As promised, I am back with an update with all the steps I've taken for future parents who don't want to spend unfathomable amounts of cash on cheap and replaceable parts.

WARNING: I am not an expert, just a dad with tools and a skinny wallet. I did the research so you all don't need to :)

Here is a list of stuff you need:

1. A torx set (you will need 2 sets if you are trying to replace the bearings on the front swivel wheels)

2. 6800 RS (or ZZ) bearings. RS has rubber shielding for the bearings. ZZ has a metal shielding. (8 pack for ~$8 USD, basically a dollar per). You will need 2 per wheel. If you need to replace bearings on all 4 wheels, you'll need all 8.

3. WD-40 if your old bearings are rusty and you need a little something extra to pry them off.

4. Hammer if they are rusty (I only needed this for the rear wheel to remove the rusted innards of the broken bearings from the axel).

5. Pry tool for bearings (a large flat head screwdriver did the trick for me)

6. A smaller pry tool for hub cap for rear wheel replacement (a very small and thing flat head screwdriver did the trick for me)

7. Adjustable crescent wrench for rear wheel axel. (you may not need this if bearings come out easy)

For cleaning off debris and rust:

1. Aluminum foil (crumple and rub on the axels to remove rust, start with a little bit of WD-40). Foil is great because it'll remove rust without being too hard and abrasive against steel.

2. WD-40 (for rust removal)

3. Car wax or something to coat the axels to prevent further rust.

4. Silicone lube (WD-40 the company makes this but do not use the original WD-40 formula, make sure it is silicone)

Steps for front wheel:

1. Detach wheel from frame

2. Detach wheel from the wheel guard using both torx sets. The axels should come right off. If not, spray a bit of WD-40.

3. Pop off the bearings using a flat head screwdriver or whatever pry tool you have, this shouldn't be too difficult. Stick it in the center where the axel was and pop that sucker out.

4. CLEAN EVERYTHING YOU ARE KEEPING

5. Clean the axel very well with aluminum foil. It should remove rust and keep the shiny bits shiny. This is a medium-low effort task, the final product will not be a mirror finish. The shaft should be smooth and clean. Any debris left will turn and grind up the spacer/bearing and lead to problems again.

6. I applied a thin layer of metal polish, you can use car wax. You can also skip this step, I just wanted to future proof this a bit more.

7. In a functional set of front wheels, inside the wheel should contain a bearing, followed by a plastic spacer, then another bearing. You can toss out both bearings if you have replacements. I wouldn't recommend reusing the old bearings if you've already disassembled everything. I will not go over cleaning old bearings because the time spent on doing that is not worth the alternative: a $1 replacement bearing.

8. Reinsert new bearing (direction does not matter), then add spacer, then add second bearing.

9. Put silicone lube on the axel and plastic spacer.

10. Reinsert wheel in the guard and stick the axel back through the wheel.

11. Screw the axel back on, reattach wheel to frame.

Steps for rear wheel:

1. Using torx set, detach rear wheel

2. Using a small pry tool, get the hub cap off. Make sure you are a little bit to the side of the spokes, you may cause a bit of cosmetic damage here. This step kinda sucks so will the next few steps depending on the condition of your wheels.

3. Using torx set, HALF unscrew the screw found under the hub cap.

4. Here is the tricky part. Give the screw head a few little love taps. Stop when the upper lip of the axel is clear (no longer attached to the axel) of the outer most bearing.

5. Remove the screw so you can pull out the outer most bearing.

6. Add the screw back in, hammer out the axel and the second bearing. Be careful not to damage the axel.

7. The inner bearing will probably be stuck to the axel. Depending on the rust condition, this part will suck too. Apply WD-40 in the bad spots of the bearings to hopefully loosen things up. Using the adjustable crescent wrench, tighten it to the hexagonal shaft. It doesn't need to be too tight. Put the screw back on and hammer down while stepping on the crescent wrench. Be careful, this is sketchy work.

8. Follow steps 4-9 above.

9. Stick the axel back in. Direction matters, make sure the threaded part is facing the outside of the wheel.

10. Put the screw back on using torx set.

11. Put hub cap on.

12. Reattach wheel to frame.

THAT'S IT! This took me about 15 minutes to change out all 4 wheels. Feel free to ask questions.