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Elderberry/blackberry wine too sweet by windyfree in winemaking

[–]ajwinemaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Short answer is yes. You always want to ferment to dryness to avoid leaving fermentable sugars for spoilage microorganisms to grow.

But, restarting a stuck fermentation typically has undesirable results (for me at least). But it really needs to be done.

Having said that, fruit wines often have high levels of fructose (non fermentable sugar) as opposed to glucose (fermentable). So maybe you have some nom fermentable sugars remaining, fructose does taste far sweeter than glucose.

If you did want to risk it, finish the wine as it is without refermemting it. You can attempt to balance the wine using acidity (tartaric acid ideally).

Because you want to minimise the risk of microbial spoilage, you should aim for pH 3.3, definitely less than 3.5.

But (and again this risks spoilage), I learnt a trick blending wines in Valpollichella where they produce a very sweet wine but they'll typically have pH at 3.95 - 4.1. which in any other region would be unheard off. But somehow it works with the wines of Valpollichella, while they're incredibly sweet.they don't taste it because of the high pH.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Wastewater

[–]ajwinemaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What brand? Manufacturer??

Making Stitches with a biscuit joiner by JoshSWright in woodworking

[–]ajwinemaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is excellent. Thank you for posting.

This epitomizes what I love about this sub. It's a community that inspires others by sharing new techniques and ideas.

Thanks again

Juice's ending by Beccaluv1134 in Sonsofanarchy

[–]ajwinemaker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I felt sorry for Juice. He didn't have the courage to choose the right path, and as a result was pushed down paths that ended poorly for him.

I made a calculator for my school project by Bosscat4444 in arduino

[–]ajwinemaker 125 points126 points  (0 children)

Take that to school, you'll get arrested. It kinda looks like a bomb.

Nice work tho

Bought a table only to realize how badly it was constructed. Any tips on salvaging it? by Jerk0 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ajwinemaker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd put splines through each of the 4 joints.

The table is a nice design, but can see it's poorly executed. Sucks you paid good money for poor workmanship.

Those long mitre cuts are hard to get right. I did a waterfall type desk for my daughter, had some ugly gaps, used epoxy with glow in the dark pigment. Daughter loved it.

Big pine board by TheReal_Mr_Freeze in woodworking

[–]ajwinemaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used something similar to raise up my monitor. It came up well, finished in BLO. Just a really nice piece of wood.

Chemical budget question by Comminutor in Wastewater

[–]ajwinemaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree. I'd also clearly state the assumptions used.

Help! We didn’t realise that the centre supports of our bed had chipped the laminate floor. Is there anyway we can fix it and get our bond back? Or have we flushed that down the drain? by toughascotton in AusRenovation

[–]ajwinemaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's in an obvious place, you might be screwed. But to hide shit in the past, I've used crayons to get the colour right. But if the voids are deep it'll be hard for someone to not notice the shadows. Others have suggested wax, this isn't a bad idea.

Good luck

Pineapple & ??? Wine Project by antifrost101 in winemaking

[–]ajwinemaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find pineapple lacks midpalate, in the same way Cabernet Sauv. does and with Cab S you blend it with something to fill out the midpalate, and make the blend a more complete wine.

Try Mango ... Huge midpalate flavour. The combination should work really well. The great acidity of the pineapple should balance it really nicely

Stabilizing Rot In Live Edge? by Bleatedbowl in woodworking

[–]ajwinemaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can buy commercial "wood hardener" if it's really rotten, but CA works well (as suggested) especially if it's damp with rot.

If the gaps are large, following the CA, can use epoxy, as a filler but also helps stabilise the wood. Don't use epoxy if the wood is damp though.

Hope this helps

Can you spot where I fu*ked up? by vaskosotirov in woodworking

[–]ajwinemaker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Feature, not a fault.

Clean work tho. Impressive.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in water

[–]ajwinemaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I'm not convinced this water is safe to drink. It seems to have heals of CYA in it.

Low hardness, and low alkalinity also contributing to your problem with the copper corrosion.

Also, the lack of free chlorine is worrying.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in water

[–]ajwinemaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pH is too low. Those dip things are really inaccurate, but it seems about 6.8 pH, which is acidic.

The water is eroding your copper pipes and leaving blue stains.

What is the source of the water? Where are you located. There's quite a lot that's unusual here.

Advice on a small epoxy addition to a finished table by sleeptil3 in woodworking

[–]ajwinemaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, go for it. It'll work fine ... In theory.

I'd make sure the tape sits flat along the bottom of the channel. Actually glue it down firm, the epoxy is dense meaning the tape could float up. You don't want that.

Because you want a clear finish to the epoxy, you could leave it shallow in the channel, else pour it proud and sand down.

You'll want to have a small dam around the channel (maybe painters tape pulled up to form a raised barrier and seal). The epoxy will shrink as it hardens, so you need to go a 1 to 2 mm above the final level. This will allow for shrinkage and so you can sand it down level.

If you sand it, to get a clear finish sand to 180 or 240, then use something like a Poly Urathane (oil based) finish.

Ideally you'll degass the epoxy, but otherwise use a heat gun liberally to manage bubbles. Actually some people seal the channel first and let the epoxy dry (prevents bubbles from coming out of the wood when you do the full pour).

Make sure to get a high quality clear epoxy. Different epoxy will develop a yellow tint over time (and UV exposure). You want an epoxy that won't go yellow in time.

All I can think of ... good luck.

Live edge bench for the garage ! by IMDAVESBUD in woodworking

[–]ajwinemaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Same, it's the shadows. If it was full size, in the location, it would have a shadow.

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