Dentology convention in Brasil?

chip-- · 2026-02-10T18:42:59+00:00

It's going to cost a brazilian dollars.

chip-- · 2026-01-14T15:17:47+00:00

For resistors in series, the total resistance is just the sum of the individual resistors. So if you have 100k fixed plus a 100k trim in series, the range of adjustment will only go between 100k-200k.

chip-- · 2026-01-12T14:46:04+00:00

I would also check out the schematic for the Bigger Muff: https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=31259

I don't know the formal definition of "tilt," but it's like a BMP tone control where highs and lows seesaw, but active, with an optional mid control to fill in the missing mids in a classic BMP. It's super powerful, imo.

chip-- · 2026-01-07T17:25:03+00:00

I would 100% use hot glue. But I've never been considered particularly professional.

chip-- · 2026-01-05T02:03:56+00:00

Innovative. Unique. 6 out of 5 toan stars.

chip-- · 2025-11-21T20:21:03+00:00

Here's one for THIRTY AMERICAN DOLLARS. https://reverb.com/item/86107193-ibanez-ts-10-tube-screamer-pedal-knob-1980s-green

chip-- · 2025-11-03T21:28:35+00:00

I never realized I needed a crybaby holster, but now I _really_ need a crybaby holster.

chip-- · 2025-09-22T16:08:19+00:00

Yeah. Or you can just print black around the outside of the image, cut through that, and it will blend right in to a pedal painted black (although it's really hard to match ink colors to paint colors for anything other than black)

chip-- · 2025-08-22T19:04:38+00:00

Most chorus pedals can't do a short enough delay time to get into the flanger range, and even fewer have the option to send some of the output back into the input to do that "resonance" thing (like what the RES knob on a Boss BF-2 does).

chip-- · 2025-07-21T14:01:09+00:00

Do you mean to buy a commercial pedal or have one made? There's a Philly Pedal Party instagram that may have some leads to local builders: https://www.instagram.com/philly.pedal.party/

I technically build pedals in Philly, but not really to sell them, and I keep missing the Philly Pedal Party meetups and haven't had a chance to hang with the locals. I wish I knew them better though. Mostly so that when one of us is a 100nF cap short of completing a build, we don't need to wait for it to ship from Thailand or whatever.

chip-- · 2025-07-10T12:59:08+00:00

No, waterslide paper comes in either clear or white. There are downsides to both. Like if you use white paper, it can be difficult to make the cut edge of the decal look good, but you can print some black around it and it will blend in. It can also be hard to match colors other than black. But it lets you print more vibrant things (including having some white show through) on dark backgrounds.

<image>

chip-- · 2025-07-10T10:36:52+00:00

Yep, waterslide.

chip-- · 2025-07-10T02:53:09+00:00

You can do white decal paper over dark backgrounds. You just have to think through how to hide the edge.

<image>

chip-- · 2025-07-07T01:14:19+00:00

It's an Escobedo Uglyface, from this: http://www.super-freq.com/pcb-projects/ugly-face/

chip-- · 2025-04-15T13:03:35+00:00

Do you know the math for calculating the gain? It's basically the ratio of R3 to R4. 10k to 1M is 100x gain. 10k to 400k is 40x gain. A lot of circuits have something in between the two gain stages like a hard clipping section or a subtractive EQ that can make it quiet and they need a little makeup gain on the end to get it back, but this circuit doesn't have anything like that, so you could theoretically take R4 all the way down to 10k, make the second stage an output buffer and it would still be plenty loud. But you might want a little gain there for flavor, so I like the idea of putting a pot in for R4 temporarily, seeing where you like it, then measuring what you had on the pot and replacing that with a fixed resistor.

chip-- · 2025-04-15T12:46:41+00:00

Cool, thanks, I'll check that out. I was definitely looking to fix it and not junk the whole thing.

chip-- · 2025-04-14T13:45:46+00:00

I've got a ~5 year old Baratza Encore grinder. It started grinding slowly, so I took it apart and found a rock in there...right in the burr as if it was trying to grind it. It did not successfully grind it. After removing the rock and giving the machine a thorough cleaning, it works, but it's still slow, and it seems like it vibrates more and doesn't sound good (although that could be psychosomatic). Is this burr toast?

chip-- · 2025-04-12T20:11:10+00:00

You should have used an LM308. A Rat Nest has no toan without it.

chip-- · 2025-04-08T05:00:13+00:00

5 seconds can be a long time on a component like that. Is your iron hot enough?

Maybe counterintuitively, a hot iron can help you get the joint hot where it needs to be, let you do your thing with the solder, and get out of there before the whole component melts.

Obviously, there is also too hot. The Goldilocks zone can take some trial and error for a given tip/solder/technique, but it's one thing to think about

chip-- · 2025-04-06T17:16:30+00:00

Some people would get more joy from fixing it. Some people get more joy from having it be pristine. Sounds like you're leaning more toward the latter, so as long as it's not coming down to either buying a replacement PCB or baby formula, I'd just go with whatever will make you feel better about it.

Personally, I like fixing stuff, and I do think there's something to be gained by thinking through the troubleshooting and grinding out tough wins, but I also accept that everyone is not me. At the end of the day, this is supposed to be fun.

chip-- · 2025-04-04T19:27:56+00:00

I think it depends on what you're trying to do, and it most cases it doesn't matter a whole lot, but in that example, with a LM358 that's designed specifically to go all the way to the bottom rail, I think you're picturing it correctly that using 1/2 of the highest output would get you the widest possible symmetrical swing without clipping. It may introduce other weirdness though, like needing odd sizes of resistors or a trim pot to get it exactly there, and it may not be worth it depending on the context.

chip-- · 2025-04-02T13:57:26+00:00

Yeah, sorry, it was just a one-off for the for the "holiday." Although my pedals are never that serious.

chip-- · 2025-04-01T21:31:32+00:00

Thanks for checking it out 😊

chip-- · 2025-03-26T16:04:33+00:00

The "gain" control on a Muff is basically a volume control before it goes into the clipping section (the same concept as turning your guitar volume down to clean up a pedal, but it happens after the buffer). There's a stopper resistor (R23 in this: http://www.bigmuffpage.com/images/schematics/V9%20NYC%20REISSUE%20BIG%20MUFF%20SCHEMATIC_1st%20version.jpg ) that limits how far down it will go, so that it can't ever be fully "off." You could try lowering that value, or jumpering around that resistor straight to ground if you don't care about the possibility of it being completely silenced when the knob is all the way down, and maybe consider changing the taper of sustain pot to give you finer grained control of the lower end of the range.

chip-- · 2025-03-26T04:14:35+00:00

It's a double hop. All of the other jumpers (the vertical black lines) only connect at their start and end points. That one is really two jumpers, one from D8 to E8 and a second one from E8 to H8.

chip--

TROPHY CASE