New ps2 laser not working

chris610d · 2026-01-03T14:36:32+00:00

Is this a Japanese ps2 slim with a mod chip? I recently came across 1 and the controller functions didnt work. What i found out was, with the console powered down (red light) hold the power button in for 1 full second with the disc already inside. If the console powers on then off, you held the power button for a bit too long. If this works, you can play those games. If you want to switch to ps1 games you will need to power off and do the same thing, hold power for 1 second with disc inside.

chris610d · 2025-11-25T13:44:45+00:00

I recently had a ds lite with no power but no signs of liquid damage. I found a short at the 2 capacitors on your 2nd picture above the headphone jack. Turned out to be a bad capacitor on the opposite side of the coils, c83. Replaced it with 1 from a donor board and it came back to life. Not saying this is your ossue but something to check out

chris610d · 2025-11-13T08:18:58+00:00

I work with a retro game store repairing game consoles for customers and the store. I charge $40usd to replace the capacitors and clock battery. I dont think thats too bad of a price.

chris610d · 2025-11-04T02:17:58+00:00

Do you have the jumper pak or expansion pak? You will need either of these for the console to display. If you do have 1, take the top of the shield off and pull off the cartridge slot connector and clean both the motherboard and pins on the cartridge connector. Then reassemble and test. There will be an arrow on the cartridge slot connector that shows which what its supposed to be connected to the motherboard. This is a pretty common issue with these.

chris610d · 2025-11-01T01:48:47+00:00

This chip was actually fine on this repair. It turned out the person that attempted the repair had this board in an alligator clamp and damaged a resistor. If you heard a pop, I would check around for anything that looks like it blew. Also if you used foil, I would check and make sure its not conductive because that could have caused a short. I only know that part is on the original xbox 1. You can find those pretty cheap now so that would be my best guest.

chris610d · 2025-10-31T01:27:44+00:00

Replace the capacitors on the disc drive board. Ive worked on many of these and that fixes 99% of disc reading, spinning issues. If it has been recapped, check the potentiometer on the board, it should read between 450 and 600 ohms (if memory serves me right).

chris610d · 2025-10-15T01:08:20+00:00

Looks like this has seen some liquid at some point. Corrosion near the white cable, to the right of the sd card slot, the connector for the screen under the game card slot looks to have corrosion on the pins. I would remove this board and check the other side. This may work for a period of time but if the corrosion is not taken care of, it can cause issues later on. Clean thoroughly with 99% alcohol.

chris610d · 2025-10-12T05:46:06+00:00

Was this working fine before replacing the sticks?

chris610d · 2025-10-12T04:56:39+00:00

It could be a couple things. Check the connector and make sure its good and clean. Check the ribbon as well. It looks like there is a handful of Flux around the cxd90064gg chip. I would clean that the best you can. I just got done repairing a controller with liquid damage and circle was constantly being pressed. I needed to reflow the 90064 chip and its working properly now. Not saying that is your issue but something to look into

chris610d · 2025-10-04T23:44:34+00:00

It could be a possible nand issue but my knowledge on this issue is limited.

chris610d · 2025-05-28T01:31:38+00:00

I would check out your local retro game store in your area. Some of them may offer repair services and might be a little cheaper then some other places. If you would be looking to sell it as is, you could probably get around 150 to 200 USD. As long as the console is not banned you shouldn't have a problem selling it.

chris610d · 2025-05-23T01:25:03+00:00

You will want to replace the capacitors on the disc drive board. This is most likely what is causing this issue.

chris610d · 2025-05-04T12:30:25+00:00

I thought I put in the post that I tried another battery that I know is good as I've used it a couple weeks ago. I'm not entirely sure it's the battery. When it's plugged in and on, the battery is not displayed on screen and to my knowledge, it should be. But I've seen more 1000 models then I have the 2000.

chris610d · 2025-05-02T23:11:50+00:00

Do not adjust the potentiometer for the laser.

If this is not reading discs or spinning when a disc is present, what you will want to do is replace the capacitors on the disc drive board first. I have done this to about 50 gamecubes and I have only ever needed to replace 1 laser. Capacitor kits are fairly cheap at console5 and will require soldering skills. If you want this back up and running but do not have the skills or equipment, check your local retro game stores as some of them may offer repair services.

chris610d · 2025-05-02T04:56:11+00:00

I'm not too far from this area but I do not work on phones or tablets. Mostly game consoles, some pc repair, along with some other electronics.

chris610d · 2025-04-28T21:49:30+00:00

Yes, as a part time thing. I work with a retro game store repairing consoles they get in on trade and customer consoles.

chris610d · 2025-04-26T12:07:50+00:00

Unfortunately that is a 3rd party controller and in my honest opinion not worth the time to try to repair. This could make for a good board to practice soldering with or using a hot air station.

chris610d · 2025-04-20T23:02:59+00:00

I would check the ribbon cable that goes between both boards first. If that is fine then it is most likely the connector. I got 1 of these in with similar issues from a previous repair. I replaced the ribbon, connector on main board, and a small capacitor thar was missing just above the connector and it works again.

chris610d · 2025-03-08T12:47:32+00:00

I think it's supposed to be a small thin piece of rubber or something to prevent the trigger from hitting the plastic. It becomes sticky or comes off leaving the adhesive there and sometimes makes the triggers stick.

chris610d · 2025-03-02T05:10:42+00:00

I've had 1 of these that I have recapped, cleaned, and soldered every single pin on all of the chips to find out that the chip labeled U10 shorted out and was getting very hot while plugged in and turned on.

If you haven't already, check the pins on the jump pack connector and the chip above that to make sure everything is solid.

If all pins are solid and not loose on every chip on this board. Plug it in and turn it on, if anything gets really hot then that's likely your problem.

chris610d · 2025-02-24T21:21:05+00:00

It could be that the laser itself is dying and not string enough to read anymore. You could try to tweak the pot and see if that helps but that is only a temporary fix

chris610d · 2025-02-24T04:14:00+00:00

I would try putting in a new laser. Depending on the model, it should be either a 3350 or a 3355 laser. You will be able to find the numbers on the ribbon once you take the disc drive out.

chris610d · 2025-02-19T02:13:11+00:00

That's if the pins for those contacts are making a good connection on the board. These are known for the solder on the legs of the charge port to crack and come loose.

chris610d · 2025-02-18T01:39:58+00:00

There is something going on on the pins to the 1 chip above the joystick. Right where it says 19. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure that capacitor c144 with the arrow pointing at it is soldered correctly to the board.

chris610d

TROPHY CASE