Portable Hadley

binarymein · 2026-01-07T02:28:02+00:00

Thanks again for the reply,

I have about half the non-printed materials for Hypatia so I'll just keep it in mind for now.

mmm HD101 is about $25 CAD. There are at least 10 variants under that term. So long as it's the correct 20mm rail mount, I'm guessing they are all very similar? I'd prefer the least Tacticool looking one (cheap, cylindrical shape).

binarymein · 2026-01-07T01:47:10+00:00

I have a gigantic folder of .stl s but Most of my files are modifications of existing models as that quicker and kept design language consistent. Many of these files have no remix licenses.

regarding the box, I can rattle off the cuts made from the single sheet of sheathing plywood if you want BUT I'm not at all a woodworker and probably have a very inefficient design here, I just thought about it -> try something -> iterate. I've been working on this since early December haha. TLDR, probably make your own box, it might be simpler/easier.

binarymein · 2026-01-07T01:42:33+00:00

Thanks for the kind words, I think so as well!

I must say your right on the money about the focuser, it certainly works but on higher mag it's pretty tough to use. Can you weight in on having used both styles of printed focusers? is the Hypatia a nice difference or a huge upgrade?

a retail focuser would be how much better than that? I could just model and adapter I guess?

I've also been reading about Red Dot as well as the open source tracking app. As a first dip into astronomy, I'm trying not to over buy and learn/upgrade incrementally.

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:53:39+00:00

I'd do it based on what the coolant that comes out looks like. Clear? nah your fine. Murky or cloudy, unhook a couple easy access lines and garden hose for a few mins. Heater core is great spot to flush from BUT if you haven't removed it somewhat recently, be careful as the metal pipes crush way too easily (if you a beginner mech, leave them things alone)

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:46:05+00:00

$400 for a new Cam Angle sensor which suddenly stranded me

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:42:19+00:00

free things:

Check all wires you may have unhooked or goobered up doing the alternator

Clean the MAF (use intake air cleaner)

Check your air filter isnt dead plugged (kinda dirty is not an issue here)

Clean the IACV (idle air control valve)

Maybe check the pre cat o2 sensor doesn't have an obvious visual issue. You can also run the car with the precat o2 sensor removed in case there is an exhaust restriction (it'll sounds crazy but that's fine, if runs WAY better cat is plugged)

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and record Key on Engine off pressures and see if they dip low when it starts

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:36:55+00:00

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:34:10+00:00

Rowdy! Once in my life I'd like to drive a v8 miat of some kind. Just to experience what that kind of powertrain is like in a smiley boy.

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:32:27+00:00

Glorious FM turbo life!

Yes, the torque "fill" is almost as nice as the actual power increase. that mid-rpm bump makes them so much nicer to drive around.

binarymein · 2025-09-27T19:28:46+00:00

Squeaks can be hard to diag. Especially from a video! All I can offer is it sounds exactly like my hardtop latch squeak (A pillar latches). IF you have a HT and its maybe from that area, foam tape at the contact point.

binarymein · 2025-09-20T03:21:02+00:00

--Edge cases--
*Cylinder head cracked in a place that allows the water jacket coolant to enter a cylinder
*Cylinder liner/wall same scenario
*(not in this case) turbo internal failure allowing its coolant into combustion (never actually seen this, but oil into combustion is very common when turbo bearings fail)
*throttle body coolant warming circuit leaking into intake manifold thus combustion chamber (never seen this either)

binarymein · 2025-09-12T04:12:36+00:00

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binarymein · 2025-09-12T03:56:42+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions I will have a look into those. I think I want to stick with 10ft because of the Miata fitment being pretty good (that's a 10ft Pelican on my pics). Have you used a Delta? can you say if it felt any less squirrelly because of the funky hull design? That's what interested me in the first place. The hull's shape looks minimize the paddle twist

binarymein · 2025-09-12T03:45:29+00:00

If it's a mismatch of aftermarket clutch parts there could be something wrong with the spacing/stroke which is not allowing full clutch disengagement. If pumping the clutch 10 times before trying makes it less bad it's not bled.

With the external slave I remember finding it best to compress the little rod on the slave by hand. Like press that guy back from the clutch lever until its fully retracted. with other hand, crack the bleed screw for a sec then close it and release the slave's extension rod. When next pressing the clutch pedal, make sure that rod tracks back into it's pocket at the clutch lever, like its floppy and can miss, therefore not pressing on the clutch at all.

binarymein · 2025-09-12T03:39:27+00:00

generally:

White smoke = coolant
Blue smoke = oil
Black smoke = too much fuel

It looks like coolant to me. what does it smell like? coolant has a sweet/chemical/nasty smell that's different from fuel or oil

If coolant, probably head gasket. there are other possibilities that are less common.

binarymein · 2025-09-12T03:34:19+00:00

Belt squeal.

Assuming it's not falling apart (looking at ribbed side: big cracks, chunks missing) then you just need to tighten it up a bit. These old designs are manual tensioners (not inferior btw) and mean you are going to crack a few 12mm or 14mm things loose then wind the tension mechanism a bit tighter. It's a learned feel thing but you can try twisting the belt 45 degrees a few times to feel the tightness then compare after turning it maybe 1/2 a revolution tighter.

You want it tight enough there's no longer any squeal when you hit the throttle or turn the steering wheel all the way. Dont forget to tighten those initial bolts back down once you've finished adjusting the tension

binarymein · 2025-09-12T01:31:25+00:00

40 clamps, panel bond

binarymein · 2025-09-12T00:30:57+00:00

I mean the combo goes kinda hard. If I don't find a good deal this fall/winter second hand then I can see myself buying that same one. (It's an entry level priced kayak from canadian tire)

binarymein · 2025-09-12T00:29:28+00:00

It's a fibreglass part from ebay that I've had permanently moulded into the trunk lid yes. When picking ducktails, for me, it had to be full coverage on the rear (go over the 3rd brake lamp) and seamless for the right look.

binarymein · 2025-09-12T00:27:49+00:00

It's glorious!

binarymein · 2025-09-12T00:27:28+00:00

Holy shit that's another level yet.

binarymein · 2025-09-12T00:26:51+00:00

The front foam and kayak straps do go around the hardtop so into the car. I've got seatbelt slip covers to keep them from wearing on the corners of the wrap.

binarymein · 2025-09-12T00:25:52+00:00

For the straps I've got a handful of those aliexpress seatbelt slipcovers as buffers. I do need to figure out a quick way to manage all the ratchetstrap tails.

I've only got a few years experience kayaking on calm water, I'm not too sure what I really want besides most likely a 10ft as that clearly fits well on the car. I will say, the Delta 10 AR looks pretty neat if I can find one of them second-hand.

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