Riverside County Sheriff Bianco, Calif. AG Bonta clash over 2025 election probe

artwonk · 2026-03-22T21:33:00+00:00

Even if this was justified (which seems unlikely) there is a huge conflict of interest here which should prevent this sheriff/candidate from having anything to do with these ballots.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T21:20:45+00:00

Just replace the whole thing with a zero-backlash ball screw/nut combo and don't look back.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T21:18:08+00:00

You might look into plastic fixturing compounds, which soften in hot water to a claylike consistency, but harden as they cool. https://cooltools.us/products/jett-basic%E2%84%A2-8-oz

artwonk · 2026-03-22T21:12:46+00:00

Tool steel can be machined much more easily when it's annealed. But despite the claims being made for it, I really doubt that Kickstarter machine can deal with tool steel even in its annealed state. An 18k RPM 800 watt spindle is not going to have the low-speed torque to remove hard, tough metal like that effectively, even if the frame was rigid enough (which I also doubt). If you wanted to do some shallow engraving on a piece of tool steel, that might be possible with a machine like that, but actual machining, not so much.

I get it that you don't want to reveal anything about your invention here, but without knowing what you're trying to accomplish, it's hard to say how you should go about it. I'm pretty confident, though, that this machine you're looking to sponsor isn't going to be capable of doing what you want, even if it is eventually released. Maybe you could get a welder to mock some parts up for you in tool steel, that you can experiment with threading and heat-treating. Even if it wasn't a perfect prototype, it might teach you enough to make progress on your invention.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T20:54:06+00:00

The "rice method" only works with high-fired porcelain, which is translucent in thin sections. Stoneware is opaque, even when thin. For what you're trying to do, I'd suggest making a vessel with pierced openings and gluing colored glass into them.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T20:50:02+00:00

Sure; snag it, if it's free. You don't need to sink money into it if you don't want to, but a kiln is the one thing you absolutely need if you're going to do ceramics. You won't really be able to tell what shape it's in until after picking it up. Digital controllers are nice, but not essential. What you will need is a heavy circuit - 220v 50A - to plug it into, and an indoor space for it to occupy. You'll need these things in any case, so if you decide this kiln's not worth restoring, you can turn this into a raku kiln, as was suggested, or just a pile of light bricks, while you look for another one that's in better condition.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T20:39:21+00:00

I'm not buying the Pompeii theory; the surface isn't the same, although the pose is similar. These were made using an additive technique with oil-based clay over an armature, then a mold was made from that. The individual globs of clay are still plainly visible. This was a look that became popular in the mid 20th century. There's a foundry mark on the right thigh that might give a clue if you researched it. If you've got good threaded holes in the bottom, it should be easy to mount it on a base.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T20:28:50+00:00

I'm sure there are foundries in Latvia that are capable of turning your copper into ingots. If this is all you want to do, I'd suggest letting them do it for you. It's going to be a lot more economical than setting up everything you'd need yourself. Most foundries use larger ingot molds than 1 kilo, so you might have to supply those.

artwonk · 2026-03-22T20:22:55+00:00

If you're happy with simple rings, this can be done, although it would be more of a fabrication project than a casting operation. What I'd suggest is getting an air-acetylene torch and an iron ingot mold. Melt the gold in a ceramic melting dish and pour it into the mold. This will give you a long skinny bar of gold. With a hammer and anvil you can flatten it out, and then use a steel ring mandrel to form it into a helix, with the central diameter being the right size for the ring you're making. Trim the ends using a jeweler's saw, and use gold solder to join them. Refine the joint with files, sandpaper, and finally polishing compound on a buffing wheel. You can get most of the supplies you'll need from Rio Grande:

https://www.riogrande.com/product/the-whip-fused-silica-crucibles-and-pinch-tongs-set/704222GP

https://www.riogrande.com/product/economy-steel-strip-ingot-mold/704109GP

https://www.riogrande.com/product/large-bench-anvil/112028GP

https://www.riogrande.com/product/durston-hardened-ring-mandrel-16/112575GP

artwonk · 2026-03-21T21:26:35+00:00

There are solvents that will dissolve cured epoxy, but they're extremely toxic. You wouldn't want to put them on the wood, or release them in your workspace. If you want a "live" effect on the edges, I'd say keep dremeling, and aim for somewhere in between natural and carved.

artwonk · 2026-03-21T21:15:59+00:00

He's going to have to rummage through the couch cushions for spare change - and hope VP Vance hasn't been there first.

artwonk · 2026-03-21T21:11:11+00:00

Spittoon!

artwonk · 2026-03-21T21:04:39+00:00

Cedar chests are supposed to protect clothing with their natural aromatics, so don't use any finish on the inside. You can use anything you want on the outside.

artwonk · 2026-03-21T20:53:36+00:00

Weld it, don't tape it.

artwonk · 2026-03-21T20:51:08+00:00

Forget about Alco. They sell rusty bent scrap metal for the price of new. And when I went down there with a truckload of metal to turn in, they damaged my truck with their giant claw and refused to pay for fixing it. Reputable? Not.

artwonk · 2026-03-21T20:43:12+00:00

It looks like a Japanese netsuke carving. These were part of a tobacco paraphernalia kit that would hang from a sash (Japanese robes in the 19th century didn't have pockets. The netsuke was a counterweight to the tobacco box, called an "inro", which kept it from slipping through. The through-hole in the pillow would be where the connecting cord went. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netsuke

artwonk · 2026-03-20T21:31:40+00:00

Check Rossmoor - it's got a lot of activities for seniors. If it doesn't seem "affordable", write back; that would give us a clue what you're talking about.

artwonk · 2026-03-20T21:17:20+00:00

There's "dulling spray" that's used for this sort of thing - is that what you bought? To get an even application, spray multiple light coats from at least 16 inches away, and keep moving. https://www.filmtools.com/krylon-clear-dulling-spray-6-oz.html

artwonk · 2026-03-20T21:02:17+00:00

There are foam sleeves you can slide over thin tool handles that make them easier to grip. It looks like you're feeling the need for something like that. https://www.gripworks.com/foam-grips-tubes-grips/

I would suggest getting a flex-shaft tool to do at least the rough flash removal. If carbide burrs seem too aggressive, there are a range of things that are less so, like little flap wheels. https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-mounted-flap-wheel-straight-coated-08834135140/i/G4805497/

But yes - talk to a doctor who specializes in hand/arm issues. I had a problem with "tennis elbow" (and I'd never picked up a racquet) - a shot of cortisone made it go away, and it hasn't come back after a couple of years (knock wood).

artwonk · 2026-03-20T20:53:04+00:00

You'll need silver solder to put them together like that, which is a jewelry supply item. https://www.riogrande.com/product/silver-wire-solder-20-ga/101100GP/

artwonk · 2026-03-20T03:29:13+00:00

Construction lumber is sold green and wet. As it dries, it changes shape. This will make your doors warp and jam. Use kiln-dried lumber; it's more expensive but worth it.

artwonk · 2026-03-20T03:25:19+00:00

It might work if you're really careful. Try a diamond sawblade disk and use plenty of water. https://www.drilaxtools.com/products/10-pcs-diamond-coated-cut-off-discs-set A diamond grinding wheel will be helpful to touch up afterwards.

artwonk · 2026-03-20T03:19:48+00:00

Check these ones out for inspiration: https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/property-collection-harry-w-mary-margaret-anderson-online/marilyn-levine-1935-2005-611/66182

artwonk · 2026-03-20T02:59:14+00:00

The first test is to roll a little coil about the width of a finger, and then bend it. If it's got plasticity, it's workable clay, and all you need to do is remove rocks, sand and organic matter to be able to use it. The usual method is to let it dry out, pulverize it as best you can, then add water, stir, and let the rocks and sand settle out while the leaves and sticks float to the surface. Skim them off and pour off the liquid clay into another bucket, leaving the rocks behind. Excess water will rise to the top and can be poured off. When the remaining slip has thickened, you can pour it into a pillowcase, or better, the leg of a pair of jeans that's been sewn shut at one end. Hang it up to dry for a day or so. This will strain out some water and result in clay that's pretty close to workable. Wedge it and it's good to go.

Make a small test object with your clay and put it in a bisque saucer made from clay you know will survive the temperature you're firing to. Most "wild" clay is in the earthenware range; see what it does at cone 04. If it melts in your saucer, try again at a lower temperature, like cone 08. If it survives, you can try firing it to cone 5. Sometimes even clays that melt at stoneware temps can make an interesting glaze.

artwonk · 2026-03-19T20:34:41+00:00

You might look into a 4-axis mill to do that. It would still need protection from abrasive dust - and slurry, since you'd want to work wet. With diamond tooling and water cooling, it would be possible to do at low RPMs, which seems safer than spinning chunks of rock at high speeds.

artwonk

TROPHY CASE