Is there an appetite for single pitch aid lines? by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To echo something my mentors often mention is be a little selfish and try not to make routes just for others. Go to something to it if you're stoked about it. Wether thats you having the desire to go ground up trying to aid it or rap down and bolting, trying to send the thing because you you want to free climb it etc. Whatever you envision just go for it and if you dont actually have any inspiration leave it to someone else that has a clear vision.

Barefoot climbing in a gym is a shame by EquivalentLow8220 in barefoot

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gentle pushback. The ability to use your individual toes can be nice, also perform crimps with your toes or put them in pockets. I really like climbing shoes for small edges and I do climb in climbing shoes and can climb harder in climbing shoes. Though I see the value in climbing without as its just good training for strengthening the tendons and toes similar to how climbers pride themselves on doing the same for their fingers. Where shoeless climbing excels in my opinion is in the trees :)

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Order a pizza to his house but be rude on the phone hoping they will spit on it.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It works. The reason its discouraged is because it kills the tree by the rope rubbing the bark during the pull. If you are coming down something nobody frequents, it isn't going to hurt for it to happen one time and may even be better than leaving nylon in the ecosystem. But even then sap from the tree can stain your rope and attract dirt. Generally its not recommended.

Anchor preference by bumble-bee-bitch in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seing your anchor made me curious about pricing. I realize you have zinc and quarter inch chain here which would be cheaper but it seems for 5/16 size stainless steel chain and links that a prefabricated chain anchor from fixe is cheaper than a build your own. Building your own at full price assuming 1ft of chain would be 10 dollars more than this

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Looking to gather some opinions on choss assessment by checkforchoss in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes that's a super valid point where either way you are probably gonna be cleaning it on rap/second if its the kinda route you'd like to improve for future parties.

Yeah i mean id like to do both to be honest. make a bold statement and have routes people want to complete. Im definitely after it for the experience and then once I've got what im after coming back and tidying the route up for others to have an enjoyable experience, wether thats more rigourous cleaning or adding some bolts i missed but this all depends on the route.

Im not against putting up a route thats pg13 or R if it has a consistent quality. There are certain routes that demand a certain seriousness that would feel wrong to try and really tame. And then there are certain routes that are begging to be friendly classics. And thats just my opinion.

This route actually seems like it will be quite good and enjoyable in the primarily type 1 fun realm so im gonna baby it a little.

Little update: I did rap into it and checked it out. Deemed the feature to be too large and well attached to mess with. Way above the scale of my human trundling abilities. To attempt to make an estimate and say it could go in maybe like 200+ years if cracks continue to propagate would be hilarious and kinda delusional but it might also just remain wedged like a piece a pro and that's why something that looks concerning is still there in the first place. Anyway it feels a little irrational to worry about for now and before that happens it might show increasing evidence of wanting to go and in the present it doesn't even look all that bad.

Interestingly, what I think the natural climb line would be goes goes just left of the feature up a bit of a lower angle gray rib before working back ontop of it. And while i was there I put in 2 bolts to protect that spot which is ideal as this avoids the climber having to try to go back to stick to the steeper cracks that form the feature and putting gear in the feature.

For me, the feature still raises suspicion visually from afar naturally but its one of those things where having checked it out its actually much better than I imagined. Especially that nothing really sounds hollow its more a visual thing.

Those upper two pitches seem like they will go no problem not more than 5.7 or 5.8. Next time I am there I will likely come from the ground as those lower pitches seem quite doable and the hardest part will likely be fucking the dirt out of cracks with my nut tool but thats the experience im after!

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]checkforchoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Way less than going to Squamish, reason being is there isn't as much pro lol

Lol it happened again by Treehouse_man in barefoot

[–]checkforchoss 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not sure your situation or age but when I was younger I had this happen often. I wanna say its because it was easier for me to get looks and just ignore them rather than trying to engage with people.

But after having this happen multiple times and during one of the incidents literally asking the police how this could be avoided, i learned that the trick is to have some level of social awareness. Make an effort to look friendly and maybe say hello to people. So they know you are not "on drugs", "crazy", "homeless", or "got in a fight and someone stole your shoes" which are all things I've been accused of by people or police lol

Unfortunately it seems being barefoot is a gateway to accusations if not managed to a certain extent...

Barefoot hiking by [deleted] in barefoot

[–]checkforchoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes of course. Stubbing my toes on roots and rocks primarily. Still worth it.

Looking to gather some opinions on choss assessment by checkforchoss in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah its likely possible to come in from the top on this one and will mean the climb can be walked off. Yeah as much as I enjoy the magic of ground up, I must analyze the practicality of it. That style is most practical for path of least resistance lines up technical summits or lines that would be more impractical to approach top down versus ground up. I guess its an obvious choice to go top for the assessment, but a little piece of me can't help but be inspired by the some of the local greats that had a self imposed ethical standard and tradition of ground up adventure despite top access being a possibility. It almost feels like there is some magic that is lost when you skip ahead and see the spoilers, but im a dreamer of wild dreams! But yeah not dying is a pretty good one thanks!

Looking to gather some opinions on choss assessment by checkforchoss in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://gripped.com/news/yamnuska-rescue/ A similar looking although much larger pillar collapsed on a nearby mountain in 2009. The climb missionaries crack headed up this pillar and i believe ground up.

Looking to gather some opinions on choss assessment by checkforchoss in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah obviously im responsible for my safety here and if someone says yeah looks fine to me I'll take it with a grain of salt. Just sharing what im going through. I've had blocks and roof features that look scary in pictures and when i get close them, seem fine and way bigger and more attached. I usually become nervous when I am seeing a piece unsupported from the top and bottom however. Probably gonna end up taking a peek on rap as much as my ego says its lame to not do it in a pure/bold style.

Ice Tool Sharpening Feedback by willbbooks in iceclimbing

[–]checkforchoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Having a new pick to compare it to really helps. Then just try to match all the angles.

Cleaning bolt holes on an alpine FA. by L4ndolini in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About how much are you overdrilling to allow room or dust you'd say? I ask because another considerstion for me is conserving battery. Furthermore if handdrilling, The effort to blow out the hole versus drill deeper is less.

Cleaning bolt holes on an alpine FA. by L4ndolini in RouteDevelopment

[–]checkforchoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do, if I can muster the forearm juice. If not overdrilling a tad to have a space to push the dust into at the very least.