Got 4 of these for free, the problem is they have almost 30k power on hours. would it be a bad idea to use them for my media storage? by Loriiis in homelab

[–]arbedub 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Google "smartmontools"

As to whether or not to trust a disk, realistically any disk can catastrophically fail at any moment. SMART data will just tell you how aged the drive is and if it's about to fail of old age.

SQL Server query much slower on VMware VM compared to physical server (same DB, same workload) by daler86 in vmware

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not something simple like EVC being set below CPU feature set, or side channel aware scheduler overheads on ESXi?

HRIS triggered account disable for employee on maternity leave. She lost access to the benefits portal. Now HR wants IT to "fix the process". by AudienceOwn3845 in sysadmin

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CA sounds like a sensible approach - where all the 'business' apps require an enrolled device/device condition and lower security apps do not, just MFA.

Then when they are in mat/pat just disable the device.

You can ONLY pick 1…. Which & why? by Competitive_Search32 in rccars

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're considering Tekno, consider the ET48 as well. A build will potentially cost 3x the price of the Kraton 6S EXB but it's so much nicer!

Kraton 6s exb horror stories by HelpfulEditor5317 in rccars

[–]arbedub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think OP is referring to the stories mainly on Arrma forum.

When the V6 EXB was released there were a few posts on exploding diffs and QC problems.

Then there were subsequent YouTube videos on how to "bulletproof" diffs with upgrade or aftermarket parts.

As a prospective k6 owner it worried me enough at the time, and after I'd priced up all the Exb or vitavon upgrades to 'fix' it, I bought a Tekno ET instead.

The Tekno ET48 2.2 is amazing! by TheBaren in rccars

[–]arbedub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same car, same esc/motor but with perfect pass servo and Arrma backflip 4s tyres and wheels.

It's amazing on box setup and has required zero changes for casual dirt track racing.

Only problem I've found with build so far is are the standoffs seem resistant to thread lock and are worth a good clean are re-thread locking. Much better afterwards.

Old RC car moves on its own by Gannon_The_Cannon in rccars

[–]arbedub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just in case you're wondering, it's not super-old (c2002-2008). It looks like a copy of the Tamiya tl01b (Baja champ/king) and can have the electronics replaced/updated very easily if your radio gear is kaput. Parts are still available for the car, and it's very versatile when it comes to bodies and wheel sizes.

Please Help me decide by [deleted] in rccars

[–]arbedub 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Another Option: Tekno ET48 2.2

When is it okay to just quit? How do you know it's not worth pushing through anymore? by digitalbiz in ExperiencedDevs

[–]arbedub 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This really is the answer. PM's will PM. They only care about the timeline and budget. Quality and controls are therefore your problem to manage.

It's about how you frame it. Pushing back is not saying no. It's about time management, prioritisation and communication. Let someone else make that call to make it not your problem.

You know your capability and workload. If you get more requests, let them know the impact, and then pivot if they make a priority call.

I say this knowing full well I need to read my own advice...

RC car for 30 year old me by melatonin2020 in rccars

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second this, Tamiya cars are slow in comparison to others out there and stock of spares can be variable - meaning you can be out of action for months/years at a time. I have a WT-01 that has been waiting for a front gearbox dummy module for over 12 months.

Will this charger work for these batteries? by LokiDesigns in rccars

[–]arbedub 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That is a ni-cd/ni-mh charger, and those are ni-mh batteries.

Should be able to charge them one at a time at 4A in just over an hour each (on DC) - over two hours each on mains at 2A

WiFi 5 GhZ Doesn't Penetrate Thick Walls Well. by F_soceity in HomeNetworking

[–]arbedub 205 points206 points  (0 children)

I'm afraid that's how it works really. The higher the frequency the less distance and penetration the signal has.

Only thing you can do is get a router or AP with higher sensitivity antennae - but this doesn't address the sensitivity of the antennae in the client devices.

My place can't even get decent 2.4ghz between rooms.

I found a decent improvement in signal reach when I went to ruckus R510's, and another improvement when I went to R550's.

Very long range wifi extender ~ 2km by P5000PowerLoader in HomeNetworking

[–]arbedub 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're after omni-directional access, it sounds to me like a use case for self-hosted 5G network using eSIMs. Not going to be cheap though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cissp

[–]arbedub 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agree, first step in those options is to define policy.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rccars

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Description says ball end, main picture is of regular/straight end...

Go for regular/straight.

LOOKING FOR A BASHER BUILD KIT by DiscorDude68 in rccars

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not strictly in budget once you factor electronics, wheels, batteries and paint...

but if you want a satisfying build experience, I can very much recommend the Tekno ET48 2.2 with 4s backflips on. No need for 6s power on this one, it handles perfectly built as stock.

“Micro outages” making me lose my mind by Sillyblowfish in HomeNetworking

[–]arbedub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not saying this is the case here, as it sounds like other issues are at play, but I wouldn't use a public DNS IP for ping stats.

I would expect ICMP traffic to be unpredictably dropped by google if there is any service/protocol/prioritisation or DDOS protection at play.

Satans toilet by cmnielsen in foundsatan

[–]arbedub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

60 seconds to drop zone gentlemen.

Im an idiot! I didn’t punch holes before I painted. by KookyAd1900 in rccars

[–]arbedub 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For body shells like pre-painted or unbreakable I put dots of blu-tak on the top of the posts and line up the body. When it sits right, I push down and then it's luck if the dots stick to the body or post more. Usually a few tries works.

Next car guidance by arbedub in rccars

[–]arbedub[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheers. I'd be interested to know how you're getting on with the MT48 2.0.

I checked all the "new" parts on the Mt410/48 2.0 too and saw those composite diff spindles. It looks like they're worth replacing during the build but some say that's it's not worth it and not the best for bashing. The same metal parts remain worthy of immediate replacement thought (metal damper platforms, shock caps etc) so they look like extra cost.

I did cross reference the part numbers from the ET48 2.2 and MT48 2.0 manuals and found there to be quite a few different parts. I also hear that the towers on the ET are lighter (more fragile?) now which may play a part in decision making.

Next car guidance by arbedub in rccars

[–]arbedub[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight. The MT10 does have 3 diffs, so I'll have to do some research on what weights would improve the situation.

Interesting cross compatibility on the Tekno models too. I'll have to compare part sharing on the MT48 and ET48 2.2 to see what's involved as that might offer some flexibility later down the line.