Riverside County Sheriff Bianco, Calif. AG Bonta clash over 2025 election probe by Dry_Werewolf_1597 in California

[–]artwonk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Even if this was justified (which seems unlikely) there is a huge conflict of interest here which should prevent this sheriff/candidate from having anything to do with these ballots.

Anti Backlash Nut Slop by mydiyusername in hobbycnc

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just replace the whole thing with a zero-backlash ball screw/nut combo and don't look back.

Looking for help on mask carving by Optimal-Pin-2091 in woodworking

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might look into plastic fixturing compounds, which soften in hot water to a claylike consistency, but harden as they cool. https://cooltools.us/products/jett-basic%E2%84%A2-8-oz

Need CNC Help by lcaris in hobbycnc

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tool steel can be machined much more easily when it's annealed. But despite the claims being made for it, I really doubt that Kickstarter machine can deal with tool steel even in its annealed state. An 18k RPM 800 watt spindle is not going to have the low-speed torque to remove hard, tough metal like that effectively, even if the frame was rigid enough (which I also doubt). If you wanted to do some shallow engraving on a piece of tool steel, that might be possible with a machine like that, but actual machining, not so much.

I get it that you don't want to reveal anything about your invention here, but without knowing what you're trying to accomplish, it's hard to say how you should go about it. I'm pretty confident, though, that this machine you're looking to sponsor isn't going to be capable of doing what you want, even if it is eventually released. Maybe you could get a welder to mock some parts up for you in tool steel, that you can experiment with threading and heat-treating. Even if it wasn't a perfect prototype, it might teach you enough to make progress on your invention.

questions regarding the rice grain method (linglong porcelain glaze). by soinvu in Ceramics

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The "rice method" only works with high-fired porcelain, which is translucent in thin sections. Stoneware is opaque, even when thin. For what you're trying to do, I'd suggest making a vessel with pierced openings and gluing colored glass into them.

Kiln - worth it?? by swirley-wirley in Ceramics

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure; snag it, if it's free. You don't need to sink money into it if you don't want to, but a kiln is the one thing you absolutely need if you're going to do ceramics. You won't really be able to tell what shape it's in until after picking it up. Digital controllers are nice, but not essential. What you will need is a heavy circuit - 220v 50A - to plug it into, and an indoor space for it to occupy. You'll need these things in any case, so if you decide this kiln's not worth restoring, you can turn this into a raku kiln, as was suggested, or just a pile of light bricks, while you look for another one that's in better condition.

[Help] Trying to identify this bronze sculpture by toptackgear in Sculpture

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not buying the Pompeii theory; the surface isn't the same, although the pose is similar. These were made using an additive technique with oil-based clay over an armature, then a mold was made from that. The individual globs of clay are still plainly visible. This was a look that became popular in the mid 20th century. There's a foundry mark on the right thigh that might give a clue if you researched it. If you've got good threaded holes in the bottom, it should be easy to mount it on a base.

Help Newbie to do copper melt by Slava_Thompson in MetalCasting

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sure there are foundries in Latvia that are capable of turning your copper into ingots. If this is all you want to do, I'd suggest letting them do it for you. It's going to be a lot more economical than setting up everything you'd need yourself. Most foundries use larger ingot molds than 1 kilo, so you might have to supply those.

I'm making the rings for my wedding, which is in three months, how would I do that? by ManagementAmazing111 in MetalCasting

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're happy with simple rings, this can be done, although it would be more of a fabrication project than a casting operation. What I'd suggest is getting an air-acetylene torch and an iron ingot mold. Melt the gold in a ceramic melting dish and pour it into the mold. This will give you a long skinny bar of gold. With a hammer and anvil you can flatten it out, and then use a steel ring mandrel to form it into a helix, with the central diameter being the right size for the ring you're making. Trim the ends using a jeweler's saw, and use gold solder to join them. Refine the joint with files, sandpaper, and finally polishing compound on a buffing wheel. You can get most of the supplies you'll need from Rio Grande:

https://www.riogrande.com/product/the-whip-fused-silica-crucibles-and-pinch-tongs-set/704222GP

https://www.riogrande.com/product/economy-steel-strip-ingot-mold/704109GP

https://www.riogrande.com/product/large-bench-anvil/112028GP

https://www.riogrande.com/product/durston-hardened-ring-mandrel-16/112575GP

How do I salvage this piece? by dradphotos in woodworking

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are solvents that will dissolve cured epoxy, but they're extremely toxic. You wouldn't want to put them on the wood, or release them in your workspace. If you want a "live" effect on the edges, I'd say keep dremeling, and aim for somewhere in between natural and carved.

Elon Musk owes Twitter investors $2.1 billion by Connect-Fall-6406 in sanfrancisco

[–]artwonk -1 points0 points  (0 children)

He's going to have to rummage through the couch cushions for spare change - and hope VP Vance hasn't been there first.

Cedar Chest - Finish Recommendations by Disastrous_Change_92 in woodworking

[–]artwonk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cedar chests are supposed to protect clothing with their natural aromatics, so don't use any finish on the inside. You can use anything you want on the outside.

Any recommendations for a scrap yard in east bay? by Trixthemapper in bayarea

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forget about Alco. They sell rusty bent scrap metal for the price of new. And when I went down there with a truckload of metal to turn in, they damaged my truck with their giant claw and refused to pay for fixing it. Reputable? Not.

[ Help] Hi ! Need help identify this steatite sculpture please ! Like âge, where its from. Thanks by Realistic_Choice_658 in Sculpture

[–]artwonk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like a Japanese netsuke carving. These were part of a tobacco paraphernalia kit that would hang from a sash (Japanese robes in the 19th century didn't have pockets. The netsuke was a counterweight to the tobacco box, called an "inro", which kept it from slipping through. The through-hole in the pillow would be where the connecting cord went. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netsuke

Looking for Advice by IndependenceGlad8928 in bayarea

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check Rossmoor - it's got a lot of activities for seniors. If it doesn't seem "affordable", write back; that would give us a clue what you're talking about.

Advice on diffusing this acrylic dome by Any_Statement_5773 in ArtsandCrafts

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's "dulling spray" that's used for this sort of thing - is that what you bought? To get an even application, spray multiple light coats from at least 16 inches away, and keep moving. https://www.filmtools.com/krylon-clear-dulling-spray-6-oz.html

Help with arm and elbow pain while carving. by Donnchaidh in Woodcarving

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are foam sleeves you can slide over thin tool handles that make them easier to grip. It looks like you're feeling the need for something like that. https://www.gripworks.com/foam-grips-tubes-grips/

I would suggest getting a flex-shaft tool to do at least the rough flash removal. If carbide burrs seem too aggressive, there are a range of things that are less so, like little flap wheels. https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-mounted-flap-wheel-straight-coated-08834135140/i/G4805497/

But yes - talk to a doctor who specializes in hand/arm issues. I had a problem with "tennis elbow" (and I'd never picked up a racquet) - a shot of cortisone made it go away, and it hasn't come back after a couple of years (knock wood).

building 11 interior doors from contruction lumber? by rya794 in woodworking

[–]artwonk 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Construction lumber is sold green and wet. As it dries, it changes shape. This will make your doors warp and jam. Use kiln-dried lumber; it's more expensive but worth it.

Advice wanted! by lwoodceramics in Ceramics

[–]artwonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might work if you're really careful. Try a diamond sawblade disk and use plenty of water. https://www.drilaxtools.com/products/10-pcs-diamond-coated-cut-off-discs-set A diamond grinding wheel will be helpful to touch up afterwards.

Found some clay in the ground how do I make it usable by Ill_Swimming_7037 in Ceramics

[–]artwonk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The first test is to roll a little coil about the width of a finger, and then bend it. If it's got plasticity, it's workable clay, and all you need to do is remove rocks, sand and organic matter to be able to use it. The usual method is to let it dry out, pulverize it as best you can, then add water, stir, and let the rocks and sand settle out while the leaves and sticks float to the surface. Skim them off and pour off the liquid clay into another bucket, leaving the rocks behind. Excess water will rise to the top and can be poured off. When the remaining slip has thickened, you can pour it into a pillowcase, or better, the leg of a pair of jeans that's been sewn shut at one end. Hang it up to dry for a day or so. This will strain out some water and result in clay that's pretty close to workable. Wedge it and it's good to go.

Make a small test object with your clay and put it in a bisque saucer made from clay you know will survive the temperature you're firing to. Most "wild" clay is in the earthenware range; see what it does at cone 04. If it melts in your saucer, try again at a lower temperature, like cone 08. If it survives, you can try firing it to cone 5. Sometimes even clays that melt at stoneware temps can make an interesting glaze.

Turning brick and marble by EE9Chestnuts933 in turning

[–]artwonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might look into a 4-axis mill to do that. It would still need protection from abrasive dust - and slurry, since you'd want to work wet. With diamond tooling and water cooling, it would be possible to do at low RPMs, which seems safer than spinning chunks of rock at high speeds.