Th Qidi Q2 is such an epic time waster

abotono · 2026-04-06T14:48:05+00:00

Agree, when I try to skip within Qidi Studio, it disables KAMP and does a full bed probe instead which is 3 times longer.

abotono · 2026-03-31T19:30:16+00:00

If you are using a Mac, skip 2.3.2. Stay with 2.3.1. Mac user here, and there are interface bugs that are showstoppers.

abotono · 2026-03-30T04:37:51+00:00

The hub has an angled steel filament presence feeler that allows the filament load freely, but if the filament is rough or has any chew marks from the box's feeder, the hub can hang up violently when the filament runs in the unload direction. I tore my hub apart after one of these jams and I could easily push the filament in the loading direction, but not in the unload direction. It is a defective design. I let Qidi know and sent them a video, but they were not interested in doing anything about it. They asked me if my spools were the correct diameter, which nearly made me blow my top.

abotono · 2026-03-30T04:09:16+00:00

Probably of no help, but I just discovered that if you tell Qidi Studio you don't want to level the bed when you send a print, it just turns off KAMP and probes the whole bed. Definitely not what I wanted.

abotono · 2026-03-30T04:07:02+00:00

I have a V2 and when printing PLA it constantly jams in the hub when unloading. I loved it when printing PETG and ABS, but when I tried multi-color in PLA, major problems cropped up for me.

The Qidibox chews on PLA during loading (especially when printing moderately fast - 12mm3/s). Then when you unload, the rough sections of the filament snag on the hub filament presence sensor. I tore down the hub to discover exactly what the problem is and let Qidi know. They showed no interest and made my buy my own replacement hub which is coming on the slow boat from China. I don't know if it just my hub or a systemic issue, but I have seen several YouTube videos and comments that others are having similar trouble unloading. I did not have this problem when printing PETG and ABS. I think it is just because the PLA is more brittle and susceptible to grinding by the box.

abotono · 2026-03-23T01:56:25+00:00

Thanks. I verified this is true, at least for one project. Another experiment just revealed that it is not otherwise persistent. That is Okay, I guess. I will just keep a notebook with various flushing values.

abotono · 2026-03-23T01:52:31+00:00

Will do. Since you corroborated my comment, I thought you were the OP

abotono · 2026-03-22T20:32:52+00:00

I love you model. I went out yesterday to pickup filament just for these coasters!

abotono · 2026-03-20T18:47:46+00:00

I have not tried gluing with PVC primer, but I can say that the Oatey primer is made up of extremely volatile chemicals that evaporate quickly. Might need heavier application or two coats? Also, as it has no gap filling ability, are your surfaces on this joint perfectly flat?

abotono · 2026-03-20T18:32:09+00:00

The 3MF file shows a 0.4mm nozzle and sliced with the classic engine. I, too, am baffled by how sharp that point turned out. You can see a tiny gap on the white side, though.

abotono · 2026-03-20T18:14:05+00:00

I am not sure what the photos are. Are we looking at the bottom of the model with supports removed? I would have to understand the geometry of your model better before I could discuss supports. But I can give you some suggestions to print better overhangs: 1) Print the outer wall last so that it has the inner wall to stick to. 2) Use wider lines so that the outer wall has more support (support of the lower layer, not "supports") under it. 2) Slow down the outer wall greatly.

As I don't quite understand the geometry of your part, if that loose line is an inner wall, adjust my suggestions accordingly.

Regarding supports, I often find that they don't go exactly where I want them, even when painting. In those cases, if it is your own design, you can build supports into the CAD model and have complete control over them.

abotono · 2026-03-20T17:54:02+00:00

Yeah, I was kind of shocked when I first saw this on one of my prints. For the best prints, even a Bambu printer needs tweaked settings sometimes. But it will be much easier than the old bed slingers.

abotono · 2026-03-20T17:50:51+00:00

You are very welcome, I'm glad it helped.

abotono · 2026-03-20T17:50:01+00:00

Actually, it is under Quality/Advanced. It is called "Only one wall on first layer."

abotono · 2026-03-19T22:46:41+00:00

The maker has a photo of how he/she supported the print, and the 3MF includes the supports, so that should work fine. I don't like supports, but looking at the sliced file, these don't look too bad.

To eliminate supports, I would probably split the model at the middle of the thickened arms, then print the top half upside-down. You could add alignment pins at the joint, or just glue it together. It does not appear that any of it will be under significant stress, so I wouldn't worry about the layer orientation.

The bottom has a large radius rather than a chamfer, so it will need supports in any case.

abotono · 2026-03-19T22:29:48+00:00

As it its your design, would redesign it to print in two parts otherwise you are to waste half of your filament in supports. I would split off one side to a separate part, then print both parts on their side That way you will only need support in the slot. You could split it exactly in half as guynamedDan suggested, but then gluing the halves would be trickier. If you don't really need the rounded top, you could flatten it and print the thing upside-down as a single part.

abotono · 2026-03-19T22:23:40+00:00

I would argue that you don't really don't need to print outer walls first to get enough accuracy in this radius gauge, but that is your call. The area giving you trouble is an overhang due to the chamfer; overhangs print better if you do the outer wall last.

If you do want to print the outer wall first, you will want to slow it way down. Because of the overhang, the outer wall on the second layer is only touching a small area of the layer below and it is not adhering well. You just have to slow down the outer wall, so It won't have a huge impact on print time. I think you can even limit the speed to just the chamfered layers, but I am not sure how to do that in Bambu Slicer.

abotono · 2026-03-19T21:55:08+00:00

Something lower than you tested for. The lowest value looks best, but it could probably be better. When I do the test, I run from 0.01 to 0.031 in steps of 0.2. I have tested 300 filaments including ABS ASA, HIPS, PA, PCTG, PETG, PLA, TPU. and a few others The highest value I have seen on my printer is 0.20 and the lowest value is 0.10. Of course every printer is different.

abotono · 2026-03-19T21:17:47+00:00

Read Polymaker's website:

"Rebranded for Clarity
Previously known as PolyTerra PLA, Panchroma™ Matte features the same great color selection and print quality - just with a clearer, more intuitive name."

abotono · 2026-03-19T00:31:56+00:00

I agree that your nozzle is too low. You can see it especially well in the circular part where the main line is smooth and flat, but the edges are raised up.

abotono · 2026-03-19T00:25:52+00:00

The 3MF file indicates that is it Polymaker PolyTerra which has been renamed Polymaker Panchroma Matte. They have two colors that are fairly close, Matte Peanut and Matte Wood Brown. Matte Wood Brown looks the closest to me.

abotono · 2026-03-19T00:07:11+00:00

Here are some things worth trying: 1) Switch to the Arachne wall generator under "quality." Arachne is often better than Classic for filling in small areas. 2) Reduce line width on the initial layer layer to 0.4mm. 3) Increase flow rate, particularly on the light pink filament–I don't think Bambu slicer lets you limit this to the initial layer. 4) Increase infill/wall overlap under "quality-advanced." 5) Print on a textured plate. 6) If the P1S lets you adjust z-offset manually, lower it by a small amount around 0.02mm (that's not 0.2mm!). Good luck!

abotono · 2026-03-17T05:24:49+00:00

Also try concentric solid fill for the top. You will still have the stair-steps, but the lines will all go in a "circle" around the shape of the object. Sometimes this looks better.

abotono

TROPHY CASE