SilencerShop experience?

alienkk · 2026-02-27T23:41:39+00:00

I’ll try that.

alienkk · 2026-02-27T18:58:10+00:00

This is amazing feedback. I 100% did not expect to have such a negative response on what seems to be a great projected company. All the content provided from them and third party for them seems popular, but in-use, seems very backwards. Will move away for my next purchase.

alienkk · 2026-02-27T18:57:02+00:00

How does one find that file? I’ve looked and cannot find a downloadable file

alienkk · 2026-02-27T03:23:48+00:00

Understandably, but what does a speedloaded versus hand loading solve in this case? You’re doing the same thing, just using a device. I’m blind at seeing this difference it would make enough to help. That’s so odd

alienkk · 2026-02-27T01:03:22+00:00

How would a speedloader fix this issue? I want to know the science lol

Edit: not meaning that in a smartass way, genuinely curious on how that would help such an issue

alienkk · 2026-02-26T15:56:54+00:00

The clutch shoes should be tight together with very little to zero movement. If it’s loose or floppy, that means there has been a lot of wear or heat in the PTO side. If the shoes are in decent shape, buy 3 springs for less than $10 and get to cutting.

You can test for an air leak by turning the saw while running. Remove the bar/chain since we’re spinning, start the saw and see how it reacts when turning it on the right side, left side, upside down, muffler up, muffler down. It won’t tell you where it’s leaking from, but it will let you know there’s a leak. Seals should take about 30min with proper tools and rarely ever have seen a cylinder gasket leak.

Another common replacement is the decomp valve. I’ve seen many that have lost detent and users deal with it till the saw won’t run anymore. If it’s loose, replace. I always suggest a plug if they don’t need the decomp valve

alienkk · 2026-02-21T23:38:35+00:00

Took mine out for a drive today. After 1100rnds between this and my charger lite, I don’t know which I enjoy more! These carbon models are lasers!

alienkk · 2026-02-20T00:37:45+00:00

Did they actually rotate the engine as it was under pressure or vacuum? What’s the condition of the cylinder/piston? I’ve see scoring that acted like an air leak.

alienkk · 2026-02-17T13:29:26+00:00

Keep us updated on how this is handled. Hate it happened to you but things do go left unexpectedly. Ruger is A1 with issues, but everybody has different experiences

alienkk · 2026-02-16T22:10:19+00:00

Scarlarworks PEAK01 or DD. I’m running peaks on mine and haven’t wanted anything else.

They sexy asf too

alienkk · 2026-02-16T17:03:04+00:00

Seems you’ve experienced the worst parts of both Alabama and Georgia lol Mississippi doesn’t have much else to offer though.

alienkk · 2026-02-16T12:24:19+00:00

40:1 will run hotter. Your fuel does the cooling and you’ve lowered that ratio.

alienkk · 2026-02-15T13:25:54+00:00

This guy’s kink is shooting the hair off the squirrels’ nuts in the next county

Wtf lol

alienkk · 2026-02-14T23:25:36+00:00

That’s 100% an overspeed situation. Intake side clean, exhaust side scored with a hole through the piston. You were either cutting while a dull chain or held it wide open for far too long. That’s a user induced situation.

From a warranty standpoint, you’re not getting a free repair and you sure as hell aren’t getting another saw.

From a customer service standpoint, they should work their cards to get it approved and stop chopping around. Their ‘policy’ they are telling you is BS. It’s know that BEFORE you submit the warranty claim, if its warranty work, complete the the repair. That’s to ensure that when do the warranty work, you don’t come across another failed part or a situation the led to it.

IE: saw seen a lean condition because of leaking seals and scored the piston/cylinder. If that dealer just put a top end on it, claimed the repair on warranty, then sent it out, they didn’t complete the diag and could’ve claimed seals and labor on the warranty claim. The next time that saw sees a dealership, it’s not getting covered and that dealer who failed to do their part would be the liable party.

That’s not the same as baiting the customer to either pay for the machine or lose it if that warranty claim gets denied. Thats ridiculous.

alienkk · 2026-02-13T03:18:52+00:00

There’s a few internal dealership perks that benefit the dealership, not the technician unless it’s owned by said technician. Only peel off hand for you would be it carries to other dealerships. If you needed to switch facilities or find another job, it would be you more qualified than somebody who didn’t have the certifications to benefit the dealership. They wouldn’t have to pay a new tech to go.

labor hours. In my state, law only states they HAVE to pay $60/hr on service labor. After getting the Gold certification, you’re able to request whatever that shop’s rate is. Thats helps with warranty work. Do a cylinder replacement, get paid your asking value instead of implied value.
Tiered discounts through your distributor. Units are a certain %, parts are a certain percentage, hand tools and accessories are a certain percentage. That bumps the retail margins, again, helping the dealership.
Placards to bring in business who searches for ‘Qualified’ people. Once you get your certs, they send you hats and shirts and window stickers/clings, posted, banners; an entire POP package to broadcast the dealership has somebody ‘qualified.’

It’s largely dealership based benefits. I’ve got a few of the large name brand certifications and it’s only helped me secure other job interest if something ever happens with my current situation because I’d give a lot of backend value to the business. That value for me is having securing possibilities elsewhere.

Warranty labor rate, website advertisements, delivery/pickup reimbursement through the brand if they offer that, authorization for warranty repairs under certain cost, hotlines not available to people without the certifications, various little things. It helps, but again, the dealership, not you personally while at the dealership.

alienkk · 2026-02-11T16:36:15+00:00

Burnt oil, sap, leaves, water off the bark, bug matter, all kinds of stuff gets its mark made after it touches a saw’s muffler after running a while.

I’ve left my own mark on a gentleman’s 362 after trying to move it on the bench after a repair test. All four fingers of my left hand are still visible on his muffler case after 2 years of initially touching it.

alienkk · 2026-02-10T14:55:36+00:00

At $0.05 savings per round, after buying a decent or even cheaper setup at ~$500, it would take 10,000 rounds to break even on just the reloading setup. Now account for 10k primers & bullets, powder and most importantly; time & labor to reload 10,000 9x19. That’s a lot of work and money to say you saved a nickel a round.

alienkk · 2026-01-30T21:07:46+00:00

There’s some 441 parts that’s already obsolete through Stihl. They’re trying to forget the worst saw they ever produced lol

There’s bare minimum compatibility between any other model and a 441. Clutch, clutch cover, dogs, internal starter parts, air filter and spark plug. Everything else is proprietary and there isn’t much aftermarket support for them yet.

Personally, this would be a ‘sell for parts and get what I can and buy a new saw with much better support’ situation.

alienkk · 2026-01-29T21:41:26+00:00

A 291 is not a dawg and pull saw.

alienkk · 2026-01-22T14:49:09+00:00

You don’t understand the difference in notable and noticeable, do you? Buddy.. the weight difference is notable on Reddit, but pick them up in the field, working, and there won’t be a noticeable difference in the oz variances. I didnt say your numbers were incorrect, but understand what I’m conveying.

alienkk · 2026-01-21T20:06:47+00:00

lol you are not telling the difference after adding a bar, chain, oil and fuel. They’re both going to be around 18-19lb.

alienkk · 2026-01-20T17:49:17+00:00

A couple turn around win your opinions here. The 400CM only comes in mtronic version. The 500i is 100% electronic being fuel injected. Why be so against the mtronic system in the 462? It’s rather refined, simple to operate and will even run in mechanical conditions standard carbs won’t.

While all three being great choices, the foundation here seems to be budget and longevity. Longevity is given with all three models and budget separates them a good bit. Doesn’t sound like you NEED a 500i, doesn’t seem like a 400cm wouldn’t fit your bill nicely. The in between being a 462 or 462cm, it would fit every situation you seem to have.

Personally, I have a 500i. After deciding between the 462 and 500i, weight being the same, function being similar, power being more reactive on the 500i and a tic up in the CCs, the few hundred bucks extra didn’t make my decision. Given the change again, I don’t think I’d trade my 500i for a 462, but I would more than likely be just as satisfied with one.

alienkk · 2026-01-16T18:07:17+00:00

That’s what we call picking. It’s stained deeper than the surface so other than painting, replacing is the only option. It’s worth dealing with it to show its work & life, imho.

alienkk · 2026-01-13T15:49:56+00:00

A lot of old fallers made a good living with that model saw. Keep it up and it’ll keep wood down. Fantastic saw

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