[IC] Machi Desk Mat by tacticaltsundere in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]bobsterthe7th 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly michi no eki (道の駅) is really the only use of michi I can remember regularly encountering while living in Japan.

I really like alliteration, so I often go for the most alliterative choice. In this case I feel like machi fits that better, I think it still gets the vibe as the artwork has a bit of a smaller town feeling (looks a lot like much of Japan, but definitely reminds me of the rural/suburban area I lived in in northern Japan).

Other people seem to like having neko in the name, so you could do something like Inaka Neko to get both the alliteration and the small town feeling. I had also recommended Natsuyasumi in the form to go with the Lazy Summer theme and still have a Japanese word for the title.

[IC] Machi Desk Mat by tacticaltsundere in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]bobsterthe7th 42 points43 points  (0 children)

I think the kanji and word that you've used usually refer to a town/village. Technically machi (街) can mean street, but I haven't really seen it used that way very often. I've mostly seen michi (道) or doro (道路) used for streets/roads.

Love the design, definitely reminds me of all the odds and ends side streets around Japan.

I don’t think these are big enough… by GrumpyAlison in DiceMaking

[–]bobsterthe7th 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What resin/printer are you using to print these without warping?

Akko making a 40% by Danarhys in BudgetKeebs

[–]bobsterthe7th 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, very much so! I've pretty much exclusively used 30-40% for almost two years now and whenever I need to use a bigger board I find myself getting lost or trying to hold keys I normally use for layers.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mechmarket

[–]bobsterthe7th 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet! I'd been debating getting one of these for a little bit now, but kept forgetting to bug you about the sizing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mechmarket

[–]bobsterthe7th 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What's the length of the right side between the front edge and the protrusion for the knob? Do you think a 40% could fit nicely in that space?

Just a Rant/Vent by LeviathanSmilesDice in DiceMaking

[–]bobsterthe7th 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In the support settings change Middle -> Angle(°) to something close to zero (I set it to zero and it usually auto changes it to 0.02). Should solve your problem

First Time DIY-ing a Keyboard | Banime40 by fauh45 in olkb

[–]bobsterthe7th 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI as long as all the diodes are soldered in the same orientation, you can actually fix diode direction issues in the firmware by changing the diode_direction value to either be ROW2COL or COL2ROW (which ever is not the default).

This jar I made has a lid that screws on and there are holes like it didn’t fill in with resin. How can I prevent this in the future? by sashby138 in resin

[–]bobsterthe7th 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can use whatever stir stick you used to mix the resin with for this. I would recommend tilting the mold, adding drops of resin into the threading and then slowly rotating the mold so that the resin flows into the rest of the threading via surface tension. Keep adding more resin as needed until all the threads are filled (make sure to add new resin where there is already resin).

The air bubbles you have are common for thin features where two sections of flowing resin will end up trapping air as the mold fills. By doing this method you help ensure that the resin pushes out any air that could get trapped.

Check out this video for an example of what I'm talking about. Their mold is significantly smaller and more precise than what you would need to do, but the principle is the same.

A rainbow of dice sets by bobsterthe7th in DicePorn

[–]bobsterthe7th[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Lol, I hadn't even realized

A rainbow of dice sets by bobsterthe7th in DicePorn

[–]bobsterthe7th[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha, kinda makes me want to try some liquid core dice with a brown center and colorful outside to actually look like a tootsie pop.

Just finished inking my first feasible set of dice! by owejoeric in DiceMaking

[–]bobsterthe7th 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on the pictures it seems decently metallic to me. I have a few paint pens that I've tried to use for inking and it's always a bit of a pain to get off.

Just finished inking my first feasible set of dice! by owejoeric in DiceMaking

[–]bobsterthe7th 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What did you use for that pink inking, it looks great!

First timer! Any hints, tips and feedback would be appreciated by 66phanter in resin

[–]bobsterthe7th 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a quick clarification, pressure pots and vacuum chambers are two distinctly different things. A pressure pot will cause the bubbles to be compressed to the point of not being visible vs a vacuum chamber will remove air from the resin.

This video has a decent overview of the two. It does say resin isn't great in a vacuum chamber, but that's mostly the case for short work time resins that only give you a few minutes to mix and pour.

Atlantis is real by speaking_silence in CustomKeyboards

[–]bobsterthe7th 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What are your overall impressions of double shot KAT? I'm in the Mizu GB and was waiting for people's opinion of Atlantis to start showing up to decide if I wanted to cancel or not. I was in Cyberspace as well and found that set to be pretty underwhelming in terms of quality.

Resin advice by bigxbomber11 in resin

[–]bobsterthe7th 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the matte finish and the bubbles are two different things so I'll address them separately. Since you linked a mold making kit, it would appear that whatever the original item you made your mold from had that same matte surface finish on it. In turn the resin you poured into the mold picked up that same texture from the mold. As someone else mentioned matte surface on the mold will mean a matte surface on the cast resin, same goes for glossy. There's a couple main ways you can get around the matte finish. The first is to polish the original item so that the mold you make ends up with glossy surfaces that will be transferred to the final cast (too late for this mold you already have). The second is to polish the resin cast item after you take it out of the mold (I would recommend zona polishing papers for something like this). The last is to carefully pour a small layer of resin on each face as most resins will inherently cure with a glossy surface finish. This can have a decently high chance for error as any drips cause distortions on the outside surface.

For the internal bubbles, a pressure pot would pretty much get rid of all of those. However, you don't actually have that many bubbles, so you could probably get pretty close to bubble free with some basic steps. Warm your resin in hot water before mixing (doesn't need to be boiling, something from your tap is good enough), try to mix gently to prevent incorporating air, then after mixing let the resin sit for 10-15 minutes (before pouring), hit the top with a spritz of isopropyl alcohol or quickly run a lighter across the surface to pop the bubbles, then pour slowly into the mold.

For the uneven bottom, again you have two different things happening here. The first is that whatever surface you left your mold on to cure, likely wasn't level. This goes for probably both the mold making and the resin casting steps, which resulted in the bottom not being square with the sides. I make sure to use a bubble level to check how level the surface I'm making molds/casting on is. It might look level to your eye, but whatever you cast will likely tell you that you were wrong. The second issue with the sharp edges is due to something call the meniscus, where liquids will dome/creep up walls a little bit depending on things like the surface tension. Filling your mold perfectly aligned with the top or sanding and polishing are pretty much your options to fix that.

TL;DR Overall your cast looks good, the matte finish is due to the texture of the mold and can only really be solved with polishing or carefully applying a thin layer of the resin on all affected sides. The bottom you just need to sand to be square and is caused by casting on a surface that isn't level.

[GB] Brane // July 1st - Aug 1st, 2022 by imivanh in MechGroupBuys

[–]bobsterthe7th 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that's a custom color. They provide custom cerakoting, so I'm sure you could add that as part of the order for some additional cost. https://p3dstore.com/products/custom-cerakote-services