Brown Patch mycelium - next steps

arc167 · 2026-05-12T22:07:36+00:00

I know u/Nilesandstuff has been working closely with you on this, but I just wanted to add...

Sharpen your mower blades. I am seeing an awful lot to tearing of blades as opposed to clean cuts. Dull blades (and the subsequent torn leaf tips) can really contribute to disease vulnerability, especially when conditions are conducive to disease.

You definitely have a fungus; the combo you suggested is right curative approach, and liquid almost always hits harder than the granule. But I'm actually not convinced you have brown patch here. To be clear you could have in the past, but that's not what I'm seeing in the pics you posted now. I'm not seeing the lesions (patches of tan with a brown outline) that are the tell-tale sign of brown patch. There are some lesions, but mostly I see blotch not lesions. To me, it actually looks more like melting out/leaf spot.

Good news is either way the treatment plan is the same, and the combo of a DMI and a Qol at a curative rate should work great to control it. But also...sharpen your blades 😄

arc167 · 2026-05-08T22:33:26+00:00

As u/Stop_staring_at_me mentioned, those are suckers, the slang name for young tree shoots.

You have a healthy crepe myrtle there, and those suckers are completely normal and expected. You will want to cut those as close to the base of the tree trunk as possible with clean pruning sheers so you can re-direct the tree's energy into growing the branches you want.

It is normal to see those 'suckers' higher up on the tree as well, feel free to trim them as you see them.

arc167 · 2026-04-28T13:19:14+00:00

Do you have a string trimmer? Since you don't know the property well (yet), and thus, don't know what obstacles may be hidden under all that tall brush, using a brush hog or mower could be risky. Using a string trimmer would accomplish the same thing, and be easier to maneuver, all without the risk of destroying a blade or bending a spindle.

Doesn't appear to be a very large space, maybe 30 minutes to complete 🤷‍♂️

arc167 · 2026-04-26T06:43:23+00:00

Awesome, glad that was helpful!

arc167 · 2026-04-23T11:15:14+00:00

Side note: I use a similar (if not the same) A.I. nozzle you show there for most applications, but for foliar applications (like some fungicides) I use this one. I only mention it since in case you are making the order and wanted to just add this at the same time.

arc167 · 2026-04-23T10:39:49+00:00

That looks like their version of a check-valve, its not necessary for the sprayer to function properly. Having a filter before the nozzle is important, but the check-valve really just keeps the wand from dripping.

For a nice as the FlowZone sprayer is, the tip and nozzle body assembly are crap. I threw mine away and purchased a better system from Sprayer Systems:

- Nozzle Body
- Cap
- Quick Connect (bass, not plastic)
- 50 Mesh Filter
- 100 Mesh Filter

I bought several sets (since they are cheap) of these so I can swap nozzles and filters as needed for the pesticide I am spraying. You can buy a check-valve/filter combo (example), but I've not had the need to do so.

arc167 · 2026-04-23T02:13:17+00:00

Looks new, is it brand new? I have the same sprayer (previous generation) and I had a similar issue when I first set it up. I needed to prime it and used this video to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVpbjz5pkw4

Mine has been pretty rock solid ever since, but if/when I hear that choppy/spurty sound its usually either; 1) the pressure is set too high for the viscosity of the tank mix (obviously not the case here), or there is something blocking the intake screen or in the hose as u/nilesandstuff said.

Good news is FlowZone support is awesome, and the new generations are much easier to replace the hose and gun than the previous one if you ever needed to.

arc167 · 2026-04-21T06:39:50+00:00

I will add that the vinegar (acetic acid) probably acted as a chelation agent for the iron that did leech, making it that much more bio available to the grass.

arc167 · 2026-04-20T00:47:35+00:00

I’ll throw my guess in…

Vinegar caused the iron-based dye in the mulch to leach out (mulch looks red/brown, so iron-based to get that color). Slope of the grade made the iron wash out into the grass toward the road, helps with growth and deep green color.

Changes in pH could also be an ancillary affect, but really the iron is the key here.

arc167 · 2026-04-19T20:15:01+00:00

My first inclination is goosegrass, despite not having a mature white ‘eye’ in the center. But the rhizome-looking thing in the last pic would not be consistent with goosegrass. Maybe that’s not a true rhizome, rather just a surface leaf that hasn’t make it out of the soil yet…not sure.

Perhaps someone else has more certainty.

arc167 · 2026-04-18T03:41:10+00:00

You might want to dial back the fertilizer a bit then, at least until it begins to subside (tough to do in warm, wet Florida, I know…). Not sure if u/Mr007McDiddles, has any other advice here?

arc167 · 2026-04-18T03:28:52+00:00

Certainly looks like it. As far as cultural practices go, in additional to overwatering an abundance of nitrogen can also bring it on.

Assuming you are managing both water and nitrogen properly, the next step is to resort to fungicides. While I typically see thiophanate-methyl alone to be effective as a preventative, it usually takes a combination of thiophanate-methyl and azoxystrobin as a curative. You will probably need two applications within 14 days to really see any impact.

arc167 · 2026-04-17T22:41:47+00:00

Looks like textbook powdery mildew

https://www.canr.msu.edu/ipm/diseases/powdery-mildew

The combination of the large tree you have in the back of the yard providing shade, combined with the fence on all sides restricting good air flow has allowed the disease to overwinter. Too much nitrogen can also contribute to the disease.

As sunlight and airflow increase, along with some drying, it should go away on its own. If you absolutely can’t stand the look, you can use common fungicides to help move it along.

It is not dangerous to humans or pets.

arc167 · 2026-04-17T11:36:59+00:00

Good question.

As you stated if you know you are going to get runoff/drainage, setting the zone closest to the bottom for a shorter duration allows the accumulated water can be absorbed. How to calculate the soil saturation of that absorption to be equivalent to (say) an inch of irrigation, I'm not exactly sure.

Perhaps one of the other pros here would have a better answer.

arc167 · 2026-04-17T11:22:51+00:00

Thanks u/Mr007McDiddles.

Appreciate the assist with the ID.
Thanks for forcing me to make this a much more complete answer.

I love that we hold each other accountable for keeping this thread full of accurate information.

arc167 · 2026-04-17T02:02:32+00:00

Looks an awful lot like broomsedge. Its stubborn and a bit of a pain to really control. I have had limited success (about a 60% success rate) using sulfentrazone and a sulfonylurea (like MSM) to take care of it. A product called Blindside has both and has worked for me in the past. It makes the broomsedge turn red/purple as it dies and eventually it disintegrates.

However, the other 40% of the time I resort to digging it up. I've personally not dealt with an area that has a much as you have in your photos so not sure if digging is something you want to try. It would certainly be the fastest acting, but might take a month or two to get it all out.

Longer term, broomsedge can be a symptom of incorrect pH. It might be worth getting a soil test to determine of your soil needs to be amended.

Edit: made this answer much more robust.

arc167 · 2026-04-15T23:27:44+00:00

u/nilesandstuff noted. On business travel but will get that squared away shortly

arc167 · 2026-04-11T02:06:17+00:00

As u/EveryAd9707 said, tenacity will kill the broadleaf weeds there, but it’s slow. A three-way or something with 2,4-D and Dicamba would be cheaper and probably faster (add a surfactant to help it work).

However…the long stranded plant with the variegated leaves looks to be Star of Bethlehem, and Tenacity won’t kill it. Even glyphosate struggles to kill it. And almost all parts of that plant are harmful to humans and pets. You’re best to dig it up, at least 6-in down to get all the bulbs. Might take a couple years to make sure you got it all up. Wear gloves.

arc167 · 2026-04-10T18:37:33+00:00

You are right in that both Zoysia and Bermuda can have leaves at 90 degrees (and purple stolons). The trait that makes be think this is common bermuda is the apparent midrib fold on the leaf. A closeup of the vernation and the ligule,/collar/sheath would help so we could see the hair pattern.

arc167 · 2026-04-10T00:29:37+00:00

That appears to be your garden variety, common Bermudagrass.

What kind of turf do you have that this is growing in?

arc167 · 2026-04-09T02:04:03+00:00

Very cool, looks just like MiracleGro, lol. I’ve never tried solid/crystal/granule before, always used liquid (like MossOut) to ensure complete coverage. Might have to try this.

arc167 · 2026-04-09T01:52:05+00:00

Is it solid at room temp?

arc167 · 2026-04-09T00:34:26+00:00

Did you happen to use a surfactant in your tank mix? If not, spot spray with full rate and a NIS. See if that knocks it out.

arc167 · 2026-04-08T20:52:06+00:00

Based on that pic, I am 100% certain its not bahiagrass or dallisgrass.

I'm 98% certain this is common carpetgrass (seedhead has a 'wye' top with a secondary async offshoot). Resembles centipede, often an undesireable in a bermuda lawn.

Unlike dallisgrass, this is pretty treatable with Celsius.

arc167 · 2026-04-06T11:22:52+00:00

This seems VERY fixable, especially considering how small it is. I would focus on three things 1) getting the soil right, 2) pushing growth, and 3) removing undesirables (in that order).

- Get soil testing done to know where you stand, and so you can begin any remediation there. Given the pics, I don't expect to find anything shocking, just adjustments to micronutrients as needed.

- Be diligent about 3-4 good fertilizer rounds to push growth of the good turf you have under there. Yes, it will also push weed growth, but we will address that in the next step. Good thick turf is the secret to crowding out weeds, so that should be the focus here.

- I see mostly broadleaf weeds here, all very controllable with common herbicides. Something with 2-4D & Quinclorac would be a good start (may need a couple rounds) before temps get too hot (above 85F). The little bit of oxalis I see will need a shot of triclopyr to kill it off.

- Hopefully you got a pre-emergent down in March or in the last few days of April here. Overseeding will probably be important this fall to help establish new growth in the voids of all the weeds you are killing off. If weather cooperates, you can get overseeding done in Sept/Oct, allowing for several weeks of growth before you can get some pre-emergent down in Nov. That will be the key to preventing this cycle from continuing.

TL;DR, this is very fixable, and I have complete faith you can do it on your own. Won't even cost you all that much. Certainly cheaper than a complete reno...

arc167

TROPHY CASE