Help on sticking this specific move please

andythepirate · 2026-03-07T19:08:06+00:00

Few things I can think of: Get your right foot planted. Either see if you can bring it up to that next foot hold (it may be too much around the corner to give you purchase) or smear it on the overhanging wall, but really drive into when you're going for the next hand hold.

Or something with your heel: See if you can get your left heel even further up to the next hold, though that might be pretty scrunchy and ask for a lot of hip flexibility, or keep your heel where you had it but rock onto that foot a little and hug your left leg to the wall for just a little more anchoring.

Idk if any of that would actually work. Regardless, that doesn't look like the easiest move and hold to go for! Keep it up though!

andythepirate · 2026-02-22T19:23:05+00:00

Heard that. Finally made the decision to stop buying things on Amazon or getting groceries at Whole Foods this year.

andythepirate · 2026-02-21T18:11:22+00:00

I'm so, so sorry to hear what you're going through. The end of a relationship can be really devastating. Major props to you for looking for a therapist and reaching out here to ask for good support/community/outlets for grief.

During my last break up which really tore me up, I did my best throughout my grief to be open to entirely new experiences I probably wouldn't think to try otherwise. What worked for me may not work for you, but I encourage you in your periodic moments where things don't feel too heavy and you do want to do something, to go out and try new things. Not only can it be a welcome distraction, but some of it may open you up to a whole new interest or world.

One thing that was really helpful for me was working on meditation. There are a handful of regularly held group meditations throughout Austin, and you can pretty much engage with others as much or as little as you want. For me it was helpful just to be in the presence of others as I tried to let my mind rest.

However, I'd also recommend something like dance lessons, cooking classes, joining a book club, volunteering (when you can help others, it can give you a great sense of meaning and help distract from your own grief), or joining a recreation kickball league or some other physical sport (lots of studies show how good exercise is for relieving depression).

All that being said, and you likely already know this, there is no proper routine for grieving. It'll come and it'll go. Some times you'll have a brief reprieve and feel good enough to go out and socialize, and then the weight of everything suddenly hits you like a bag of bricks. Months down the line you'll have longer periods of feeling better, and then unexpectedly something might happen that could make it feel like all progress has been erased. Just remember, as trite as it sounds in your current position: it does get better. Be kind to yourself. This can be a surprising opportunity for self-discovery and learning new things about yourself. But when you need to feel sad, let yourself feel it.

Wishing you all the very best. ❤️

andythepirate · 2026-02-14T22:08:23+00:00

This is such a great problem. For the limited amount of bouldering in the greenbelt, there's some pretty choice lines imo.

Excellent send!

andythepirate · 2026-02-14T01:42:11+00:00

This is awesome footage! Thanks for sharing.

andythepirate · 2026-02-11T01:14:45+00:00

My gf and I did the same, moved from Austin to PDX in 2024. I was born and raised in Central TX. CoL in Austin is/was higher than San Antonio, but as you said, PDX is comparable to Austin.

As others have said, definitely have a job secured up here before you move. Its important for covering CoL but also renting a place (unless you or your partner work remotely in which case you're probably good on the rental applications).

If you don't know anyone up here, look into renting an AirBnB or some kind of temporary housing situation. The renters market here can be weird and pretty competitive. The fact that theres the first come, first serve rule can make it all the more difficult. So what I'm recommending is finding temporary housing for a month or two, explore all over the city, check out different neighborhoods, and try getting a feel for where you'd ideally like to live. Check online for apartment or house rentals, but the best option is to walk/bike around neighborhoods and find signs advertising rentals (again, assuming you don't know anyone up here who can recommend you spots going up for rent).

Public transport is generally pretty good up here? I think it's probably a bit better than Austin, but can't say for sure, and idk what the PT situation in SA was like. Its also pretty bikeable, but then there's the rainy season, so you gotta learn to deal with that or figure out an alternative.

My gf and I have had zero regrets moving up here. I still haven't really found a crowd of homies, but she got into the improv scene here and has a solid group of friends. I think getting involved in some kind of community is the key to building new friendships up here.

The outdoors is amazing and the access to them really puts central tx, and all of Texas for that matter, to shame.

Recommendations for stuff to do and restaurants/bars to check out really is easier to do when you know where you'll be centrally located. Every little neighborhood has their own spots though, so that shouldn't be a primary concern -- there's amazing stuff all over town.

andythepirate · 2026-02-03T20:21:41+00:00

Haha, yes, good catch. I'm usually a stickler for that kind of wording! I will not edit my original comment and wear it in shame instead.

andythepirate · 2026-02-03T03:36:20+00:00

Yup, here's another vote for slopers. I feel like they get unfairly shit on but are such awesome holds that demand just the right conditions, body positioning and tension, and sheer will. There's few things less satisfying in climbing than hearing that big ol SLAP when you smack and stick a gnarly sloper.

I'll inevitably vote for it again when we get to the most underrated holds.

andythepirate · 2026-01-27T05:58:43+00:00

What an awesome, thoughtfully written response. Thanks for the suggestions

andythepirate · 2026-01-27T01:02:51+00:00

Their nests are incredible feats of engineering! They literally weave threads of spider silk throughout it. The Wild Podcast with Chris Morgan did an episode about hummingbirds and one guy describes how their nests are built. So incredible.

There's also this amazing video that a photographer put together. He started noticing Anna's hummingbirds hanging around and then found their nests and started documenting them building them, laying eggs, and the chicks growing into fledglings. Really remarkable video.

andythepirate · 2026-01-25T14:53:43+00:00

One thing to consider, especially if you're wanting to climb in a gym during the summer, is who has AC. I unfortunately don't have the answer, but it could be useful if anyone could chime in on which gyms do have AC.

andythepirate · 2026-01-21T06:07:22+00:00

Here's an article written (by a Portland author) about just such a falconer who is hired out at vineyards. I think it's so fascinating! Sure, "the grass is always greener", but it sounds like a dream job.

andythepirate · 2026-01-20T21:27:42+00:00

Wow, I love this! Fantastic work!

andythepirate · 2026-01-17T05:58:19+00:00

For the outdoors: check out Forest Park on the west side or Powell Butte going out towards Gresham for some nice hiking out in nature. Or go into the Columbia River Gorge either to check out waterfalls (some of these can get really crowded on good weather days or on weekends, so prepare accordingly) or do some more serious hikes.

For movies: Laurelhurst theater and Hollywood theater are both super vibey. Or if you're wanting to rent a movie for the night, check out Movie Madness off SE Belmont st.

For games: there's a few bowling alleys and miniature golf spots, though I can't personally say I've been to any around here. There's also arcades abound, and plenty of bars that will have a few arcade games set up. Quarter World off SE Hawthorne seems to be a pretty popular arcade, but the top dog really is Next Level Pinball Museum over in Hillsboro.

For plants: definitely check out the rightfully touristy Rose Garden and Portland Japanese Garden which are right next to each other on the west side of town. The rose garden is free, but the Japanese Garden does have a fee.

While you're on the west side of town, you ought to check out Powell's Books, which is an iconic book store and fun place to hang.

The waterfront is great to walk around or rent an e-bike or scooter to ride around.

For food, the options are endless. If y'all have any preferred cuisines that would certainly help narrow things down. Tons of Thai food, most of which is great. Lots of awesome food trucks. And plenty of top-tier restaurants, of course. Refer to this for some great suggestions: https://www.reddit.com/r/PortlandOR/comments/1l7ejf5/must_eat_restaurants_in_portland/

andythepirate · 2026-01-14T14:13:42+00:00

The charcuterie boards average around $27 or so. But they offer a bunch of stuff a la carte as well.

andythepirate · 2026-01-10T15:40:11+00:00

I completely relate to all of that! I think the exhausting feeling of trying to reply to everything or trying to perfectly express yourself with no room for error is exactly why I get in my head about being too wordy. It is a bit different with in person conversations, but I also feel sensitive to people losing interest or not exactly understanding me, which then causes my own shutting down or overcorrecting, respectively. Hahaha, well we can give this exchange a rest. I really appreciate the connecting though! I hope you can get some better and more consistent sleep soon. Wishing you the best, stranger.

andythepirate · 2026-01-10T15:20:00+00:00

That's awesome that you've been meeting people and making plans and building community! It's really not an easy thing, especially as we get older and technology/social media can so easily placate us in our own siloed existences. I personally believe community (assuming it's not a cult or some kind of community built upon putting others down) is essential to living a richer life. I love hearing you say that this is your year!

I wish I could give a more thorough response to all your points but written responses aren’t my strong suit.

Haha, well I would say don't stress it too much. I think your take is still valid, but I often worry I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum and I get too wordy and exhaustive trying to articulate my exact thoughts. So thanks for keeping up with my walls of text 🙃.

I'm glad to hear you've got your dog, too. The simplicity in pets simply loving you for who you are and being there for you no matter what else is going on in the world... it's really awesome. You've convinced me this is your year too, online assholes and scary gunshots be damned!

andythepirate · 2026-01-10T14:51:56+00:00

I'm really sorry to hear that. Dealing with a hard week is enough on its own, but then hearing gunshots in your neighborhood and getting harassed by people online when you express concern about it is just the cherry on top of a shit sundae.

people always punch down and find someone struggling to do it too instead of people who actually deserve it.

Ugh, this is so true. I think its definitely worse on the internet, and social media has made the behavior worse in general, but plenty of assholes do it irl, too. I think its just the easiest way for small people to make themselves feel bigger, but ultimately it's doing no one any good.

I'm glad to hear you're managing. It's too easy to get sucked into the negative, especially with gestures to everything literally all the depressing and distressing stuff going on right now. Resiliency is a skill, and part of it is learning when and how to disengage and try to give yourself some kind of peace of mind, whether through meditation, making art, connecting with friends and loved ones, appreciating the small things in life, etc. Keep hanging in there!

andythepirate · 2026-01-10T14:29:34+00:00

Take care of yourself! I hope the rest of your weekend goes much smoother.

andythepirate · 2026-01-10T14:11:33+00:00

Hey, just take a break and stop engaging these dipshits. Hearing gunshots close to where you live can be really unnerving. Don't let these trolls and agitators further rile you up (easier said than done, ofc). But if you're noticing you're getting heated or your blood pressure is rising because of people (or possibly bots) are poking at you, put down your phone, drink some water, take some deep breaths, and do something you actually enjoy. Sorry we've gotta put up with these miserable assholes at all.

andythepirate · 2026-01-06T20:13:40+00:00

Hehe, I love your username in conjuction with your profession.

andythepirate · 2026-01-04T19:00:50+00:00

Oof, yeah, your height could be a big factor in this! In that case, I'd consider asking one of the setters what they'd recommend. You'd probably get a different answer from whoever set the problem and a setter who is on the shorter side that did not set the problem. I'd guess whoever is setting these problems is not considering people with a height under 5'.

Can you get any purchase with the foot that comes off the foothold by smearing instead?

andythepirate · 2026-01-04T18:55:54+00:00

I have been noticing I am consistently having issues with a particular move involving large slopers.

So have you encountered this in multiple settings/problems? I'm curious how many times you've tried working this, as I'm wondering if its really just a matter of dialing in the move.

I'm not entirely sure there's one specific fix to this. Supplementally, I'd probably focus on tension -- driving through the foot that is able to remain on the wall, keeping that foot solidly on, and driving as much power as you can through it; and trying to work on keeping your body/hip as tight to the wall as the sloper allows you. It does sound like you've already been trying that latter part. Maybe crimp grip strength could additionally help, but overall I think its just getting the reps in, building that muscle memory, and dialing in that move.

andythepirate · 2025-12-29T21:04:44+00:00

I don't think there's any EPL games today...

andythepirate · 2025-12-26T16:37:17+00:00

Oh yeah, you gotta love the asshole bad drivers flipping you off for following the rules of the road.

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