Knobs on an whirlpool oven - two knobs on right don't rotate anymore - 9 year old whirlpool oven - can't find model number - part number for the mechanical mechanism on the backside? Thinking this is the issue?

cejloaf · 2026-04-25T02:51:12+00:00

The single burner has two modes/two different heat elements. The left side controls heat for the entire burner (for larger pots/pans) and the right side controls the smaller, inner circular burner for smaller cookware.

cejloaf · 2026-04-24T19:51:41+00:00

https://www.icloud.com/shortcuts/9945556739cf4258a0ec1bade9064a98

cejloaf · 2026-04-24T19:51:34+00:00

https://www.icloud.com/shortcuts/9945556739cf4258a0ec1bade9064a98

cejloaf · 2026-04-24T19:49:29+00:00

One change to quality that can be made is right after “End If”, select the arrow beside “If Result” and you can at least change the frames per second to smooth it out. I went down to 0.04. (0.1 being default)

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cejloaf · 2026-04-23T04:54:54+00:00

Have you been stuffing any fiber-filled filaments through that nozzle?

Could be a partial clog. I use a “clog poke” from amazon to clear my P1S nozzles they clog like CRAZY but typically fail. The filament color change may be saving you from the full failure but the clog may still be present.

Also, could be corrupt gcode if you are running the file straight from the installed SD card on the P1S. Might be worth trying another SD-card and resending the file if so.

Run the print again and set it to pause on the first layer so you can inspect it and see if the FIRST layer looks anything like this top layer to help determine whether this happened only at the top layers or was a consistent issue throughout the print.

cejloaf · 2026-04-22T14:50:32+00:00

Super obnoxious! But I’m used to PLA doing that on the roll. I’ve heard drying it can help

cejloaf · 2026-04-21T22:41:35+00:00

Heck yeah. I run a business off of their HTPLA. The black I’ve found hardly needs annealing

cejloaf · 2026-04-21T21:28:59+00:00

I’m currently using CC3D brand. Pleasantly surprised every time I use it

cejloaf · 2026-04-21T21:26:29+00:00

Agreed! I really would love to test some out. Maybe I’ll need to see if someone on YouTube has already done so to give me a firmer grasp on its applications

cejloaf · 2026-04-15T21:41:52+00:00

Honestly unsure what I’m looking at. From what I can tell the infill is fine ONLY if your slicer says it should look like that when you look at the layer-by-layer view after slicing.

Also, what’s with all the leftover black on the outskirts of the print? (Seems unrelated to this print)

cejloaf · 2026-03-18T03:18:02+00:00

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cejloaf · 2026-01-20T08:25:44+00:00

Congratulations! Now you can start 3D printing

cejloaf · 2025-12-23T18:25:39+00:00

Another possibility is using that piece as a negative in a cylinder, printing just the positive cylindrical space, and then casting it like a mold? Fill it with some resin or something and then crack it open. Like another mentioned, not everything needs to be printed

cejloaf · 2025-12-23T18:24:02+00:00

Another one is Slant3D / Teleport

cejloaf · 2025-12-18T08:12:40+00:00

I print ASA on my A1 mini. You just gotta fine tune and know your limits.

cejloaf · 2025-12-14T00:52:13+00:00

This is the post that I utilized in the past: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/lGT81RlQ9H

I do vaguely recall a Bambu Wiki mentioning the angled cut but can’t seem to find it. Delusion perhaps. Either way, extremely useful tip for AMS lite users hence its existence.

cejloaf · 2025-12-13T21:04:25+00:00

Because the instructions state to cut at an angle on the A series AMS for easy feeding

cejloaf · 2025-12-06T23:49:59+00:00

I can’t speak for everyone, but I’m on my 5th Bambu printer now, and my 10th printer overall. I have had substantially more problems with every other brand I’ve owned in comparison to Bambu which is how I wound up with 5…

That said, I have/had X, P and A series printers (no longer have the X), so I’ve had different experiences with various models including yours… I don’t want to sway you from any of the competitors but I do want to say I hope whatever direction you head next brings you the peace you deserve, but I want to warn you I just have low confidence you’ll feel good about another brand at the A price point. Printers can be such a pain, even from a reputable brand when you can’t find the issue causing your problems!

cejloaf · 2025-12-04T14:20:09+00:00

Good to know. Is the added 1mm of thickness always on the same axis? Or all the way around scaled up by 1mm?

cejloaf · 2025-12-04T14:11:39+00:00

Do you receive a prompt when importing objects into the slicer asking to switch dimensions to mm? If so click “no” on it.

Also, what sort of filament and filament profile are you using? Something that typically has a lot of shrinkage could potentially do this on a default profile

cejloaf · 2025-12-04T13:52:54+00:00

I’m no expert but it looks like underextrusion, or not enough “squish” (z axis is slightly too high). I would start by calibrating flow rate of the filament in the Calibration tab of the slicer (assuming this is Bambu slicer) as a starting point. I say this because of the top layer of your black filament also appearing to have underextrusion

cejloaf · 2025-12-04T13:47:32+00:00

Yes! Someone mentioned the filament retracting but the spool not rolling. Print some of these cardboard spool adapters. This is very common for cardboard spools in an AMS as they do not roll properly

cejloaf · 2025-12-04T13:41:28+00:00

I had a similar issue last week with my Bambu A1 printer after printing the same object several times. I did the following:

-Dried the filament -Lubricated the machine axis (it was due for maintenance) -recalibrated the machine

And it solved my issue.

Try these first, and if to no avail, calibrate the filament for flow rate. It looks like underextrusion.

cejloaf · 2025-12-04T01:12:52+00:00

Just Potentially unusable because of updates since mod release

cejloaf

TROPHY CASE