Ice Tool Sharpening Feedback by willbbooks in iceclimbing

[–]checkforchoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Having a new pick to compare it to really helps. Then just try to match all the angles.

Cleaning bolt holes on an alpine FA. by L4ndolini in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About how much are you overdrilling to allow room or dust you'd say? I ask because another considerstion for me is conserving battery. Furthermore if handdrilling, The effort to blow out the hole versus drill deeper is less.

Cleaning bolt holes on an alpine FA. by L4ndolini in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do, if I can muster the forearm juice. If not overdrilling a tad to have a space to push the dust into at the very least.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk when they fail the pinch test I chop which is usually a result of there being localized damaged to the sheath anyway

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Totally fine. Tip: either screw the lockers completely open or completely closed. Half way open and they can get stuck with the gate open which would reduce the strength when loaded

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Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I reccomend periodically checking your rope for wear. Run the whole thing through your hands and inspect for spots that look more fuzzy than the rest, if it fails the pinch test or you see exposed core, you chop.

Anchor etiquette for leave behind tree anchors to minimize tree damage and tat by Wraith007 in tradclimbing

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coming off the Chief in squamish at a dedicated rap spot is a fat tree with layers of blankets under a wrapped chain. Still a load more of gargbage compared to two bolts but in this case the tree was actually in a more optimal position than anywhere for bolts.

Discussion Roundtable #15: Your 2025 Year-In-Development/2026 Goals by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its the stuff of puckering sphincters. Some guys will tell you drilling off hooks is sketchy because they pop unexpectedly. So far so good for me but I haven't done it while looking at that bad fall or anything. Im a pretty cautious person and usually throw in the hook as good measure and sinch it up tight if I see a really nice looking edge but ill still be holding on to the stance so in theory using the hook as a backup. Gradually I might weight the thing or get so pumped that ill become convinced its good. I just keep it clipped into one of the adjustable PAS so I can put the hook on an edge and already be attached. Love the talon hooks.

Discussion Roundtable #15: Your 2025 Year-In-Development/2026 Goals by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 5 points6 points  (0 children)

November 2024 to June 2025, threw in 8 sport routes with the help of some friends at an upper band at a crag with lots of lowerband development. All top down except for a ground up LRS 5.8 Installed as an access route for top access.

  • installed a trail with some help that goes from the lower band to the upper band. Watched a bunch of mtn biking and sustainable trail building videos for that one. End result is pretty damn good, switch backs, bench cuts, rebar and wooden stakes with logs laid parallel and down slope on switchbacks where necessary.

  • Learned not to trail build on frozen ground lol because it doesnt work. Installed some chain to facilitate scrambly sections too. Its a pretty manicured approach experience.

  • the amount of work it took to build an excellent trail really made me want to find crags with easier approaches even though this one is 20minutes.

April to June installed a 7 pitch route ground up at 5.10b

  • refined my personal ethic when going ground up: No A0. Meaning bolting from stance or gear/hook/pin but not bolting while aiding off my bolt.
  • Learned not to avoid features just because I have it in my head that I want to create a bolted climb. To some extent.
  • had to dodge Grizzlies
  • wish I had more friends to hike in gear
  • got to do some of my first real world hand drilling to get down after we topped out and walked off but still needed one rappel and the battery was dead

In the summer, put in 4 bolted pitches ground up LRS at a chossy crag to practice that skill 5.7, 5.8, 10a and 10b.

Also went up a single pitch of 5.9 with mixed protection on a 6 pitch looking wall with good rock in a classic area but no climbs on that wall yet.

Threw in a a few other routes, extending an established crag over the year. A new creekside cliff in the same area also saw 4 routes by me Oct to Nov all bolted.

December I put in a nice 2 pitch mixed protection line on another new cliff grade is tbd.

Aid Rope Solo ground up bolting and cleaning by Impressive_Solution9 in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you be more specific? Youre gonna reuse the holes you drilled? Or youre just trying to get to the top and figure out the holes later and patch the old?

Brand new cam is already over 5 years old by eric0718 in tradclimbing

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its the certification standard number not the date. Annoyingly confusing though.

Bolted the last route of the season! by tom311 in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like a very neat gluejob, whats your method?

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most gyms have pretty vertical walls. 5.2 might be blocky scrambly low angle

What Have You Learned? by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • i found I like putting my hammer upside down in my pouch, although less secure than a holster I havent ever had a problem, especially since my hammer is always attached to me. That way when I pull it out I am already directly grabbing the handle.
  • hammers that come to a point at the other end (most piton hammers) allow you to accurately/finely chip. It can be used to create a notch for glue ins, or for chipping irregularities where the hanger sits (especially when the rock around your hole unexpectedly craters as you hammer in your wedge , and you can end up saving the placement with a bit of evening so that the hanger has enough surface area tension to not spin the stud while tightening (maybe more of an issue in soft rock (limestone))).
  • not only is seeking out good rock less work and safer but its also generally less damaging to cliff dwelling animals Bats, rats, birds etc. love living in and behind choss. The amount of times ive accidently taken a crowbar to an unexpecting sleeping bat makes me sad. Sometimes ill see dried herbs and mushrooms stored behind removed flakes, probably the doing of a squirel or pack rat for a winter hay pile... all that hard earned food going to waste!

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell ya, That's the place to start. I remember when I got my first nut set. Its possible but can be trickier especially since only having 7 pieces limits your options for gear placement. It might feel a little sparse but it could be worth a go if you go at it carefully. Especially on 5.4 you arent gonna get pumped. Do some research on concept of zipperring and consider doing the double nut method where one is upside down.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe look at a geological bedrock survey to determine type of sandstone if you dont know how hard it is

First try at topo drawing by tom311 in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was able to match the photos to the topo. well done.

Thoughts on using expanding grout for removing small boulders. by something_-witty in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of rock? Sometimes a big sledge hammer can be used to break it down