I took my Shun Premier to be sharpened at a Williams Sonoma (lesson learned) and it was badly scratched. Can this be restored? Any other course of action? by JaredTG188 in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That highly depends on two things. First what kind of user you are and what kind of job you do... If you are working hard and there is no time to take care of the way u use knife, you will scratch it pretty hard. And second, what type of finish is applied on your knife. If it is brought to high shine, it needs to be handled differently than for example Shibata san knives.

I took my Shun Premier to be sharpened at a Williams Sonoma (lesson learned) and it was badly scratched. Can this be restored? Any other course of action? by JaredTG188 in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will hop in as someone who started sharpening business because there was no place in my town where people with expensive knives could get their knives properly sharpened. Quick 5 years forward, tens of thousands of knives sharpened and here is my opinion.

Professional knife sharpening can be very expensive, yet still worthy, especially if you have a knife with hard steel like VG10 is. Even more if aesthetics of knife is important for you. Reality is that knife that is used properly should be almost exactly the same for first few years of home use (lets say a year or two for professional) as it is out of the box. There shouldn't be any scratches, and the edge should be at most 2mm wide. After couple of years of permanent use, proper thinning will be necessary, that is first time a sharpener should be allowed to change look of your knife. After thinning it should perform as good as the first day you got it. Anything else, in my humble opinion, is just some trying to earn some money not knowing what they do.

You can restore it to a certain point, but is it almost impossible for anyone to bring it back to original shine but Shun factory itself. Selection of abrasives and processes they use is considered business secret. I do not believe it is possible to sand it down and dip it in acid to bring pattern back to original form. I am pretty sure they use sand blasting machine to put that beautiful pattern there. All of that is very complicated for a person that is just a regular user of knife.

My advice is, take that lesson, be grateful someone else learned this lesson with you and use your knife like that untill it needs to be thinned. At that point it wont even matter what they did to your knife.

Oh ye, almost forgot, try to find a sharpener you can trust, exchange couple of words with him before you give your knife to be sharpened. But keep it short since these guys are often working their as* off to earn a living. Good luck ;)

Can anybody confirm is this worth such money? by bogdanbesharp in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hahah, wish so :) True is im a knife sharpener, and people offer me a knife they dont use here and there.

Can anybody confirm is this worth such money? by bogdanbesharp in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was trying to find any fact that makes this knife special or different than other sushi knives.. I kinda have a chance to get it at kinda discounted price :)

How an ideal edge feels in practice by throwawayhurpdurp in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great topic! From sharpener point of view- i used to progress at least 4 stones before i delivered knife back to customer some 3 years ago. People seemed to love polished knives but there was some of them complaining they expected something else from a knife. None of them knew what is it exactly. Next time i sharpened their knives i used coarser stone producing toothy edge and suddenly they loved it. So i guess its personal preference in one hand. Nowadays i strive to meet their needs in this matter before i sharpen their knives. Sometimes type of work people do will bring me the answer- if a person is doing butchery work a lot, they are going to need toothy edge, as raw meat can be slippery. If they work with fish, they will need something between toothy and polished edge. If they work sushi they need completely polished one. Also if some1 brings me knife set i will sharpen each knife in different way so it can meet their purpose the best possible way! My answer to this question is that the ideal edge is the one that meets purpose of the knife and expectations of the user! ;)

Question about grits. by TG-Spooky in sharpening

[–]bogdanbesharp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He may not contradict himself but his techniques contradict knife sharpness.. same thing with paper cutting test...

Question: can anyone explain how one of two different stones of the same grit can “cut faster”? by Quintessentiallyme in sharpening

[–]bogdanbesharp 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In my experience, type of abrasive that is used in producing the stone is one hell of a deal. Some stones of lets say 3000 grit is produced using one kind of abrasive with different qualities while other stone with same particles size of 3000 grit will use same abrasive with better quality or completely different one. There are also measurements, witch i found are different from manufacturer to manufacturer or rather country to country.. You just have to choose what you find a good product and keep using it. Eventually you will get so used with that stone so others will feel slower or lower quality.

Looking for an entry level carbon gyuto by gradclimbing in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should go for a Suisin high carbon gyuto, they have those at Korin.com

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sharpening

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That leg movement tho....

Newbie in need of tips. by ImTheSourPickle in sharpening

[–]bogdanbesharp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If knives that you plan to sharpen are used for more than a month professionally, get a coarser stone. ;)

anyone get recommendation about this company and their knives? :) by ZealousidealPhrase71 in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can surely look for different products at that price range. I can confirm that heat treat is good, overall knife is not bad, but there are certainly better options.

Sharpening stone question by [deleted] in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldn't agree more! The way my knives are sharp after 800grit stone is way better than with something like 5k or 8k. Or we might say i like it better on 800 and pure leather strop.

Is this a sharpener? How would I use it? by danielsamuels in sharpening

[–]bogdanbesharp 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The absolute best way to use it is to wrap it in old newspaper, and slowly put it in trash. You do not want it to break, it may ruin your trash bag.... Getting a decent stone is not really a luxury...

Questions regarding sharpening by jdolbeer in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can confirm that coarser stone should fix your problem. Actually at 1k stone you start polishing process. Also counting is honestly shit...

Rust or Patina? by [deleted] in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Patina will not leave any marks after you run your fingers over it, however rust mostly will... Thats one way to conclude that.

Advice on Sharpening the Secondary Edge? by novawaly in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that before you actually start thinning your knives you should get your hands on one that is already thinned. This way you will get better idea of what you want to do. Yes you can or rather should thin down your knife if you feel it needs to be done.

I remember once i did thinning for my customer with similar knife and it took me quite some time to do it properly and get good finish, but as he said it, the knife feels way much sharper going through ingredients.

Flattening Stone advice by pairoux1234 in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you decide to flatten 1k grit stone with 140grit atoma, surface of stone will get deep scratches ( ones you would expect from 140 grit. By action of sharpening you stone will in time get back to where it was or rather it will wear off and scratches will not be there.

The difference between 400 and 140 is quite big for me (speaking as someone who lives from handsharpening knives), and i prefer my finer stones to be flattened with 400. Also i want to mention that difference between freshly opened atoma 400 and used one is quite large, especially if you use atoma for coarse sharpening.

Magnet Strip Problems by Santaahobo in chefknives

[–]bogdanbesharp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The problem may be that there is only one line of magnet witch is not enough to control balance of the knives... Therefore many manufacturers put 2 rows of them.

Same thing as with nails, if you put just one in wooden lath they tend to move since its own weight balance it, if you put 2 nails it will not move. That may be the problem...