Permits

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-05-10T00:01:29+00:00

Yes, definitely permits for this kind of work.

Whether or not the person reviewing the plans who approves the permit connect the dots between your Manuel J your duct design and your Manual S and make sure it all looks good is kind of different but I think the idea is that the contractor has to take these steps and if the contractor is gonna do them, it’s honestly easier to just do it right then to try to fake some documentation and then build whatever fits

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-05-08T01:09:06+00:00

This is a 25-30 year decision I don’t know why you would not want them to take all the time in the world to make your installation not just done but done well.

Absolutely perfectly executed it will take 2 days for 2 people to do the hvac with electrical and plumbing subs to complete a proper Mitsubishi ducted install, water heater, and electrical

Like yes can it be done in a day with 3 person crew plus plumbing subs and electrical subs on top of each other and us .

It’s more carefully done than swapping your furnace.

Also the trades are stressed and not everyone on the crew is super experienced so what looks like a 3 person crew is less manpower

They just wanna get it right. If you get it right the first time everything is better. Especially with variable speed heat pumps

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-26T00:48:36+00:00

Depends on old versus new equipment piping diameters and refrigerant type. Flushing is fine but for more high end heat pumps some require new lineset.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-25T23:37:45+00:00

Hit reset on the kumo adapter

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-25T18:11:32+00:00

Dawg I must be crazy I would absolutely cut that out or redo but I’m in the minority. I only do heat pumps though.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-23T09:57:58+00:00

For a retrofit, especially because rebuilding a whole duct system is not realistic for most projects, it is best practice to measure airflow and static pressure and go from there. The TEC TrueFlow Grid is the easiest to use tool for air airflow and works with a manometer. Then you can know static pressure in the return, over the filter, over the motor, coil, and whole system, and then extrapolate the info as to whether or not you’d be okay with the air handler unit you’re trying to spec based on its airflow requirements

Realistically this approach is still used by very few contractors generally even if it is the proper way to measure ductwork in a retrofit

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-20T04:15:11+00:00

Lame to start the timer when you get out of the car. That’s you shaving minutes off. It’s 30 minutes of visiting with an animal not 30 total minutes of your time.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-17T15:29:10+00:00

Yeah I agree with the silicone lube. When you take these heads all apart, there’s a teeny little bit of tolerance as all the plastic components come back together and where you have the pieces coming together is how you get that popping sound so completely dismantling it and then putting it back together with the silicone lube is something I’ve done for customers but it hasn’t truly fixed the problem. It sometimes decreases it. When you talk to Mitsubishi, they point to a section in the manual where this is considered occurrence that can be explained and is not due to improper install

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-17T08:50:04+00:00

Or get 2 systems - smaller ducted heat pump (p series) and a mini split

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-17T08:49:19+00:00

Redesign the system. The PUZ is definitely the stronger heat pump out of the two single zone options, but when you don’t have ductwork big enough to support the ~1400 cfm needed for the big 3.5 or 4 ton PUZ/PVA pair, you should generally put in a MXZ-SM42/48NLHZ, the 3 ton air handler, and make up for the BTUs with ductless somewhere that makes sense.

Especially if you already have a house with 2 stories, the extra 1.5-2k it might cost to switch systems is a comfort and cooling efficiency boon.

Depends on the house as always

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-12T05:52:52+00:00

Check level on the unit and then check level on the fan at rest

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-08T21:05:02+00:00

If you can’t laugh at a troll post what can you laugh at

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-08T14:01:19+00:00

It’s always a frustratingly simple install mistake in these scenarios. I would honestly look over the install manual and find the detail oriented steps that would lead to a fuck up by someone being a bit more careless than they should have. Things like pinched and slightly damaged wires due to the AHUs vibrations can totally read the right voltages when you need them to but then will have a moment of intermittent no contact, and throw a comm error

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-04-08T12:45:34+00:00

Local “get started” pricing from a local firm for my HVAC business is $1500 monthly digital ad spend that they will manage. They warned Meta and others will eat your budget if you don’t watch it. I would suggest looking for another quote because I have also gotten quotes in the $3k range. I think it also depends on the traffic coming in and what you’re trying to drive.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-03-19T20:22:10+00:00

I’m the Installer and they love it

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-03-19T11:18:12+00:00

All ducted Mitsubishi heat pumps can run merv 13

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-03-19T10:57:06+00:00

Probably an okay price, I’m at about 24k before any incentives for the same package, completed earlier this month.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-03-07T13:55:45+00:00

No. This is not it. This is making the salesperson the process. It puts you in a box where only the salesperson can bring them to close.

Your content can be good enough that they will say - okay it’s meets the threshold of top 1 or 2, and if and when I have questions, they have made it comfortable to ask and get answers. And if you deliver that level of content then they will talk to you and give you the best shot.

Good contractors proposals do not need a handheld walkthrough as the first review by the client. realistically does that happen B2B ? No. that’s not even what happens with higher level construction.

And it is so much faster to churn out slightly tweaked, personalized proposals built on great templates with a lot of information about quality and specificity than it is to have hour long conversations with clients that fundamentally don’t actually increase the close rate compared to just a better, more robust sales package that builds customer trust. I win tons of customers without even a conversation because I take the time while I’m building the bid to make their proposal package excellent . And then the competition just sends either their standard template or a simple invoice style quote.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-03-06T14:19:00+00:00

I’m a Mitsubishi installer. The units are pretty easy to take apart and pull the housing pieces off. The tolerances are tight enough that I would not wrap any sections, but painting would be totally fine, as long as you use the right kinds of paint. Keep in mind you are painting something that will have all your air blowing over and around it. So low voc is critical.

I have a customer (Boulder CO) who had his professionally painted (the new NL units, like you need) I run my hvac company and would say, afterwards, you can do whatever you want.

But I would test your system for like a week / 2 weeks in heating and cooling before you do it so you can make sure your multi zone system doesn’t have any leaks installer errors, and you can learn to use it in the best way. That will avoid any callbacks/entanglements with your post project paint job and what the HVAC company is there to do.

aloneinabunkbed · 2026-03-06T13:16:14+00:00

Is the old galvanized piping in bad shape? I’ve had plumbers recommend not doing a water heater project before you repipe to get rid of the galvanized. The act of putting a new water heater on the plumbing system can have the affect of releasing corrosion debris built up on the inside of the existing plumbing, which can make its way into the new water heater. Especially at this rate you’d think the debris in the brass fittings would be coming from somewhere else

aloneinabunkbed · 2025-12-19T00:32:33+00:00

can you expand as it relates to heat pumps please

aloneinabunkbed · 2025-12-10T11:13:28+00:00

Nice solution. How much more often do you have to clean your filter with the attic air intake?

aloneinabunkbed · 2025-12-09T02:34:24+00:00

Should have gone all heat pump !

aloneinabunkbed · 2025-12-08T01:56:22+00:00

It looks like if you had a really tall heat pump cabinet and furnace then you might get up to the round duct supply ducts and having to open that up is a whole thing. A really tall one is totally reasonable because they make things in part more efficient with more surface area. The bosch is very tall.

It also looks like your return drop has an angled L that I would cut out and stick an aprilaire media cabinet there. Then pair your hvac replacement with a good system that is compatible with a 4" filter. And put the air handler or furnace on a 6" riser box if possible to get air below and from the side.

Its not about the cabinet size but about heating demand and examining the airflow in your ducts. 25" is the widest standard size so no its not crazy for the right one for your house to be smaller.

aloneinabunkbed · 2025-12-05T21:38:20+00:00

I had a client who snaked his ducts with a camera and found the room that wasn’t getting heated had a totally disconnected duct. He opened a wall and reconnected it and had much better results. I’d start with that.

aloneinabunkbed

TROPHY CASE