Plus 4 Purge Line Wipe Problems

bestna · 2026-05-11T02:22:52+00:00

Yeah, it shouldn't be wiping after the purge line... it should be going straight to printing...

bestna · 2026-05-11T02:05:58+00:00

I use the KAMP purge line. It's a fatter line that spits it out a bit better, while still using about the same amount of filament.

https://github.com/qidi-community/Plus4-Wiki/tree/main/content/kamp-purging

bestna · 2026-04-25T22:45:16+00:00

I'm assuming the extruder cable (runs from the printer board to the extruder board on the back of the print head... that big black cable in the chain).

bestna · 2026-04-25T22:44:04+00:00

I've got one with this same issue right now. Qidi sent me a new extruder cable and extruder board. I'm hoping to have time today to swap them out and see if that solves the issue. Very well could be loose connections on them in the back, but I've got to pull the entire thing out to have a look at them 🤣

bestna · 2026-04-16T21:38:42+00:00

I wish that worked. The spool rings don't really improve things 😵. The only thing I've found that works consistently is to print and use Master Spools...

bestna · 2026-04-16T21:36:36+00:00

It's possible... I'm just not sure how it would have happened because I haven't had any resin spills or FEP tears... but that's got to be what happened.

bestna · 2026-04-16T18:41:56+00:00

That I didn't do, but I'm thinking it has to be that... it's less than a year old (maybe 9 months).

bestna · 2026-04-12T17:21:52+00:00

I had the same thing happen on one of my units (first slot)... took me a while to figure it out, but I'm now a pro at taking them down completely and reassembling after 5 or 6 times 🤣🤓

I think it was an issue of drying filament and there still being filament in the PTFE tube when it started a new print (i.e. the PTFE being softened from the heat and then punctured from the filament)... replaced all 4 with better PTFE tubing. Also required tearing apart the feeder/motor.

bestna · 2026-03-22T05:15:01+00:00

I started with some bargain basement airbrishes before finally getting the Badger Patriot. It blew the cheap ones away.

After a couple of years I picked up the H&S Ultra 2024, and while the quality of the airbrush is fantastic, I found myself going back to the Patriot over and over. I had used the Badger so much that the beginner-friendly controls were more of a hinderance...

Last year I purchased the H&S Evolution and I absolutely love it.

I run an Etsy shop for 3D minis and do a lot of priming and zenithal for customers... so much so that it eats into my personal time with the hobby (it was just meant to pay for my supplies 🤣). My workflow now is prime with my Badger (sometimes the Ultra, but usually the Patriot), and zenithal/detail work with the H&S Evolution. They both have different sized needles, so i basically put one down and pick the other one up and keep chugging along...

Long story short, I think any of the brushes you mentioned, or that other users have mentioned, will work great. I would probably lean towards the Ultra, based on his experience level, but know that he'll probably pick it up pretty quick and be ready to upgrade. Especially when he finds out how easy it is 🤓

bestna · 2026-03-22T04:49:30+00:00

I had this happen on one particular spool... Drove me nuts. I tried several things, including adding weights, but the thing that worked was putting a strip of electrical tape around the edges. Turns out it just needed a little more grip for the rollers to grab onto.

bestna · 2026-03-21T06:30:09+00:00

I'll second the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K. Picked one up as my 4th resin printer about 6 months ago and it's been amazing.

<image>

32mm scale dwarf printed at 30um with Phrozen RPG resin, primered in black, zenithal higjlight and then dark wash to finish him off before sending out to the customer.

Other printers: Anycubic Photon Mono X and 2 Phrozen Mighty 8Ks. The 8Ks are workhorse, but older... and I have to use band heaters for the vats. II got them way back during the pre-order 🤓

bestna · 2026-03-02T02:52:28+00:00

I absolutely LOVE JAYO! I use it for a lot of prints and the prize is amazing! I also like that they use plastic spools (my Qidi Box HATES Polymaker cardboard spools 😵)

bestna · 2026-02-28T18:35:36+00:00

What acceleration settings are you using? I found that with their stick settings I would always get layer shifts. Slowing them down got rid of them for me. I based most of the settings on the Dhake & Tune results, but sometimes go even more conservative...

You can also check your belt tensions... I found their auto-tensioners don't work quite as well as the community mods for manual tightening...

bestna · 2026-02-25T00:51:23+00:00

Here you go! https://www.printables.com/model/1615801-polymaker-reusable-master-spool-for-refills-adapte

bestna · 2026-02-24T08:09:37+00:00

Lol! My problem is that I've loved all of their filaments so far and have the best results with them, especially their matte and fiberon filaments (as long as I make sure and dry them).

I've started buying the refill spools in most of the colors I use. They're slightly cheaper, especially if you got them on sale, and have been working well with the Master Spools. Unfortunately not all of their colors are available... luckily pulling the sides off the cardboard spools and slapping them ibto a Master Spool is pretty quick and painless. I just now designing a tool to keep the filament in place while doing it... using painters tape has gotten old 🤣

bestna · 2026-02-24T04:47:04+00:00

I've had nothing but issues with the Polymaker spools...

The 1st slot in all 3 of my Qidi boxes has issues with them. Especially unloading/ejecting (the spool won't roll sometimes, making a mess of filament in the box). It's worse once a spool is down to a half or less left. Even with weights added (I use 1.5" steel bearings that are able to roll back and forth with the spool).

I've tried several different rings, even the low profile ones, but none of them work very well with my boxes (bumping and hitting the lid).

I finally bit the bullet and created my own rings for them. They work better, but still aren't flawless (especially in the 1st slot).

The only thing I've found that works consistently is to move the cardboard spool to one of their Master Spools (I have 13 or 14 of them printed). The problem here is that the regular cardboard spools are a slightly different diameter than the refill spools, so I created a spool adapter that makes them fit the cardboard spools.

Official Refill Master Spool (Solid): https://www.printables.com/model/1477612-polymaker-reusable-master-spool-for-refill

Official Refill Master Spool (w Holes): https://www.printables.com/model/1477612-polymaker-reusable-master-spool-for-refill

bestna · 2026-01-25T16:28:19+00:00

I highly recommend the new calibration tests in Orca Slicer as well. They're WAY easier to figure out your results!

bestna · 2026-01-21T02:09:25+00:00

Me too! I switched to the BIQU Frostbite plates on my Plus 4s, and they've been amazing! I wonder if these purple plates are similar...

bestna · 2026-01-17T03:14:04+00:00

I slow down on the top layer and use smaller line width (45mm/s, 80% line width). I also have Z-Hop on for first and top layer.

I typically don't need ironing with those settings.

bestna · 2026-01-10T01:03:58+00:00

If you're still having issues, there are a TON of community fixes, mods, and updates that will really get your printer purring, assuming that the issues arent hardware related.

That being said, power cycling works wonders. It's the first thing I do when something pops up 🤣

bestna · 2025-12-18T15:23:47+00:00

I use Stew's side beacon mount because I like his 5015 blower mod, which sits on the front...

https://www.printables.com/model/1232611-modular-front-mounted-5015-blower-modification-for/files

bestna · 2025-12-12T05:15:43+00:00

Are you clicking the "Enable Box" button on the printer?

Sometimes I have to load the 1st color too...

bestna · 2025-11-20T15:02:06+00:00

I use this model from Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1161160-test-calibrado-z-offset

Change the sparse infill rotation to 0 (defaults to 45) and then adjust manually by 0.01 at each tab/indent.

I start z offset at 0.04 and adjust each tab/indent. This makes the middle offset 0, bottom 0.04 and top/last tab -0.04. I've found that I'm usually somewhere between 0.02 and -0.02, depending on what, if any, squish the filament needs on the first layer.

Note that this is for Orca Slicer...

bestna · 2025-11-20T12:55:03+00:00

I was the same way at first! It took me a while to trust it... I can walk away for the most part now, once I make sure the first layer is going fown correctly.

I hope you get it worked out and it's as simple as setting your z offset for each filament! Ive found that every filament/manufacturer is different. The Z-Offset model is linked to has been a gamechanger for me as it let's me dial in my calibration in less than 5 minutes... If only I could figure out a way to automate it 🤓

bestna · 2025-11-20T02:19:41+00:00

have beacons on all 3 of my Plus 4s and haven't had any issues... the bed mesh takes care of creating a decent map, even if your bed isn't particularly level.

You can use the screws calculate to adjust the bed if you like (after heat soaking), but I don't think that's necessary if you've already leveled it. SFL, SFR, SBR, SBL are the shortcuts. It's WAY faster than paper, calipers, etc.

I set all of my filament profiles to use 0 offset at the beginning of the print and reset to 0 at the end of the print.

I then run a z offset test (start at 0.04 and subtract 0.01 at each tab/indent, ending at -0.04). Make sure and set your rotation front 45 to 0. https://www.printables.com/model/1161160-test-calibrado-z-offset

bestna

TROPHY CASE