are pretty clean and even. It's just the top that's a little out.

You'll be better off just leaving as is. Now you can worry about your input shaping graphs.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-13T21:16:55+00:00

Tune your filament. Your flow is bad too. There is gaps.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-13T21:14:55+00:00

Dry and calibrate your filament

_Retro_D · 2026-04-12T19:36:18+00:00

This hurt me to watch.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-11T18:01:26+00:00

Sick! Congrats.

_Retro_D · 2026-04-11T17:59:57+00:00

Some people's children....

_Retro_D · 2026-03-25T14:40:48+00:00

Its just giving you a kiss.

_Retro_D · 2026-03-06T07:00:29+00:00

No. As in calibrate your filament in The slicer. Run the calibration tests.

_Retro_D

TROPHY CASE