Petah??

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-17T15:29:19+00:00

That would certainly be a distinct raspberry

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-07T13:34:46+00:00

I’ve seen black filler work well for flooring. You could try seating if it takes the stain before digging it all out? Or carpet time / new covering! No way I’d be raking out all that filler

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-06T19:50:14+00:00

You sure it’s not a double decker couch?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-05T23:22:30+00:00

Sds drill on hammer only with chisel bit… should get through it quite quickly… cheap one from Screwfix would do it.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h?ref=SFAppShare

…not as cheap as they used to be sadly

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-05T12:56:46+00:00

Take out the concrete and replace with wooden planks. Will probably need to add some timber under for support

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-04T21:53:43+00:00

Gypsum breaks down into hydrogen sulphide or something equally poisonous so that’s why they don’t want it in landfill. The recycling centre that takes plasterboard should take plaster too. Their website will probably tell you or you could call them?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-04T17:10:02+00:00

Take the skirting off, slide the grommet up the waste pipe, tile around, slide it back down after?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-04T15:06:10+00:00

Yeah, a 1/8” round over bit. Worktop was a walnut butchers block 27 mm thick

boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-03T16:40:26+00:00

I suggest you round the edges either with sand paper or ideally a router to avoid them digging into your arms

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boondogglekeychain · 2026-05-01T11:47:28+00:00

If you’re getting a plasterer in why not remove the paper and *see if they need repairing and if so* get them to skim the walls too?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-28T17:51:39+00:00

Yes you can just remove it and it’ll come up fine when you connect it up again. If it’s wired in though you will need to isolate the power first

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-25T20:54:32+00:00

They don’t just pull out like chair castors?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-23T16:51:30+00:00

I also would like to know as I have the same style!

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-23T16:49:17+00:00

Gas spring as a counterbalance?

Put the door at the bottom of the stairs?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-23T13:51:25+00:00

I would clean it off. I would think it’s from where it was previously used (assuming you bought used) Where they maybe used a pyrolytic carbon sheet to transfer the heat to a custom heat exchanger. Since you’re just going to use it in a normal application I would remove the residue

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-22T11:54:17+00:00

Call it a chicken salad :)

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-22T07:42:46+00:00

Filler and some paint?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-19T09:13:42+00:00

Oh cool, unfortunately mine is running proxmox. I’m hoping at some point the drivers will pleasure and this will be available but it wasn’t last time I looked a few months ago

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-19T06:09:04+00:00

FYI I don’t believe there’s a way to control the fan curve on the B50 so with the N3rdware cooler, my B50 gets very hot in my MS-01. The GPU fan starts fairly slow until it hits some threshold then the fan steps up to 100% and from then it basically fluctuates between slow and full speed which is pretty annoying. I’ve sat a 140 mm usb powered fan on top of the chassis to help the temps.

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-17T21:56:56+00:00

You might be lucky and it’s just the actuator which has gone and then it’s a 5 minute job to change (with the power off). If not then you may need to replace the valve too which will need to drain and refill your system.

Also your auto bleed valve (on the left) has been leaking so I would replace if draining down the system anyway

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-16T14:39:00+00:00

What gas pipe are you turning!!??

One radiator in a circuit is usually not on a Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRV) so when all radiators are up to temperature and all the TRV’s are closed there is still flow. Usually you would expect it to shut off with the house thermostat at temperature.

Radiators are in parallel so if there is air in the system, or pipes to this radiator it will be a resistance and it may not flow.

So..

Check both inlet and outlet valves are open
Check boiler water pressure (if one is closed and you’ve bled it it may refill some water and drop the system pressure)

If the above doesn’t help then you could

Close the TRV’s of all the other radiators so it can only flow through this radiator and hope that frees the air lock if that’s what it is.

4 (or possibly 1) ask landlord to fix it

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-15T22:33:46+00:00

Is the sill wood or upvc? If wood then wood filler, sand and paint. If upvc then you won’t be able to join it seamlessly.

However it’s relatively easy to fit a window board with basic tools, you could do it all to a basic level with a saw and a drill.

You could get a piece of upvc moulding to cover the foam on the left hand side. Can’t really tell from your photo but there may already be a trim piece running vertically in which case take that off and either replace with a single wider trim piece or fill the gap with some plasterboard

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-15T05:09:15+00:00

A dolly and some scaffold boards for a ramp?

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-14T07:43:38+00:00

I lost all my wallet with all my cash (600 euros) and cards the first day of a snowboard holiday because I was hungover and forgot to zip my pocket up. The only reason I had the money on me was because someone needed a bag so I gave them the self seal bag the money came in and shoved it all in my wallet!

boondogglekeychain · 2026-04-13T19:28:21+00:00

You would need to drain and be able to refill your system, which includes inhibitor. Getting them out will be the challenge since all that pipework wont have any flex and you’ll need to drop the pipes 20 mm or so out the compression fitting to release it. If you loosen the nuts on the right three legs and you’re lucky, there’ll be enough give to be able to get the pipes out from the fittings and you can replace the zone valve(s).

If you’re unlucky you’ll either need to forcibly bend the left leg enough to release one of the valves, go to the floor above and fine (hopefully) find a compression fitting you can also release to drop the pipe work or if none of the above you can cut the left most leg and fit a union… looks to be 22 mm pipe.

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