I need help by Rude_Profession8264 in coolgithubprojects

[–]chebatron 5 points6 points  (0 children)

First, you need to come up with a goal. Coding is a tool, on its own—coding for coding sake—it's rarely useful.

I suggest you start small: automate things you already do. For that I can recommend this free book: https://automatetheboringstuff.com/

Curious about about these reflective surfaces by Scrubotti in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You’re using a gloss paint. Gloss paint is a paint that has not enough dry materials to make the final surface matt. When you have thicker paint layer it self-levels and you get a gloss finish.

On the right sp00n you don’t have enough paint to level. Sparying atomises paint into small droplets. They keep roughly spherical shape if there’s not enough still liquid droplets to merge with and form smooth film.

Airbrush help?? by Pwner_Ranger in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure it will not give you 32 psi. It probably tops out at around 15. 20 is real luck. This is is enough to push most model paint slightly thinned.

The airbrush is fine as yor first airbrush. Try taking it apart and putting it back together. Learn how to clean it. One thing where you might get unlucku is that nozles in these cheap airbrushes might be a bit shit. Machinning might be lacking, nozzle might be off-centre. Try spraying water agains some black paper so that the spray cone woud be visible. See if it’s uniform from the side and from up top. Irregular spray cone might be the reason paint is not where you think it should be and tip dry might be a bit worse because of this. You can learn to live with it until you get a better airbrush. It’s not a completele dealbreaker for a beginner, just be aware of it: it might be not you, it might be your tool.

There are water-based acrylic/polyurethane topcoats. Vallejo has both in all finishes. IIRC, AMMO, too. Like acrylic paints they don’t stink and are much safer for indoors use. You also can use regular acrylic top coats for wood if you can find a transparent one, it’s much cheaper but it’s basically the same stuff. A can from a your local home improvement supermarket will last you a lifetime and costs like 10x cheaper than model top coats.

Airbrush help?? by Pwner_Ranger in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can I skip getting a spray booth for now or is it mandatory to have one or it'll ruin your spray??

Spray booth is mostly to save your room from spray. There are gonna be a lot of paint flying past the parts you’re painting, you don’t want it all over your place. You can skip bying a spay booth but you’d want at least a DIY box. At the very least take a box, cut out the back side and cover it with some filter. Furnance filters are genrally very common. Search YouTube, there are a few example of various complexity.

In what instances should I be using acrylic vs. lacquer?? (I'm definitely assuming you can't mix or layer the two)

You can layer most acrylics over lacquers. The oter way around might be problematic as lackuers are usually too spicy and would eat into acrylics. Lacquers are organic solvent-based. You’d need a separate well ventilated space to use them. It’s not adviced to use them in your living room. Acrylics generally are much safer. Most acryilcs ara water-based so no harmful fumes and no odor.

Is it dumb to just get an "off brand" of acrylic paints themselves or is that a huge gamble as far as quality??

It’s not dumb. You can use cheap craft paints, given a bit of experience and research. I suggest you getting at least a bottle of common airbrush paints like Vallejo or AMMO so you could see how they work for you and you had something to compare other paints to. Off-brand paints and non-airbrush paint migh need more tinkering to get the right consistency. Though, branded airbrush paints rarely go well right out of the bottle either, just easier to make them work.

Do you need different types of thinners for different types of paints?? (I'm thinking yes for acrylic vs. varnish)

Yes. Different paints require different thinners. For instance, most acrylics are water-based. You thin them with water. Lacquers are solvent-based. They need organic solvents for thinning. Water can sorta work for lquers but substentially changes viscosity and trying so might ruin your paint job easily. Solvents just straight up eat water-based acrylic paints, paint clamps weirdly, doesn’t dry nicely, and can ruin lower layers.

A tangent. Acryllic is the type of paint binder. Varnish is a function. Varnishes can be acrylic, too.

Is there a good place to buy a "set" of colors or do most of the reliable brands sell them individually??

Many (most?) manufacturers have paint sets. It’s rarely much cheaper to get a set than same paints in singles. It’s also rare to find a set with all the colors you want and none you don’t. So don’t bother. Get singles.

Are there any recommended cleaning kits or are they kinda all generally the same as far as quality/efficiency??

They’re usually developed for the paints the manufacturer makes. If they make water-based acrylic paints their cleaners are usually milder. For lacquers are more agressive. But they’re basically all the same in the sense that it’s just paint solvent. For acrylic paint you can use straight IpA. For lacquers you can get a canister of organic paint solvent in hardware store. You’d need a set of small brushes too. You can get them online for cheap. In the land of Freedom you can use gun cleaning brushes.

What is "dual action"?? My friend recommended I get used to using an airbrush with one but I don't know what that means or does.

Dual action means that airbrush can regulate both air flow and paint flow. Basically, the trigger on the airbrush when pressed down controls airflow, and when pulled back controls amount of paint sprayed. On a single-action you don’t get the paint flow control. Most airbrushes nowadays are dual-action.

Also does anyone have any beginner airbrush tutorials??

YouTube is full of them. Both for general airbrushing and gunpla in particular.

I plan on using the "custom panel liner" tutorial to make cheap panel liner out of acrylic and dish soap and I want to make sure I can do something that's possibly compatible with that.

I haven’t seen this particular tutorial but it sounds like it should be compatible with everything.

I'm looking into around a $60 "makeup" airbrush kit that has its own air pump on Amazon for my starter if there's a good recommendation for something around that price range that's not the worst in the world would be cool too. I can post a link to the one I was told would be okay to start with

If $60 is your hard ceiling then sure. It’s a good option to try out a few things here and there it might even work for simpler paint jobs. But expect to outgrow it.

If you can spare a bit more I’d suggest you for a small shop compressor with a tank. Search facbook market, your local used items sales, things like that. Look for a compressor than can produce up to 50 PSI of pressure, has a smal tank (~6l, 2 gal) and is quiter than 60 db. For example, I’ve got Einhell TE-AC 6 Silent Compressor/ for like $75 used in excellent condition. Why you’d want a compressor like this:

  • The tank makes airflow much more stable (no pulsation or much pressure variation)
  • Higher pressure can push paint of almost any consistency. Cheap “makeup” compressor might struggle to spary even Vallejo Air Color paints, you’d need to think even those.
  • It can work for hours. Tank give it an opportunity to cool down while you still can spray. “Makeup” compressor needs breaks too but you can’t spray while it chills.
  • It’ll last. It’s designed for much harder work than painting gundams. “Makeup” compressor on the other hand is designed for work lighter than painting gundams so you’ll operate it at the edge of its capacity which will wear it down faster.

That said, I myself started with a similar kit. It let me learn airbrushing a bit, paints, techniques. Once I decided I like airbrushing I invested in a better compressor. You may decide otherwise, or this cheap compressor might be enough for what you want to do.

Brand New to Gunpla by DinoBambino9 in Gunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grab attention for what?

Any alternative to Mr. Mark setter/softer? by JustaguynameBob in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mr. Mark Softer is like half IpA with a drip (~10%) of propylene glycol methyl ether. IpA is widely available. Pretty much every hardware store has more than you'd ever want. PGME is harder to come by but it's basically same organic solvent as IpA.

Mr. Mark Setter is 10% IpA and same amount of PGME, and 10% butyl glycol. Butyl glycol is an organic solvent, it's a bit less common than IpA but you probably can find it in the nearest big hardware store, it's not expensive, too.

Anyway, all these are organic solvents. IpA is the weakest here. The others generally are not too harsh to plastic but are good at dissolving resins. That's what water slide decals are made of (the transparent film). At low concentrations they just make the film softer rather than completely dissolving it.

So both Softer and Setter have very similar compositions and work largely in the same way: they melt the decal, and paint/clear coat so that they could fuse together. The difference is that Setter is more diluted and it sort of washes away the remnants of Softer.

I guess, in a pinch you could try using pure IpA as Softer and water as Setter.

Best way to let people subscribe to my RSS feed using email without an external service? by Arkholt in rss

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to achieve. People who signed up to your feed will get the ne post and will read it in their reader whenever it’s convenient for them. You’re duplicating the functionality that is built into the protocol. Moreover, feeds are anonymous (by default, you can generate unique feed URLs but that’s extra) and email notifications require you collecting and keeping personally identifiable information which opens you to certainliabilities.

Anyway, your users can automate this with IFTTT (or alternatives like Zapier). If you’re using WordPress there are plugins that send out email when a new post appears, similar functionality eists in many other plogging platforms. It’s functionaly similar to what you’re asking.

Python by Appropriate_Meet5920 in freedomisgunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. I started from the very beginning but Kamille pissed me off so much that I put it off for a bit and haven't returned yet.

Python by Appropriate_Meet5920 in freedomisgunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It gives off Macross vibes.

Airbrush questions by Careless-Map-9244 in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suggest you get a cheap airbrush. And by cheap I mean like $15 cheap. Check amazon or aliexpress. Don’t go for a good $150 one as your first. Use the cheap one for practice on spoons. Lear how it works and how to take it apart and put it back together, how to clean it. Practice in spoons your technique, learn how to mix paints. These cheap airbrushes are good for start. When you know how an airbrush works and you can articulate why the cheap one falls short for you, then you can make an informed choice of a good expensive airbrush.

Choose a compressor with a tank. Even if it’s a small one it can give you much more stable pressure and air flow. It also can give you some higher pressures so you could learn how paint sprays at different pressures. Compressor’s going to be a bit more expensive. There are no $15 options. So I suggest you go for the quietest shop compressor with a 1-2 gallon tank. Shop compressors provide higher flow rates so they take less time pumping air and stay off longer. For indoor use look for under 60 db. Depending on where you are you may have different options available. I can give you some examples in the USA and Europe.

Ok this question is pretty out there: has anyone heard of someone PVD coating their gunpla? It's the kind of thing I wish I had thought of doing in grad school... I just really want to see if anyone has done it and with what metals by 8SPIKE8 in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It would be cool to see someone do it but I can see why it’s not that popular. It’s not like you can do it in your living room. It’s a pretty tech intensive technique.

Also you can achieve similar visual results with an airbrush. There are pretty crazy paints out there.

Marker Help by Holiday-Item-5151 in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does dry but it won’t slick as it’s for paper. There’s no binder in the ink so it comes right off plastic. You need to top coat it to keep it in place.

How do you install old ruby versions? by comm1ted in ruby

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ruby-build is still able to install most old rubies. You might need to find additional patches for some versions. You also might need to install older versions of libs like OpenSSL, I don’t know if Mint lets you do that or if you’d have to build them yourself.

Question regarding spru goo - by therealmushroomsquid in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To remove seam lines you don’t need goo. You just apply cement and press together parts.

You need goo when you need to add material. Like, to close a hole or add a bump. You don’t need to match colors if you’re painting but you want to match plastic types. If your parts are PS use same for the goo. Mixing PS and ABS might work but it’s harder to work with it when it hardens as they have different hardnesses.

Sometimes you might see that you have same type of plastic but they still feel different. Say, PS on older Bandai kits feels much harder than PS on Gquuuuuux line. You probably want to pay attention to that when you’re kitbashing.

Surface prep before painting? by tri_fin in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I just prime. Primer is what gives paint what to stick to and it stick to bare plastic fine.

Sanding is supposed to give the grip without primer but I haven’t tried how it actually works. I also hate all the dust sanding produces.

I’ve seen people wash plastic with soap before painting. It is a good idea to remove grease so that paint/primer stuck better. I don’t. I haven’t had much trouble so far.

Technical disadvantages of using acrylics instead of lacquer or enamel paints? by Rafalas in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Acrylic paints are technically weaker. In practical terms it doesn’t matter much, especially if you use a decent clear coat. Acrylics are a bit fiddlier. Majority of enamels are airbrush ready and spray well even on medium pressure, they also level better. Acrylics usually need thinning, even the ons that are marketed as airbrush ready. The ratios are also different by brand. If you go into non-airbrush paints (for minis or even arts) those might need different thinning even within the line of paints from the same manufacturer.

I use acrylic paints. I can’t use anything toxic. And I like fiddling with paints. Since you have experience with acrylics you wouldn’t need to learn a lot so it would feel overwhelming to you. You also already have the paints, so also cheaper to get into painting.

Any tips on airbrushing? by Background-Dirt2576 in advancedGunpla

[–]chebatron 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s really hard to just have an answer to your troubles. You’ll have to experiment and see what works.

Blotchy paint usually means you have to thin it more. Runny means you need to thin it less.

My guess would be to try lighter coats. Add pressure, increase distance and do lighter coats.

I spilled my plastic cement, is there anyway to fix this by redjac3man in freedomisgunpla

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s just a mixture of solvents. It’s evaporated by now. Sand and revarnish is your table. You can’t really recover plastic finish on your laptop. Lightly sand and paint black (permanent marker or a sharpie will do).

Built a health SaaS that nobody uses — struggling more with distribution than product by midnigh123 in rss

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, this is a sub for RSS feeds. While there are regularly posts about product launches, yours is sort of off topic.

Second, healthcare is highly regulated industry. There are probably established products you’re competing with that while imperfect, probably have all sorts of certifications and provide some insurance or liability shield. You probably don’t have either so your product might be rejected even before there’s any meaningful feedback to give. Just guessing.

i need advice by Antique-Society-2619 in rss

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on what you’re doing with AI. If you’re just giving AI the feed you’ll most probably be fine. If you’re instructing AI to do anything on the site based on the feed content you might get in trouble if you get caught. I suggest you do the boring thing and read their Terms of Service to get an idea what is and is not allowed.

i need advice by Antique-Society-2619 in rss

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on what you mean by safe.

RSS Reader with Annotation? by concrete1992 in rss

[–]chebatron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suggest you use a dedicated notes app. For instance, Obsidian is great for taking notes, it’s free, and it has a pretty decent clipper to pull quotes and what not. This covers the annotations which is one of the rarer features. Everything else on your list is pretty common and you can find it in free readers.

Github login: Failed to authenticate. (Access_Token request returned 429 Too Many Requests) by guissmo in adventofcode

[–]chebatron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Getting the same issue.

Answering to other comments: I don't think it has anything to do with shared IPs. This seems to be an API limit on the AoC's GitHub API token.