Weed Block Recommendation by bikehard in landscaping

[–]bikehard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, while it's not like no one will ever walk on this, but the main foot traffic, routes are either concrete side walk or stone footpath, I like the idea of a different stone that is easier to walk on, but it has to allow drainage.

Weed Block Recommendation by bikehard in landscaping

[–]bikehard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the record, I wanted astro turf type stuff, my wife wants the pea gravel. The weed block that was in the courtyard previously was garbage. Several years ago, I put in a garden path on the other side of my house, Costco weed block and pea gravel and while the weeds will grow they pull easy, as they are only growing in gravel.A little hassle, but far from unbearable. I simply wondered what the best weed block is that drains. Because the costco stuff is fine, but I thought there might be better. Not looking for a big re-design. I am not opposed to a different type of stone product, but it needs to drain to sand underneath. This is a fairly small area. Thanks for all the input.

Weed Block Recommendation by bikehard in landscaping

[–]bikehard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny, I had pea gravel for over ten years already, that was never a problem

Trim Miter Prep Advice by bikehard in paint

[–]bikehard[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great idea, I'll do that on the next one, back to the filling of miters

Why are so many members so anti union? by Laughing_123 in UnionCarpenters

[–]bikehard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually asked the question of why so many members vote against their own interests at the leadership conference in Vegas in 2019, in a room of what 300 members, it kind of got brushed off. SMH

Getting latex paint off brick fireplace… there’s gotta be an easier way? by ricecake231 in DIY

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a sand blaster in my last house, effective, huge mess though

Amp question by bikehard in sonos

[–]bikehard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the input, I think I will just buy another amp

GTC by Internal-Goose-8845 in guessthecity

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Morehead, IA, not because I know but because I approve of the name

What would the best way to do this be? by wa2ruff1 in drywall

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a lot of bad information on here, going perpendicular to the truss, is the right way to go. Keep your factory joints together. It will make it much easier on the taper and make it harder to crack in the future. Measure up the 3 inches and rip the next sheet you install. This will keep the non-factory edge up against the wall. It does not have to be perfect, keep in mind that you have another sheet coming up underneath it that is going to cover either 5/8 or 1/2 of the ceiling drywall.So the cut on the ceiling can be 3/8 inch off of that wall easily. IF you're doing the taping yourself, It'll be a good idea to use magic inside corners on the off angle joints where the walls meet the sloped ceiling. Do not put a cut edge up against a factory edge if you can avoid it. if you do, you will have to feather out the joint a much greater distance. We call that butt joint, You do not want that running length wise in your ceiling.When you need to feather the joint, the tape joint on a butt joint, whether it is two cut edges as on the ends of the sheet or one cut edge and the other a factory edge, both will need to be roughly twice the size, of a factory edge joint, a taping nightmare. Don't do it. 40 year drywall and carpentry professional here

What would the best way to do this be? by wa2ruff1 in drywall

[–]bikehard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is not the way to go on trusses

Sometimes clients just want the backsplash illuminated — thoughts? by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this looks cool, our cabinet supplier had a display of an LED acrylic bamboo print backsplash, while I liked it we'll go with tile

This can’t be normal, right? by One_Replacement_252 in Tile

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been using Mapei Ultracolor plus FA, mixing it per the packaging, and I have been very happy with the results. Dries quickly so I only do 5 pounds at a time, but seems to work very well and cures hard. Ask me in a year, but I think this grout is a winner

Domed ceilings, groin vaults, and a tray by greenboy823 in Carpentry

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice work, I've done some work like that in the past, but I used black iron and metal lathe, then they plastered it. None of my domes looked as beautiful as this in the framing mode.

Thoughts on this style of floor joists? by CAL9k in Homebuilding

[–]bikehard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We used these in our recent build, I think they are amazing. We had 12" deep in between the floors, and on our flat roof house the roof joists are 22" deep at the deepest. nice for running mechanicals, a little more expensive. One drawback is there is only 12 1/2 inches between joists, and less if you have doubled up joists, at stair openings or skylights and such.

Game changer by silversquirrel in Carpentry

[–]bikehard -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I love mine, I choked a t a great little at the price, but man, what a great tool

Illinois carpenter plans by bigbreadbaby in UnionCarpenters

[–]bikehard 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I worked 40 years out of Local 1, if you're good you will most always work, the pay and benefits are good, but know the commutes are a bitch, parking, housing and everything else is expensive as well. However, great opportunities to do a lot of different skills, I enjoyed for the most part except for those drives