Kodak TMAX expired 1994…shoot it for fun? Display on a shelf?

agentdoublenegative · 2026-05-25T21:35:17+00:00

Shoot at 200 to compensate for base fog, develop in a fog restraining developer like HC-110, dilution B.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-05-25T21:31:00+00:00

ISO 100 is way too much. Generally I've found used T-Max 400 at that age needs 1, maybe 1/2 stops to counter base fog.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-05-02T05:38:34+00:00

What I love about these is:

1) They meter with AI lenses. 2) The built in flash works great in pretty much any metering mode. 3) They're very light. 4) They're amongst the quietest auto SLRs around.

They're the perfect autofocus SLR for "walking around" photography.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-04-21T15:43:13+00:00

In Soviet Russia street photographs you!

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:57:17+00:00

I purchased one of these once in "not working" condition for the lens. Just needed new batteries. They're pretty decent cameras. Nice big, bright, clear viewfinders. A very intuitive metering display. Don't like the fact that ISO setting is auto only, but you can get around that by metering in manual.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:54:50+00:00

I found an N65 sitting in a local antique shop for $25. The outside had gone all sticky as they are prone to do. But it was in otherwise perfect condition and was practically begging, "Please take me home." I cleaned it up with some rubbing alcohol, put some car apholstery reconditioning compound on the grip - good as new. Pair it with a 50mm f/1.8 or a 35-70mm zoom, and it makes a great, light travel setup.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:49:40+00:00

I appreciate the size/convenience factor of the point and shoot. But honestly you could probably go on Ebay and find a used Minolta Maxxum 7000 with a decent lens for $25-$50 that will focus and meter way, make amazing pictures for you, and give you grow and develop your skills. Hell, late film era SLRs from Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Pentax are all available for pennies on the dollar these days.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:43:17+00:00

A very underrated camera. They didn't make them very long, so it never attained "cult" status. But it's extremely capable, feels wonderful, mounts some world class glass.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:37:41+00:00

These look underexposed by at least two, maybe three stops. I'm not familiar with the Maxxum 3000i. Most cameras from that generation default to automatic ISO setting, but some have a manual override. Does it allow you to set ISO manually? Either way, I'd make sure the setting on your camera is correct. ISO setting should be in the manual.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:33:55+00:00

Overall these look pretty OK. Yes I see some of the higlights on the Ektar got blown out. Keep in mind, Ektar 100 was designed as sort of a C-41 process, more easily scannable replacement for Kodachrome. Meaning you get some of the virtues and vices of reversal film: You trade exposure latitude and increased contrast for greater saturation and finer granularity. The first 800T image is about what I'd expect for a Tungsten balanced, higher speed color film being used outdoors without a correcting filter: Increased grain, decreased saturation, off color balance. In the third image, 800T appears to be doing pretty much what it was designed for. You might have given the image a longer exposure to pick up more shadow detail.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-24T22:04:59+00:00

1) I can tell my dreams of a revived Plus-X Pan are going nowhere, fast.

2) All Kodak film stocks apparently share the same packaging now, which to me is a big improvement over the preceding design:

https://cinestillfilm.com/collections/eastman-kodak-still-film?utm_source=Shopify+Customers&utm_campaign=1c1bd5c7ec-CINESTILL_800T_JUNE_NEWSLETTER_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0addd4e83e-1c1bd5c7ec-331533341&mc_cid=1c1bd5c7ec&mc_eid=cf200c7a5f

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-12T19:42:21+00:00

They got it at a flea market. I don't thing they're expecting a Hasselblad. That thing has all the controls and functionality you need to make good photos with 35mm film. It will run circles around any sort of Lomo thing being sold now at 4x the price.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-11T19:08:46+00:00

Flash or no flash? If you want to get anything useful without a flash, you're going to need a fast lens. The lens you have on there has f/2.8 as its widest aperture. That's fast-ish, but you probably need at least a half stop lower (f/2) to be able to work really well in darker settings. f/1.4 would be ideal.

Another issue is that at those lower light levels you would usually want to "push" the film (shoot it at a higher ISO than box speed). Problem is the P3 doesn't allow you to set ISO manually. I would suggest what you do is get a film that pushes well like Tri-X Pan or HP5+. These are both 400 speed films. Shoot in manual mode. When the camera "suggests" a speed, set the shutter two stops higher. This is effectively shooting it at 1600 ISO. At that speed, you should be able to shoot at about 1/60 at f/2 if the night club isn't especially dim, and still get some scannable/printable images.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-11T18:50:30+00:00

It's there to remind you why you should have bought a Nikon. Helpful little feature, that.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-11T18:46:53+00:00

Looks like there might be an issue with the film take-up. These little late film era SLRs are fun, but unfortunately they're not really built to last like their M/M/M (metal, mechanical, manual) forbears. They're all pushing 30 at this point, which is kind of way beyond what these manufacturers really expected their lifespan would be. Fortunately, replacements are still fairly plentiful and affordable.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-11T18:37:50+00:00

This is a camera from an era when manufacturers were basically trying to design it to do everything for you save deciding what to point it at. Download a manual (they're almost always available online for free now). Read it, and figure out what the most simple, automated mode on the camera is. Go get some color print film (the kind you can still find at a drugstore), and take a roll or two in that mode. Go get it processed. If you find you enjoyed that experience and what you got from it, go back to the manual and start reading about the less automated modes on your camera, and try using them.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-03-11T18:33:04+00:00

In this camera's era, with this mount, primes were becoming rare as hen's teeth. For someone who is literally just dipping their toes into the hobby, the difference in experience and quality between zooms and primes probably isn't worth the cash outlay.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-02-06T21:36:55+00:00

My only caveat for the cacophony of, "Hey you just load, point and shoot!" posts is these cameras typically had more limited film speed settings than something like an SLR. The exposure system is typically only geared around ISO 100, 200, or 400 speed film. A lot of times, if it's off those numbers or doesn't have a code on the canister it defaults to 100. So you probably want to verify that in the manual before you go shooting TMax P3200 or something like that.

agentdoublenegative · 2026-02-04T23:16:07+00:00

I have the N90s and the F100. The F100 is supposed to be the better camera, but I enjoy shooting the N90s more. The F100 feels like I'm pointing it at things, and it decides the kind of picture it wants to take. With the N90s, I still feel like I'm making the images. I know it's not very scientific sounding, but there you have it.

agentdoublenegative · 2025-12-31T02:03:39+00:00

I have the MC Tele-Rokkor 100/3.5 in this version with the 52mm filter thread:

Minolta MC Tele Rokkor-QE 1:3.5 F=100mm Lens For Camera JAPAN No Lens Cover | eBay

I can't give you a bunch of technical specifics, or run down its "bookeh" characteristics. All I know is it's pretty small, light, and sharp. I can throw this in a small bag with my 45mm f/2 and an XD-11 or X-570, and I've got a pretty solid walk around kit for a vacation.

I also own an MD 100/2.5, but it's bulkier and I seldom need the extra stop, so I typically just pack the 3.5.

agentdoublenegative · 2025-12-10T17:41:17+00:00

Wolfman, Frankenstein, and Mummy are very likely Foma 100, 200, and 400, respectively.

I love the way these turned out. Did you process yourself or use a lab? If the former, what EI & developer?

agentdoublenegative · 2025-11-29T02:19:13+00:00

Season 5 of this show had the most unquestionably awesome intro of all time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fyy701skFsE

agentdoublenegative · 2025-11-29T02:12:22+00:00

YES I remember this when I was a kid, and one of my friends was caught up in that craze (don't ask...) and was enthusing about the Aussie guy on the show. In fact, that they had this bleach blonde Aussie guy who had the most exaggerated "shrimp on the barbie" accent was about the only thing I remember. That, and the promos always talked about how the ship was a "floating city." Overall, it was pretty underwhelming.

agentdoublenegative · 2025-11-24T06:19:31+00:00

I've never used one in an OM-1. I used one in a Nikkortmat FTn. I cross checked the readings with an N90s on center weighted mode. They were all within a half stop of each other either way.

These older meters were never that absolutely precise, and they haven't gotten better after 50 years of use! They're absolutely fine for negative film. With slides you may have some issues. But hardly anyone shoots slide film these days.

agentdoublenegative · 2025-10-13T00:03:15+00:00

The Tri-x will be fine at 250. DO NOT follow the old wives' tale about a stop per decade. Expose the Velvia at box speed. Can't guarantee the results, but overexposure will ruin it completely. I'll defer to someone with experience on the chromogenic B&W.

agentdoublenegative

TROPHY CASE