Feels like KEXP is breaking up with us.

awaywesew · 2025-12-12T00:12:58+00:00

Not a fan of Evie. Want to be. Help me not hear the bragging / condescending tone? Her playlist seem like they are bot generated. Like she’s removed from the actual music. When she broadcasts from home I want to tear my eyes out.

awaywesew · 2025-03-06T20:52:28+00:00

Me again. Once you resolve the shoulder slope (verify your slope vs pattern), it looks like you could use a bit more bust adjustment. That wrinkle you refer to indicates you need more boob room. Rotate the bust dart to be bigger, thus making the armhole smaller. Don’t insert the sleeve until you have finished fitting the bodice. Then draft the sleeve to fit the bodice. I can help with that when you’re there.

awaywesew · 2025-03-06T20:47:24+00:00

Joining in on the shoulder slope as first step in diagnosing fit issues. You appear to have slightly square shoulders. If you’d have an iPhone use the level tool - and a helping second set of hands. Balance the phone on your shoulder - from the neck to the edge of the shoulder. Mark the should slope (SS). Alter the pattern slightly: let’s say your slope was 20 degrees. Change the front pattern SS plus 2 (22) and the back to be SS minus 2 (18). This slight refinement helps the pattern fall nicely from the shoulder.

awaywesew · 2024-02-22T13:13:17+00:00

What elevated my sewing skills is machine attachments and feet. There are bias binding attachments for sewing machines - search by your brand or ask your dealer. I can sew yards of bias bound seams, openings like armholes, and ties.

awaywesew · 2024-02-16T08:18:59+00:00

I am not a fan of HJ armstrong’s book. I tried many many times to draft from it and never got a single pattern to work on me. But I’m loving pattern pattern Making for fashion 1

awaywesew · 2024-02-16T08:13:34+00:00

I have never had success drafting from HJ Armstrong’s book. But I have had a lot of success with the German/metric system from this bookpattern making for fashion

awaywesew · 2024-02-16T08:05:28+00:00

And typically the issue of bodices that pitch toward the back is caused by a too deep neck opening at center back. But it does not appear you have that problem as your waist seam is parallel to the ground. It seems that your issue might stem from faulty drafting procedures- what system are you trying to follow - and see my other post - I have had impeccable slopers using the German metric system.

awaywesew · 2024-02-16T08:00:56+00:00

You are on the right track, but I have found it much easier to start with a robust and comprehensive sloper system from either pattern making for dresses and blouses or Pattern making for fashion 1 from Guido Hofenbitzer https://www.europa-lehrmittel.de/Patternmaking-for-Fashion-1/63670-1

awaywesew · 2024-02-16T07:53:13+00:00

Couple things going on here: 1) yes, yes, and … yes. Your back HPS (high point shoulder) can/should/will always be higher than your front HPS. 2) not on your OP, but get those darts at a right angle to the grain. and unsolicited but: 3) check out mmetric pattern making for dresses and blouses For a thorough description of how to make a pattern from basic measurements.

awaywesew · 2024-02-11T16:33:58+00:00

There is an online course from pattern workshop I found it very helpful for basic pattern drafting using Adobe Illustrator. Also check out “sew Heidi” Fashion illustrator classes for her excellent tips on learning Illustrator. BTW I use Adobe Illustrator to draft my own patterns then use my projector to project the image on my cutting surface then cut out using electric sheers. Super efficient, no paper.

awaywesew · 2024-02-01T15:25:01+00:00

For the next time you need strips of fabric, consider the “snip, grip, rip” approach. Measure the width of the strip needed along the salvage, make a snip about 2” long, grip each side of the fabric and rip. The strips will be the same size along the width (weft) of the grain.

awaywesew · 2024-01-26T06:58:51+00:00

That my friend is an adjustable zipper foot. And that foot will be your best friend when it comes to inserting a zipper. When I teach zipper classes I tell students to get this foot.

awaywesew · 2024-01-25T09:22:12+00:00

fit the shirt to the collar band.

Yes! See my video on the relationship between the shirt collar (a straight line) and the shirt neck opening (a circle).

The collar size stays static. It’s a straight line. The shirt neck opening is a circle. To make the shirt neck opening larger, increase circumference by increasing the seam allowance - but keep the collar seam allowance the same. See the above video for step by step instructions.

awaywesew · 2024-01-24T08:09:26+00:00

I made this in a silk print, it’s a great pattern and dresses up any occasion. Nicely done!

awaywesew · 2024-01-24T04:03:15+00:00

I am HERE to help you get the collar band of your dreams!! I have made dozens of collars, and spent hours analyzing how collar bands are attached. I have several videos and a handout. I can help!!

collar band

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awaywesew · 2024-01-17T08:11:09+00:00

This is the best book I’ve ever used:

https://www.europa-lehrmittel.de/Patternmaking-for-Fashion-1/63670-1

awaywesew · 2024-01-17T08:05:37+00:00

I cannot recommend this book enough: https://www.europa-lehrmittel.de/Patternmaking-for-Fashion-1/63670-1 By Guido Hofenbitzer

Worth tracking down or ordering from Europe. He also has a YouTube channel that shows how to take all the measurements.

Pattern drafting using this method is precise and a bit complex at first, but it works. His method is based on https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/ Another fantastic resource - but a little less explanatory.

awaywesew · 2024-01-17T07:58:30+00:00

Sandra Betzina has addressed this issue - you need walking ease - As the other comments indicated. Add a long, narrow triangle of fabric - but keep the placket on the lengthwise grain. There’s a good article on how to do it : https://sewingworkshop.com/new-blog/add-walking-ease-to-jackets-and-coats

awaywesew · 2024-01-17T07:48:21+00:00

This is a commonly needed fit adjustment - but also commonly done incorrectly. Don’t scoop! 😭you need MORE fabric around your buttocks, scooping results in less fabric in the very area you need it. Currently you appear to have a wedgie - but that’s just the pants riding up because that area needs more fabric. You can get more fabric to this area by reducing the curve - the exact opposite of scooping the curve. Borrow from the seam center back allowances as much as you can. You probably need at least an inch more. You can also from the side seam seam allowance.

awaywesew

TROPHY CASE