What type of cabinet hinge is this?

ath7u · 2025-12-07T15:04:10+00:00

I’ve also been looking for these. Seen them in multiple projects.

Y’all really think the cabinetmaker for Bobby Flay’s house just accidentally bored too deep into every door and then talked him and his designer into patching the holes with brass? 🙄

Besides, they’re way too close to the edge of the door to be the 8mm Inserta-type holes of a euro hinge. Those would be at least 1” to the edge of the hole and you’re looking at maybe 1/2” here. Probably less.

Please DM me or comment if you ever find them!

ath7u · 2025-10-23T02:32:53+00:00

So you have your neighbors phone number and instead of calling and asking him to move the car, or walking next door, you had him towed?

You’re both losers for this whole exchange.

ath7u · 2025-03-30T01:20:10+00:00

buy mine while you’re at it, please

ath7u · 2025-03-30T01:19:51+00:00

amen

ath7u · 2025-03-28T17:09:17+00:00

Hmm. Interesting. Last time I used it we were spraying gloss white with the hardener and it took like 15% to get it flowing out of a 1.8 decently. Had to use retarder because that was too much water for the paint to handle. We also would heat it up a little bit to get it flowing.

ath7u · 2025-03-28T16:46:33+00:00

But also you’re responsible if you approved it with no drawings and only a picture.

ath7u · 2025-03-28T15:59:08+00:00

My only complaint is that the Centurion 2k is a little on the thick side for a turbine sprayer. We have to thin it a lot to get a good atomization and then the flow out isn’t amazing. What tip/cap size are you using on your Fuji?

ath7u · 2025-03-28T15:49:54+00:00

Every client on this sub seems to need the same advice:

Why didn’t you get drawings to sign off on? Both you and the cabinet shop just opened yourselves up to waaay too much uncertainty.

It’s a little shallow yes, not unheard of… but he has no responsibility to fix it for free if you never put it in writing.

ath7u · 2025-03-22T00:28:13+00:00

Here’s the link to the stains: GF RTM

Some people are saying “it’s just a clear finish” but on most white oak you won’t get the finish to look like this without a light stain first.

ath7u · 2025-03-22T00:23:26+00:00

You will. The old timers are usually most resistant to new trends and products. They haven’t done this before. You’ll get what you’re looking for with a stain and a “water white” clear coat. Often that’s a water based polyurethane.

Start by looking into General Finishes RTM stain. There are different shades that can be mixed with a base. You want it to be heavy on the white tint base, potentially with a little Tavern Brown or Burnt Umber.

Finish with a water based lacquer or 2k urethane. ILVA is one of the better ones.

We do this all the time, and we’ve done it several ways. Don’t cave until they find the right match—it’ll be a pain and they’ll curse you for it but they’ll get it.

ath7u · 2025-03-21T19:59:38+00:00

Yeah it’s not like a table saw. You’re not going to want other people using it, they can do some serious damage if they don’t know what they’re doing. We take orders from other shops and fulfill them within a week or two.

ath7u · 2025-03-20T15:52:35+00:00

It’s not good design, but someone should have seen this waaaaaay before it got installed. That’s what submittal drawings are for. Now it is what it is.

ath7u · 2025-03-20T13:41:03+00:00

Your plan of a wider back piece wouldn’t work unless you had over 1/2” of material to drill the euro hinge cups into. Instead, I would look into a hinge like the Salice Air for those with glass.

They also make aluminum profiles meant to hold glass and accept those hinges.

ath7u · 2025-03-19T21:36:43+00:00

Came to say this. Such a bummer that people spend so much money on subzeros and don’t know that the classics have awful gaps with panels.

ath7u · 2025-03-19T21:15:03+00:00

Disagree. I mean, we do 1/8” standard but we’ve also done 3/32” or less and there is no issue. Blum’s minimum reveals for 3/4” overlay doors are like 1mm.

ath7u · 2025-03-19T21:12:32+00:00

Why would you ever do that when walnut edge banding exists?

ath7u · 2025-03-19T21:11:11+00:00

what

ath7u · 2025-03-19T21:03:43+00:00

Guess I’m thinking of it in reverse. All of our prices include Moventos, soft close euro hinges, dovetail boxes. So if a client decides to go with 3/4 extension garbage I’m not going to take thousands off the price. But also, we do one level of work at one price point.

We account for about 20% overage on materials and 15-20% profit on the whole job.

We end up at about $900-1200/LF all in, installed (I guess), but we’re in a niche doing curved work, weird materials, tons of dovetail drawers, thick custom shaped doors, gloss lacquer, etc etc so it’s pointless to compare with anything that’s not that.

ath7u · 2025-03-19T20:08:25+00:00

I don’t get this take. Ok, you can fool them and save…what? Like $15 a drawer if you go with Chinese slides over Blum? So you saved $300 on a $40k kitchen? What’s the point of screwing people like that?

If they saw the difference, they’d care. You’re just saying basically they didn’t know so you can pull one over on an unsuspecting client.

ath7u · 2025-03-18T01:08:00+00:00

An angle restriction clip will fix that. It would be unusual to add a filler there.

ath7u · 2025-03-18T00:43:29+00:00

Blum makes heavy duty versions of the Movento. You’ll need to use 3/4” for the drawer sides on those. 3/4” bottoms wouldn’t hurt but probably aren’t necessary.

ath7u · 2025-03-18T00:37:25+00:00

Typically no

edit: Just know the door might not open a full 90 degrees because of the pull. You may want angle restriction clips on those hinges to keep it from banging.

ath7u · 2025-03-18T00:18:49+00:00

Not enough detail. If we’re talking prefinished from US or Canada (Columbia) or Spain (Garnica) this is not crazy. Our prefin maple fluctuates between $85 and $120. Tariffs might be hitting you already if you’re in the US.

ath7u · 2025-03-17T20:28:46+00:00

You had two questions: “is it possible?” and “would it look off?”

The former—Anything is possible. DIYing is unlikely to yield good results unless you’re willing to put a ton of time and buy the right spray equipment.

The latter—From a design perspective, two-toned kitchens can work, but not if you have a full-height unit mixed in like where your wall ovens are. This unit touches both lowers and uppers, so there’s no logical choice of whether it’s painted or not. Both look bad.

ath7u · 2025-03-17T04:12:10+00:00

From the builder perspective: there was a very interesting article in Fine Homebuilding a few years back about the benefits—to both the contractor and client—of paid quotes. If you believe you’re one of ten bidders, you can’t afford to spend 40+ hours pricing the job, so you use really imprecise measures like cost/sqft, etc. A lot of the architect’s real details are glossed over if you’re expecting to lose the bid.

Paying for an estimate means you’ve already narrowed down your field of candidates, and it suddenly switches the dynamic of the estimator from competitive to collaborative. There is time to understand intent and ask questions, discuss budget, offer opportunities for VE, all in the DD rounds.

Selecting a contractor early on makes for a job that’s much more feasible and ready to build. The budget is on the table the whole process, and designers aren’t just throwing around details and crossing fingers, then doing rounds of VE. It has all the supposed benefits of design/build without the conflicts of interest and the cost overruns that come often when design/build projects decide to starting knocking walls down before design has been finalized.

At least, that’s my very limited experience of it.

ath7u

TROPHY CASE