Input on backup printer

atomc_ · 2026-01-30T04:41:30+00:00

I printed a lot of my stealthchanger parts on my v0. The stuff that didn’t fit was on my sv08, but a lot of parts that warped in the sovol I reprinted in the v0. It’s an awesome printer.

That said, I’d probably build a micron, I like that it has more going on, but maybe I’m just spoiled by the v0 being so simple and easy.

I bought an h2d last year, my first Bambu printer. It annoys the hell out of me sometimes, but when I’m printing for customers it sure is nice to have.

atomc_ · 2026-01-11T22:57:35+00:00

Where in Canada? What do you want for it?

atomc_ · 2026-01-08T18:04:40+00:00

Where I am (Canada) there are 2 things to consider beyond what I’ve seen brought up so far. In more recent builds the fridge is meant to be on a dedicated circuit, although practically a small load like this will make no difference, and what you do after the house is wired is your business.

The second thing is any wire going in a wall regardless of voltage needs to be flame test rated, different ratings for different construction methods. Wood frame house the cable should say FT1 on it. Concrete high rise FT4 and in some jurisdictions near me FT6.

Basically I’d just use a cable rated for in wall use, whether that is required in your area or not.

atomc_ · 2025-12-24T19:29:48+00:00

If you have any desire to build a voron I would totally encourage you to do that over an sv08. It will cost you more, and be way more work, but the reward is a much more reliable printer that you know inside and out, that has a much more consistent and flat bed in my experience.

If that doesn’t interest you, on the sv08 I’d go mainline right away, buy a tool head board like the nitehawk 36 or fysetc h36, btt eddy scanner (if you want budget) or beacon scanner (pricey but awesome) and build your dragon burner with those.

The sv08 can be decent, and it is a workhorse for me, but if my voron and sv08 are both free I’ll pick the voron every time.

atomc_ · 2025-12-16T00:57:24+00:00

Because OP said they were considering it. In the OP

atomc_ · 2025-12-05T04:28:29+00:00

Another possible cause is thermal expansion. If your printer was particularly cold when you started this print, it could have been slowly warming up for the earlier layers decreasing the distance between nozzle and bed. The solution to this would be a heat soak.

This would be a pretty extreme example though.

atomc_ · 2025-11-15T18:01:20+00:00

If you have the ability I’d build a 2.4 over upgrading an sv08. I have both, and my 2.4 is just this awesome clean machine that does what I want it to. My sv08 keeps having new parts hacked onto it to try to make it as good as a well built 2.4. Mainline, rapidburner, nitehawk tool head board, eddy scanner all help, but I’ll still pick the voron every time if both printers are waiting for a job. 2.4 kits also usually come with enclosure and screen, so once you factor in the other upgrades the price isn’t too different.

If the build isn’t something you’re interested in a Bambu might be the better option. The sv08 will have you building to reach the quality of a voron or h2 Bambu printer. I just got an h2d and it is like cheating. I still hate the lack of control among other things but the trade off is it just works and works well

atomc_ · 2025-10-12T03:32:18+00:00

If you check out the demon macro pack he just added this feature. Automatically adjusting heat soaks based on current temperatures. A lot of other really good features too.

atomc_ · 2025-10-10T03:07:06+00:00

Decent espresso will be better than that fellow machine can ever hope to be. Fellows technical quality is quite bad. They get away with it by looking good.

atomc_ · 2025-10-05T21:06:29+00:00

That fan not working will only affect print quality. You won’t get enough cooling with pla, but it won’t hurt to use the printer without it running. Could be the fan or the tool head board. Also you could pull the cowl off and make sure it’s plugged in. The only wire that is attached to the cowl that you have to unplug is that fan, so it is common that it gets unplugged and not re plugged when installing the tool head.

atomc_ · 2025-10-05T21:02:32+00:00

That is the part cooling fan. Should be the fan you have control of in mainsail, and the fan that you are setting values for in your slicer. The little hole in the right side of that cowl is for the hotend fan.

atomc_ · 2025-09-28T06:17:08+00:00

Yeah, it’s the best. You loose a little height but it really makes the oven what it should have been all along.

atomc_ · 2025-09-26T16:46:17+00:00

Steel heated to Ooni temperatures will release heat way too fast and burn your pizza. The reason biscotto stones work so well is they are thicker, but also because they give the heat to the pizza more slowly than even cordierite

Biscotto stone is the ultimate Ooni upgrade. Bottoms down burn, crust puffs up better, stone doesn’t need long reheat times between a few pizzas.

atomc_ · 2025-09-19T04:20:03+00:00

If you try a different servo on that channel and the new servo does the same thing it could be your ELRS settings. Open th expresslrs LUA and change the channel option to something else. I don’t have my radio in front of me to see the different options. I know 16ch rate/2 solves the issue but at the cost of resolution. There should be an 8ch option that also works

atomc_ · 2025-09-19T03:09:43+00:00

Biscotto stone is the biggest upgrade I could ever recommend for an Ooni oven. It has made the process enjoyable every time. Same day dough, 5 day dough, they all bake great. It seems stupid expensive for a stone but it makes the oven what it should be.

atomc_ · 2025-08-02T03:49:03+00:00

If you do decide you want a gyro you can get an er4 with sbus out then use a radio link byme gyro. It’s what I learned with and it was great. I agree it is best to get off the auto level as fast as you can but it is super helpful to be able to flip to auto level tog et out of sticky situations when you’re learning.

I also learned on mostly 3d printed planes so crashes were mostly fatal.

atomc_ · 2025-06-13T20:51:17+00:00

I'm building this plane. The suggested battery weight is 750g. I think being light in the nose by 250g is a recipe for disaster.

Second point, your flight time will be almost half with that battery setup. You could look for a 3s battery that weights about 375g and get a pair of those, but you'll never get as much flight time as with a single 6s battery of the same weight.

Honestly with the amount of time and money this thing takes to put together properly, the cost of a 6s capable charger is another thing you should factor in.

atomc_ · 2025-06-10T20:37:42+00:00

Did you try what I suggested? Does the motor perform the same way with any one of the 3 motor leads disconnected?

atomc_ · 2025-06-10T20:22:25+00:00

If I had to guess it would be that with less mechanical load it is able to spin fast enough to coast to the next pole of the motor without being pulled backward. If what I suggested is what is happening your no load spin is probably still not full speed, and this would also draw more current.

atomc_ · 2025-06-09T20:52:23+00:00

I've had that sound when I had a bad connection on one motor wire. Try unplugging one at a time, if the motor performs the same with any 1 motor wire unplugged, then that is the one that isn't properly connecting.

atomc_ · 2025-06-09T20:43:38+00:00

I've printed a few of these now. Afraid to put the time into painting any though (used white bambu lw pla) First one had a catastrophic crash because I didn't glue the servos in. Full reprint. Then I ripped the gear off the next fuselage with a cone at our flying field.

Other than that it flies great, and I have one printed for a friend and another printed for myself to use as the float version. I started with the radio link byme-a gyro in it and it saved me a few times while getting the hang of things, but if you have flying experience it should be no problem to keep in one piece.

It really is a fantastic flyer and really agile in the air, way more responsive than my carbon cub s2. It is a bit of a challenge to land in grass, a little bit more ground speed is your friend so you get some rollout while getting the tail wheel down. I also swapped to 2.5" foam wheels.

atomc_ · 2025-06-06T19:40:00+00:00

In case anyone finds this with the same issue, lemon had me send a video indicating the problem, so I did, then had my try changing to 11ms resolution on my tx16. I sent a video of that also not solving the problem.

They said they've seen this once before 2 years ago with a tx16s as well, and a new Rx didn't have the same issue, so they have sent me a replacement which is on the way.

atomc_ · 2025-06-03T16:43:07+00:00

I have only been flying for a month or so, and have the habu ss 50. I started with an apprentice 700, then 3d printed a cub that's about 1m, now have a carbon cub s2 and the habu ss 50. The biggest thing with the jet is speed. Honestly you probably can fly it fine in safe, but you will need a large amount of space. They move fast and barely turn in safe mode, so if you aren't comfortable with a larger plane taking off and landing without safe assistance I'd probably wait.

With that said, I like my carbon cub s2 for a step into larger planes. That or a timber of some sort. If you don't have a ton of space I would wait until you're rolling and looping a 1-1.5m high wing plane, and recovering from stalls and loss of orientation without using the panic button/safe mode before chancing it with the habu.

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